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Italian Odyssey Party IV: On to Sorrento By
Arnie Greenberg May on the coast is sunny and cool. We head out early from the birthplace of Nero, bound for Sorrento. But there is much to see on the way. Filling our small tank with about $55 worth of gasoline is an eye opener -- driving here is a rich man's pastime. We leave behind the bars and beach zone, where garish neon signs offer Peter Pan Beach, Red Zone, Cuba Libra and Paradise. There are a number of ways to see the land south of Anzio and Nettuno. A stop at the American Cemetery in Nettundo is an eye-opener. Again, we are moved by the attention to cleanliness paid to the Allied dead. The white crosses gleam in the sun. Silence abounds, as it should. Inland at Latina we can head south or cross the Appian Way through peaceful farmland and sleepy villages. The fabled Appian Way, La via Appia, dating back to 312 BC, took travelers from Rome to Brindisi. It is possible to walk along stretches of the preserved middle imperial age foundations, where fortifications once blocked the way. We follow this route at a speed outdoing the ancient Romans and in an hour or so we enter Terracina. We are on the Gulf of Terracina driving along the Lido Di Fondi. The road is higher off the sea and more winding, but extremely visual as ferries glide across the sparkling water.
(The roads in this part of Italy are sometimes higher off the sea and more winding, but extremely visual...) Sperlonga sits atop a rocky spur and reminds one of a cubist painting depicting ancient squared stone similar to the Bizantine walls of nearby Gaeta. Originally the site of an imperial villa, after Rome's start of decline the spur gave refuge to fishermen, peasants and Benedictine monks from the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. Sperlonga became part of the dukedom of Gaeta. We pass the Grotto of Tiberius, which dates back to 184 BC, and head for more mountainous Formio. Gaeta offers a visit to a medieval stronghold on the way to the natural port of Roman Formia. From here, the coast boasts the remains of once comfortable villas with its Bourbon private boat sheds.
(Peaceful Gaeta, lying on the coastal road, offers a glimpse of a medieval stronghold on the way to the natural port of Roman Formia) The road continues to Naples, but our destination is the Abbey at Monte Casino north past the Autostrada. The voyage is not long and again through pleasant farmland. Nearer to Cassino the traffic gets heavy. We are here to see the site where the Allies bombarded a mountaintop installation that became one of the great battles of WWII. Cassino was an attempt that lasted weeks. It was tied to the invasion of Anzio, as the allies tried to draw away troops defending the beaches. Shelling from cannon and airplanes took its toll on both sides. What was left of much of the area was rubble and death. It was part
of the Allied push to Rome finally taken in June 1944. Time to Head South to Naples But it's time to head south towards Naples. The main Autostrada saves time and offers bathrooms and quick places for lunch. But wait. This is the area of marinated fried fish, and the basis of the offerings is a throwback to the chefs who surrounded Catherine of Medici. Before we get to Naples, we stop for a lunch of river fish and mountain spinach complete with excellent cappuccino grape jam tarts and chocolate fruit cake. Here we can see historical Caserta. The palace here reminds one of Versailles. Built in a neo-classical style for the Neapolitan Bourbons as a show place, it contains 1,200 rooms and 34 staircases, 1,800 windows and four courtyards. It is furnished with what royalty would expect, but it's the beauty of the park that attracts me with pools, cascades and fountains.
(The dream-like nymph lake with its small temple embellishes the grounds of the magnificent palace at Caserta) It is dream-like with giant foliage, rustic buildings and waterways, not to mention an English garden with hidden paths and rose arbors. This is one of the finest gardens in Italy, and for those who find it hard to walk, there's a comfortable minibus to escort you. I chose to walk. Naples: The Fabled City A word about Naples. This is a fabled city that once was the dream city of Italy. "See Naples and die," they said. While it is being cleaned up and revitalized, it is not a great tourist attraction unless you are there to see Vesuvius, Pompeii or Herculaneum. Vesuvius dominated the background. It's easy to see where the main peaks were blown away by the great volcanic eruption of 79 AD. At this time, the city of Pompeii with 20, 000 inhabitants was covered with ash and ceased to exist. The city and its people were mummified. That's the bad news.
(Boats anchored in the port of the fabled city of Naples) The good news is that the preservation captured a moment in history. We were able, in recent years, to recapture Pompeii from the ashes. Human beings in their dying positions with their hands shielding their eyes were recreated for us to learn of the past. We walked through residential and commercial areas and stood in the recreated Roman Forum, akin to the Greek Agora. The two hours walking through the streets is a lesson in history. A chance to see the grand theatre is a reward unto itself. It is only partially dug out, but of interest nevertheless. On Our Way to Sorrento Then, after a cool drink at the exit, it's time to continue along the coast, past the seductive town of Castellamarre and the cliff towns that end in underrated Sorrento.
(Arnie Greenberg enjoyed the delights of a stay in Sorrento: "I first came to Sorrento years ago on my way back from Capri") I first came to Sorrento years ago on my way back from Capri. On this trip I stayed in this cliffside city three times on my way in and out. It really captured me. The two hotels high above the sea offered first-class scenery and captivating views. The Riviera Hotel faces the sea and the Hotel Cappodimonti literally hangs from the hills just at the far end of town. From my balcony I felt like I was floating over the city, with Sorrento below and both Vesuvius and Capri in the distance.
(The Hotel Riviera hangs from the hills -- what a thrilling site to behold and what a thrilling view from the hotel side!) Sorrento is a mid-sized town of restaurants, hotels, narrow-lane shopping, theatres, parks and some of the best food I've ever eaten. Everything seems made with eggplant. Lemon is king and is grown here year round under protective netting to a size of a baby's head. Seafood, too, dominates. but you cannot have a meal without a taste of the gelato. Ice cream in Sorrento is the dream of everyone who is lucky enough to visit. Here, too, you are a ferry ride away from Capri and about an hour's drive along the famous Mali drive. These are the great drawing cards of southern Italy. But we'll postpone our odyssey for another day. Grand
Hotel Riviera 4*
(A private elevator at the Hotel Riviera lowers guests through rocks to a private beach) The seawater swimming pool, solarium and garden terraces offer wonderful views in a modern, elegant and air-conditioned atmosphere. The rooms are spacious and the food and service are first class.
(Relax by the pool and take in the spectacular views of the sea at the Hotel Riviera)
Contact
info@hotelriviera.com or visit www.hotelriviera.com (Click below for more travel stories!)
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