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Tuscany in Summer: By
Arnie Greenberg (Above, the enchanting chianti landscape of Tuscany. Italian Government Tourist Office photo) If you're looking for a holiday that has it all, I suggest a trip to Tuscany, a magical world, which, for me, conjures up memories of hill villages, mists rising over gentle wine valleys, and major centers that offer all you would hope for…and much more. Tuscany, or Toscana, as it is known in Italian, is a vast section of central Italy, where one can stay in a villa, a farmhouse, a local inn, or any of hundreds of hotels. Each will offer you its own personality, and you will soon know what 'pride' is all about.
(A hilltop view of Florence in all its glorious beauty. You can set out on a visit to San Gimignano from Florence. Italian Government Tourist Office photo) And, yes, they do have so much to be proud about...from the historic old capital at Lucca, to the larger cities of Florence and Siena, and the tiny towns perched precariously atop verdant hills. The colors alone conjure up feelings of relaxation, with yellows, soft pinks and a variety of grays. It is Old-World Europe, preserved in its own traditional way, with stucco and paint, flower boxes and vines. Cattle graze on miles of rolling hills, men toil to produce oil from the lush olive trees, wine from famous vineyards, along with cherries and mushrooms and some of the best hams and cheeses in the world.
(The colors of Tuscany alone conjure up feelings of relaxation...Italian Government Tourist Office photo) Tuscany has been discovered and is crowded, but there's always a new road to discover, a new hamlet or a shop that offers traditional Tuscan foods. You may even be tempted to try the wild boar. In Siena there are wild boar for sale everywhere.
(Enjoy the traditional foods of Tuscany. Italian Government Tourist Office photo) You
can also find great glass objets d'art, ceramics, fruit and silver. San
Gimignano, possibly Tuscany's most lovely city, is located between Florence and
Siena. It is off to the west and away from the main roads, but people find it,
and, of course, the rewards are worth the effort.
(Before leaving Florence, visit the Church of Santa Maria Novella, with its geometrically perfect design. Italian Government Tourist Office photo) From Florence, drive south to Poggibonsi, a good town to stop for lunch or gas but otherwise rather nondescript. There is a reasonable hotel on the main street, but I would choose to return to Florence after San Gimignano or stay near the town at one of the many farmhouses that offer pools, wine tasting and beautiful properties for the kids to frolic. From the south you turn west at Colle Val D'elsa. The road climbs through gentle turns, and in a few minutes you are in the city parking area. There are no cars in San Gimignano, except for those of the residents. If you have a hotel or private accommodation, you can get permission to drive into the city only to load and unload. But you wouldn't want to drive here. It's a walking city. As you approach the city, you will see a mini-New York in the distance. Don't be fooled. In the middle of Chianti fields, you'll see a cluster of what appear to be skyscrapers, but the eye is playing tricks on you. What you see is a cluster of buildings high on a hill with very high towers.
(The eye is simply playing tricks on you because what appear to be skyscrapers are simply San Gimignano's cluster of buildings with high towers near chianti fields) San Gimignano is a relatively small place. It stands 334 meters above sea level on the site of a small Etruscan settlement dating back to the Hellenistic period in the third and second centuries B.C. Its present history dates from the 10th century. San Gimignano became a free town in 1199, when it threw off the feudal ties of the Bishop of Volterra and grew rapidly. Like many towns in the region, there was internal strife between the Guelphs and the Ghibellins. The towers you will see are a reminder of the days when citizens built them as part of protection from hostile factions. These give the town a sense of beauty that grew into a successful economic and cultural center. The original 72 towers have dwindled to 14, not because it was ever attacked, but due to earthquakes and neglect. But from afar or from atop a tower, the view is awesome. You walk through the city gate and up the gentle Via San Giovanni. The shops on either side sell everything from art and ceramics to the usual postcards and simple souvenirs. At the top of the street you are on the Piazza Cisterna, which you will know from the steel well, once important as a source of drinking water. On you immediate right you'll find the best ice cream in town. If you see an opening on the right as you climb to the piazza, go in and enjoy the view of the valley below. Linger in the pizza over a cooling ice cream or light lunch, then continue to the Piazza Duomo and the courtyard beside it. There you will find the tourist information office, where you can pick up a city map. The duomo also houses a museum of frescos worth seeing. Near the entrance there are often musicians playing tunes away from the turmoil of the busy streets. They usually sell CD's, which I always buy as a reminder of the musical quality of this hill town. It is at this point I am always reminded of the film Tea With Mussolini, which was shot all around and inside the imposing cathedral. From here you can continue down Via San Matteo or through the parkland to the right, where there is a 360-degree lookout high above the valley and where you can see most of the towers. You can pay to climb a tower, too. If you are up to it, it is a rewarding experience.
(What a magnificent view of the landscape you enjoy from one of San Gimignano's towers! Italian Government Tourist Office photo) San Gimignano can be visited in half a day or you can linger longer. The best reason to stay is that by sunset the tour busses are gone and the city at night is all yours. Silence descends and a different charm moves in. On the way back to the bus, you go out along the same street. You'll see more of the same wares in the stores as you descend, and if you look closely, you may see something new and exciting. My last purchase was tiny liqueur glasses with very small glass fruit imbedded in the indented side. I often think of this sensual city, now a UNESCO special place, when I have a drink from these glasses. If you stay longer than a few hours, try the charming Casa Al Chino restaurant at Loc. Larniano. There is a recommended restaurant, Le Vecchie Mura, in the town center at 15 Via Piandornella. (vecchiemura@ tin.it).
(Le Vecchie Mura restaurant has a lovely terraced seating area with a view of the countryside)
(If you prefer, you may dine inside in Le Vecchie Mura's more rustic setting) Also of interest is the Museo Della Tortura, where instruments of torture from many centuries are on display. They can be found on Via del Castello 1-2. The Hotel La Cisterna on the square at number 23 is a small, superior class place housed in a 14th-century palace with Medieval & Renaissance artwork throughout. (Tel: 0577 940328). In
Siena I recommend Hotel Athena inside the old city wall, high above a peaceful
valley. The hotel is modern and only 500 meters from the beautiful duomo. It is
located at 55 Via Mascagni. If
you are staying in Florence, I'd try the surprisingly efficient, centrally located
Croce di Malta at Via della Scalla, 7, near the Piazza Novella. This was a 14th-century
convent, but it is now as modern as today. There is a wonderful swimming pool
in a shielded courtyard and a roof terrace with a wonderful view. It's all first
class. (Click below for more travel).
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