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Taormina: A Haven for History, Beauty and Relaxation
(Above, the spectacular view from the rocky hillside as seen at the Baia Taormina Hotel & Spa) For me it was one of the most exciting towns I had ever visited, if only for the location and view. But once I started walking around, I realized that there is much to draw a visitor here, including food, theatre, ancient architecture, history and a proximity to other attractions. I first arrived in the region on the coast of Ionia in the ancient Greek port of Giardini Naxos. I was scouting the area for a tour I'd been thinking of. The Hellenia Yachting Hotel made my stay peaceful, especially with a terrace looking out to sea.
(Arnie began his exploration in the ancient Greek port of Giardini Naxos) It was a place to just relax, with its restaurants and craft shops along the beach. But when I looked at the panorama, my eye hit on a village that looked like it was perched on a mountaintop. Off I went, and when I got to the top I knew I had found the city whose attraction was universal. The trip to the top was by cable car, and what I found was a bustling city with some of the most incredible views. Below was Giardini Naxos and the coast. Here I could see Mount Etna always smoking and very much alive. I wandered to the edge of the city, where I found the 5,400-seat Greco-Roman theatre.
(The ancient Greek theatre) Much of it had crumbled over the years, but the spectator area and stage were rebuilt and I was in a 3rd-century creation and the second largest theatre of its kind in all of Sicily. It was here that modern theatre groups still performed Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripedes and the comedies of Aristophanes. Here I saw Taormina stone in 50 x 120-meter slabs, and I stood in an excavation that took 100,000 cubic meters of removed stone to create. In the main square, almost under the clock tower, I munched on Canoli and bargained with street painters. I walked around the public gardens that seemed to hang from the hill, and I visited some of the 18th- and 19th-century mansions. I glimpsed at the aristocratic Villa Ducal Taormina at 60, Leonardo da Vinci with the idea of staying there one day. I also visited Hotel Villa Carlotta on via Pirandello, 81. Both would be good choices. Then, at the far end of town, I found the Hotel Excelsior Palace and wandered around its terraced lawns to the very edge of the mountain, where people lolled around the manicured grounds and lovely swimming pool.
(The swimming pool at the Hotel Excelsior Palace)
Below
was the Bay of Naxos, where I was staying, and all around were almond trees, oranges,
and prickly pears. The property was superbly designed and was bordered by Greco-Roman
walls. Here, the locals would snorkel, scuba dive and go surfing. Sicily was apparently a fisherman's mecca, with giant tuna, sardines and swordfish serving the needs of the community. It was also a lemon-growing area, but you can add olives, peaches, oranges, mangoes, eggplants and almonds. We
chatted about food and the local favorites, like Arancini, a Sicilian rice dish
with parmesan, nutmeg, parsley, meat stock, onions, flour, eggs wine, grated bread
and of course, olive oil. He agreed that the best time to go was in April or May, before it was too hot. One might become interested in the history going back to 400 BC, but I preferred to just sip my wine, eat the local delicacies, visit the theatre, the squares and beautiful staircased-streets. Taormina is a haven for those of you not in a hurry, and if you need some exercise, there's a beautiful 18-hole golf course only minutes away. I knew I would return one day and I did. Excelsior Palace Hotel 8, Via Toselli, Taormina. Visit www.excelsiorpalacetaormina.it Baia
Taormina Hotel & Spa. Visit www.baiataormina.com
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