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You Can't Get Lost in Venice By
Arnie Greenberg They say that all roads lead to Rome, but in Venice all roads lead to Pizzala Roma or Piazza San Marco. In a city without roads as we know them and where streets are often too narrow to walk two abreast, it is impossible to get lost. Since you can't drive into the city, you have to come in by city bus, train or tour bus. The tour busses are allowed to offload passengers at the docks of Tronchetto. From here on the outer canal you can follow an ocean-going liner on the Canale della Guidecca. It is the faster of the two entry points, but I prefer taking a regular bus from the mainland and coming down the slower Grand Canal. It's the stuff that dreams are made of. The trip costs a couple of Euros and is money well spent. It is cheaper to buy a return ticket. Your destination will be San Marco. With your ticket in hand you wait on the floating dock for the recommended vaporetto or boat bus. Enjoy the Sights Don't be dismayed by the crowds. Just watch your pockets. The correct number bus will arrive in a few minutes and on you go. You can sit in a glassed-in area and enjoy the sights from a warm enclosed space. You might do as I recommend, find a seat out of doors at the farthest point forward as possible. Here you will be able to see both sides as you criss-cross the canal to the various stops. On your left you'll see the modern white train station (Ferrovia). Get on here if you arrived by train. Then you will wend your way down the canal stopping on one side or the other. Early in the trip and on the same side of the canal, you will see the sign for the Ghetto. This area still thrives but dates back to 1516 when the Governor decreed that San Girolamo would become Europe's first ghetto. It's a short walk to the synagogues, souvenir shops and museum, but you can see that on the way back. Remember, I said you can't get lost. You continue down the Grand Canal with gondolas drifting by and wonderfully colorful buildings with Moorish architecture on either side. Watch for the buildings with decorations like inverted ice cream comes on the roof. These were once owned by sea captains. Venice was a major sea power. The ornate marble bridge is the famous Rialto Bridge, and when you get back to it, you'll find the stores on top of the bridge selling ornate Murano watches and gold jewelry. The watches make excellent gifts Attractive Restaurants along the Way But you're headed farther along, so you make note of the attractive restaurants and continue along. You'll see palaces and churches on both sides, and when you come to the next bridge, you'll know you're at the Accademia, Venice's special art gallery. But don't get off. From here it's only a few minutes to your final destination, San Marco. As the boat docks, you might notice Harry's Bar and American Grill. It's famous but expensive. Keep walking until you find yourself at the entrance to the great square. You'll be facing the Ducal Palace with the Basilica San Marco just beyond. You'll also see the modern bell tower. You have arrived into one of the most famous squares in the world. Look for the clock at the end of the square facing the water, and you'll see an arched entrance. Enter -- you are now on your own. You can go back and examine the Basilica, take a tour through the palace, or go back to the water and turn left. That first tiny bridge is The Bridge of Sighs. You will notice that it is connected to the back of the Ducal palace and there's a small window. It was through this window that condemned prisoners looked at Venice for the last time. As they passed the window on the way to the prison on the other side of the bridge, they would sigh. Hence the name. If you are hungry, wealthy to afford a $60-100 lunch and you can get a table, go into the Danieli Hotel next to the bridge and eat on their roof terrace. The view is out of this world. Wander around the Piazza If not, wander around the Piazza. Take pictures with the pigeons, then head inland through that archway I mentioned. Here you will find yourself in a warren of lanes, too small to call streets. At every intersection there will be a black-and-white sign saying Rialto or San Marco. Head through the maze, looking at the glass shops and always head for rialto. Once there, cross the bridge and walk through the fruit and vegetable market. It is in this area that Shakespeare set The Merchant of Venice. When you are ready to move on, follow the signs to P Roma. That's where you started. Eventually you will come to the Ghetto and the railway station (Ferrovia). Just beyond is Piazzale Roma, where you can take the bus back to your hotel or car park. Take the same bus out as you came in on. Remember, too, that if you bought a return ticket, you can forget my suggestions and just walk around. Then, when you are tired, you can get back on the vaporetto and return to Piazzale Roma. There are two words of advice. You will notice that I assumed you would be entering the islands by bus. Yes, Venice is on a series of islands. You can stay in Venice at a certain cost, or you can select a hotel in Mestre on the mainland. Take a hotel near the station. I recommend the Plaza or Best Western. You'll need a reservation during the tourist months. Both are on the number 2 bus line and only a causeway from Piazzela Roma, where the boat takes you into the most mysterious and exciting city in Europe. There is no other like it. The Famous Carnival of Venice The second suggestion depends on when you are in Venice. In February, the famous Carnival of Venice begins. If you can be there at carnival time, you will see one of the most exciting costumes, parades and shows imaginable. The making of masks is an industry. You might want to bring one home no matter when you go.
(Two costumed individuals at the Carnival of Venice) It's a complicated maze that might frighten the inexperienced traveler. But you just have to read the signs. Or, you can ask directions. Ask for Rialto or San Marco or Piazzale Roma. Venitians are always willing to help. And if nothing else succeeds, you can always take a gondola or a water taxi and return in luxury. Ask the price in advance. This is an expensive city for transportation.
Best Western Hotel Bologna facing the Mestre RR station, Tel: 41 93 10 00 Hotel Sirio (farther into town) Tel: 41 98 40 22 All three hotels are on the same bus line.
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