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Surprising Singapore: Garden City of the East By
Arnie Greenberg (Pictured above, Arnie and his wife Dana in front of Raffles). If you feel you've missed out on celebrating the Birthday of the Monkey God or Dragon Boat Festival or perhaps the Festival of the Hungry Ghosts and the Mooncake Festival, I'll tell you how to make up for it. In a word, the answer is Singapore. You may be surprised when you first arrive. The city is large, modern and spotless. It's like no other place in the world. You can be fined for throwing a cigarette butt in the street or spitting out your gum. You can be fined for jay walking. That may also apply to other cities, but in sunny Singapore they take it very seriously. In a city of three million prosperous natives, million dollar condos are considered cheap, and Singapore boasts the highest per capita consumption of Mercedes Benz cars. Here you can shop till you drop, and when natives are not shopping, they're eating. The number of restaurants is staggering. There is an eclectic blend of Chinese, Malay, Indian, and Western-style restaurants. Many are in the conservative areas like Tanjong Pagar, Boat Quay and Clarke Quay. There are ships arriving daily from all over the world, and the airport, like the rest of the city, is first class. Even the skyscrapers rival those in other cities in Asia and America. Modernity is the key, and while ancient daching scales are still used to calculate weight and price of pearls, the computers are king in commercial centers. This independent entity covers over 250 square miles and owes its design and modernity to two individuals. The first was Sir Stamford Raffles, its founder, who bought the island from its Malay ruler in 1819 in order to set up a trading post. His free port rapidly grew on the east-west trading routes. It is no longer a sleepy village. After independence in 1965, the driving force behind Singapore's success was Lee Kuan Yew, who, as Prime Minister until 1990, led the people from rural slumber to a high-tech awakening. This
grandson of a Chinese coolie held a double degree in law from Cambridge University
and created a community with a standard of He and Raffles created a well-ordered society with religious and racial tolerance. The city is a true 'garden' with three million people of all cultures. While Malay is the official language, English is heard almost everywhere. Service is 'efficient' and everything works, even the police, so watch out for that cigarette or gum. That applies to buses, elevators, theatres and shopping centers, or air-conditioned restaurants. And speaking of theatres, Western entertainment is very much alive here. People like Pavarotti, Simon & Garfunkel, Michael Jackson, Elton John, and Eric Clapton have performed to great crowds. Cats, Les Miserables and Evita played to rave reviews. My choice was a local show with Malay dancers and traditional music. Some of the hotels offer this as dinner entertainment, and the food is memorable. There are things to see and do, including such exotic escapes as a visit to the Reptile Park, Night Safari, Crocodilanium, Underwater World or impressive Zoo. There is even an exotic Botanical Garden. Add to this the well-trimmed golf courses and nearby beaches -- and you have a holiday for the whole family. Singapore is in a 'growth triangle' linked to Johur state in Malaysia and Riau islands in Indonesia. While the temperature is generally between 75 and 88 F, I found it humid if not hot, but remember it is almost on the equator. July
and August are the warmest months. Rainfall is most abundant from November to
January. Light summer wear is most practical. It is 16 hours ahead of Pacific
Coast time. My knowledge of Singapore had to do with stories I had heard about the local gentry sitting around the Raffles Hotel sipping Singapore Slings while the Japanese closed in on them in World War II. I could picture the British gentry in huge wicker chairs, discussing the invasion under slow moving ceiling fans. Of course, I headed to Raffles and the famous "Long Bar" for my over-priced Singapore Sling. At
almost $20 per drink, one can imagine the profit when the drink is mostly juice,
and they sell an average of 1,000 per day. The mixture comes from a tap, pre-prepared
to formula. It was a fun experience, though not because of the drinks. On the bar were large baskets of peanuts in the shell. This is the only place in Singapore that you are 'allowed' to throw the shells on the floor. Because it's a no-no in the rest of the city, it was a greater pleasure for me. The place was crowded, and it was cool. I could relate to it as a place I knew from history. The Long Bar is in the Raffles Hotel at #1 Beach Road. It's part of a first-class hotel with 104 suites, 12 restaurants and bars offering Asian and local food. Other facilities include a health club, ballroom and shopping arcade. It's pricey, but a different experience. If the $15 passenger service charge is not incorporated into your air ticket, you will be required to pay it during check-in. Enjoy your stay. Visit Raffles and watch those cigarette butts. First offenders may be fined up to $1,000. More information about Singapore is available at www.visitsingapore.com, the official Singapore government tourism site. (Click below for more travel).
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