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A Visit to Romantic Santorini By
Arnie Greenberg I recently read an article about the 50 most romantic places to visit. The Greek island of Thera, or Santorini, was high on the list. Let me tell you why I agree. First of all, there are few places more dramatic to approach. I came by boat, and the sight of whitewashed villages hanging on cliffs far above the sea is breathtaking. Add the sunshine, the perfect temperature, the ambiance, the people and the tourist attractions…and you have one of the most spectacular places to spend your vacation. Here, history melds with the culture. We know from the archeological sites that people lived here during the Bronze Age and the Neolithic era. People lived near the Red Beach in the south from 3600 B.C. near Akrotiri, from which the name Thera derives. One can call Akrotiri the prehistoric Pompeii of the region. The earliest name was Strongili, which means round. It was the victim of a huge earthquake over 3,000 years ago. The explosion created monstrous waves, which hit as far as Crete. As a result, part of the original island was destroyed. We read about the connection between this event and the lost city of Atlantis. The remaining islands were inhabited by Phoenicians and were the center of trade with people from Greece to Asia Minor. Even the Turks occupied the islands until the Greeks took over in the 19th century. About 14,000 people live there today. The island occupies only 73 square miles with 13 tiny villages, vineyards, sandy beaches, excellent restaurants, spectacular views and comfortable hotels. It is 63 nautical miles north of Crete. Today, this wonderful Greek island boasts deep waters for visiting cruise ships, exceptional vistas, and almost-perfect weather, interesting food, entertainment, crafts and festivals. Even the Santorini volcano is a favorite attraction. There are daily excursions that you will long remember. The price is right, too, so you can enjoy the perfect holiday. I got off the boat and headed for the modern train-like lift that would take me to the dizzying top. Then I spotted the sign for the traditional donkey ride. It was more primitive and harder on the back, but I decided that I had to do it or always regret it. I paid the few Euros and was suddenly seated on a donkey saddle. A few "hahas" from the handler and a crack of a stick on a rock and the team of donkeys lurched forward up what can be described as a zigzag set of elongated stairs. The surprise came when the steel-clad donkeys kept slipping on the stones. I held on for dear life, and I kept looking up to see how far I had to climb, but the top never seemed to get nearer. The donkeys complained noisily but pushed ever upward. After 11 of the longest minutes of my life, we reached the summit. I quickly got off the beast and headed for a solid chair. Once at the top, I realized that I would soon recover, and my reward was one of the most spectacular views of the circle of islands on the peaceful sea. I soon forgot about my aching back and walked as close to the edge as I could, peered into shops, and took in the sights of the village of Fira. Coffee at a restaurant perched on the edge was not to be believed. The chief chef and his disciplined staff would see me again. The restaurant, Rastoni, as it is called, offers a wonderful view of the Caldera with its spectacular sunsets. I would return later to enjoy the Mediterranean flavors below on a white terrace of the restaurant Selene, while a wedding party danced to Greek music. I later found out that Santorini was a popular spot for a wedding. A member of the wedding party gestured to me to join the celebration. I did and was introduced to warm people and a wonderful array of local foods and wines. I found out that Selene was the only restaurant on the island to offer cooking lessons. Here one can try their local yellow fava, pea puree, eggplant, watermelon, pistachios, wild rabbit, fish with capers, and salads with fresh goat cheese. Tsikoudia, their local white wine, is not to be missed. There are over 60 brands to try. The figs were excellent and the grapes just right. The cluster of buildings go back to the days when fear of raids by pirates or enemies forced the inhabitants to build their homes far from the sea on dizzying heights. Hill villages in clusters abound on the Islands. This arrangement offered cool breezes and protection from winter winds and a communal spirit that still exists. The people I met were proud and hard working. They have created their own way of life around communal churches, concert halls, restaurants and festivals. A yearly jazz festival in Santorini is famous. All too soon it was time to leave. I chose the comfortable railway to go down the sharp slope. I turned back to see the white buildings facing the setting sun. As I drifted out to sea, I stood on the deck watching the ancient cliffs disappear. I knew then that someday soon I would return, drawn by my sense of romance. Selene Restaurant (Fira-Santorini). Call for reservations: 30 28 6022249. Fax: 30 28 6023495. Email: selenegr@otnet.gr For general information about tourism in Greece, visit: www.gnto.gr
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