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Always Ready for a Tasty Pastry…Like Tarte Tatin By
Arnie Greenberg (Above, some tasty pastries as photographed by Arnie Greenberg at a pastry shop called Mouffe-Tarte, an obvious play on words because the shop is located on the rue Mouffetard, where one of many open-air Paris markets is held). If you have a sweet tooth like I do, then you'll want to read on. I have found over the years that many people look for those rich French pastries whether in France or at home. I grew up with a wonderful pastry shop just around the corner in Montreal, and now I seek out these shops on all my travels. I can often be seen photographing pastry shop windows or standing in the cold, drooling over the window displays. In large shops, I scour the aisles for those works of art, while my wife shops for mundane items like clothing, hats or can openers. There is a standing joke among the people who tour with us: as we walk through a town center, my wife will suddenly call out, "Look at that wonderful roof top!" or "Now that's a nice color for a balcony." At first I couldn't understand what she was doing. The building in question looked normal to me. After a while, I learned that she did that each time we passed a pastry shop, so that I would look away and not get distracted from the reason we had come to Europe. But it doesn't even have to be made of whipped cream, crème patissiere, or jelly. I have been known to satisfy my cravings with what the French call un sable, a large dry cookie that is closer to a sugar cookie or butter cookie. There's something about the texture -- I just can't get enough of it! For Pastry Lovers, France Is a Dream Come True So, traveling in France is a dream come true. There are pastry shops at almost every corner…and the window displays are unique, drawing you to them with their color and tasteful displays. Here one can find mille feuilles, popularly translated as '1000 leaves.' They are light, filled with whipped cream and not recommended for calorie counters. (There are many wonderful pastry shops in Paris...and throughout France).
There
are pastries called Charlotte Russe. I remember them as a kid. Of course, there
is nothing better than a hot coffee and a tarte almandine; besides, marzipan makes
me melt in a minute. In some cities, I know exactly where the best is. I normally don't tell people the locations, but I will make an exception today. Have you ever tasted Tarte Tatin? Well, I hadn't until recently…and now I'm hooked. Technically, you can liken it to upside-down cake, but it's better. Mademoiselle Tatin and the Young Gentleman They say that Tarte Tatin was invented in the middle of the 19th century, when Louis Napoleon (later Napoleon III) ruled France and a certain Monsieur Tatin had his daughter take over the kitchen of their French countryside hotel, famous for visiting hunters. Tatin's daughter wasn't very vigilant, but she was a great pastry chef and decided to cook a cake made of caramelized apples. She took a deep dish, filled it with about 150 g of butter and 1 kg of apples, placing them side-by-side. Then she set them on a low flame and let them caramelize. About now a handsome soldier came by, and Mademoiselle Tatin left the kitchen to flutter her eyes at the young visitor. When she returned, she realized that she had forgotten the dough, so she removed the apples and arranged a flaky pastry, returning it all to the oven. When she removed it, she placed a serving dish on the cooling mixture and turned it over. Voila! Tarte Tatin was thus invented. The apples were soaked in the natural caramel that resulted from the combination of cooked butter, melted sugar and apple juice. Thus, that special Tarte Tatin flavor. And if apples are not your favorite, you can try it with pears. It works for me. Good with Cider, White Bordeaux or Red Wine Tarte Tatin can be eaten hot or cold. I prefer it hot, but if it isn't, you can heat it in a low oven for a few minutes. Under no circumstances should you use a microwave. A nice cup of cider, a white Bordeaux or a light red wine go with it nicely. (Your Tarte Tatin will also go well with a white Bordeaux or a light red wine).
If you're in Paris, get over to the famous Maxim's on the Right Bank, near the Madelaine. I can't say who gave them the recipe, but they do a heavenly, though expensive, Tarte Tatin. I may not be an expert, but I know my Tarte Tatin. Try it…you'll love it. Tarte Tatin is also a specialty of Le Cheval Vert at 50, rue Francois-Miron in the 4th District. Tel: 42 71 15 01, and Le Saint Tropez at 11, rue Monge in the 5th. Tel: 43 54 30 50. Bon Appetit! (Click below for more travel).
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