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From Enchiladas to Empinatas, the Food Is Great in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico By
Arnie Greenberg It's not the largest city in Mexico, but it certainly has a plethora of excellent restaurants to choose from. On our first night in San Miguel de Allende we came across a patio restaurant near the market that offered an entrée, main course and two margaritas for a grand sum of $11 for two people. I knew I was going to love my stay in San Miguel, but while the prices around town ended up higher, they were still reasonable considering the food and service we encountered. I'll have to go back and try the ones I missed, but here are some you should know about. If you can think of others you want to mention --and there are many -- please let me know. Some are casual bistros, while others are more sophisticated. It's always a matter of taste, mood and level of sophistication. But don't be fooled. Some of the places I mention are simple from the outside. It's what they put on the plate that matters.
(Guacamole-- always a a tasty snack) Eating in Mexico is a fine old tradition where food is served in a mix of color and flavor. There is an early native influence with turkey, avocado, yams, guava, papaya and chocolate. There is also a French influence, as the French brought the idea of haute cuisine after 1860, and of course, there is the Spanish influence with imported livestock, rice, wheat, apples and oranges, carrots, potatoes, garlic, cinnamon, oregano and black pepper. It's a strong foundation to build on and today we enjoy a mouth-watering and uniquely Mexican cuisine. Mexico is a feast for the stomach and the eyes. It can also be a state of mind. But you can get a club sandwich, hotdog or pancakes. There's even an ice cream parlor facing the Jardin called Dolphy and the ever present Dunkin Donuts. Who coukd ask for more? Patio restaurants Bugambilia Excellent and authentic award-winning Mexican food since 1945 in a relaxing patio protected by the rain. The staff is friendly, and the evening guitar music creates a warm atmosphere. You might be greeted by one of the two founding sisters.
(Bugambilia offers rewarding food in a patio protected from the rain) Here you'll find long menus delicious and attractive food at bargain prices. I suggest the 'Chiles en Nogadas', green pimentos, chopped beef, almonds…the color of the Mexican flag… 152 0127. Hidalgo #42 Casa Payo This is a multi-level charming patio and sports bar called Manolos with two big screens, a pool table and dart board. You can't go wrong here at lunch or later. We had an Argentine-style steak dinner here that was perfectly prepared and were invited to return a few days later to watch the Superbowl. Zacateros #26 For a while on the roof terrace I forgot I was in Mexico, as at least a hundred diners passed the time eating burgers and fries while they cheered for their team. It might have been one of the best burgers I ever ate, certainly the largest. We had live background music by a singer-guitar player but not during the football game. Tel. (415) 152 7277 www.casapayo.com for more information or reservations. El Correo This international restaurant was a little more sophisticated with a huge menu including Mexican and International food. Excellent service but a little pricey. Also an excellent international wine list. Tel: 152 4951. Correo #23 El Pegaso A great choice but no true atmosphere here. Still a great choice…often crowded, but not long to wait. In the 'centro' a block from La Jardin, we came across a very inauspicious building that housed El Pegaso (Pegasus). We went here three times in a month and had delicious soups and salads prepared at our table by Fernando and found ourselves in the meeting place of many Expats. One even invited us to play bridge with his friends. This is a simple eatery on a busy corner with tin figurines decorating the walls. It is unpretentious and delicious. They really know how to make you feel at home. The food is basically Mexican and its important to note that they close on Sundays. Call 152 1351 or 155 7611.Corregidora # 6
(Arnie and wife Dana at Ole Ole Bistro)
Ole Ole Ole Ole Bistro cafe is a great place for lunch. It's a little out of the loop, as they say, and while its walls are covered with bullfighting scenes, it is a little "tired" or worn. But it is colorful and has the flavor of brave bulls (although stuffed). The fajitas are wonderful and filling. I ordered mine with chicken, but you can try ostrich, I'm told. They offered free chips and two different salsas for those who don't like it too hot. Even the napkins and tablecloths were bright and cheerful. At lunch time it was not crowded. Loreta # 66 Ten Ten Pie
Ten
Ten Pie Cuna de Allende at Cuadrante (Hospicio). Tia Lucas Restaurant-Bar Jazz Tia Lucas Restaurant-Bar Jazz for late-nighters. Patio ambiance with overhanging trees and tepid service for moderate prices. You watch them prepare your salad, which is slow but fun.You may need reservations, as the steak and jazz lovers come early and stay late. Convivial Maitre D' Max Altamirano will welcome you and make you feel at home. The place is across from the theatre at #130 Mesones. For more information go to www.travelbymexico.com or call 415 152 4996 Bagel Cafe Bagel Café for those of you who want a breakfast like Mama makes. A plain eating place near El Jardin with good service and great coffee. We were lucky enough to meet Jennifer Butz , one of the owners, who spotted us as tourists and engaged us in a very warm and informative conversation. What a great way to start the day. #19 Correo Tel 415 154 6524
HOTELS Casa Rosada Hotel Cuna de Allende #12 This is a small but typically Mexican Hotel with luxuriously decorated lobby ceiling and patio dining. Only a few steps fropm La Jardin staying here affords the visitor with a location in the heart of the action. While the rooms are a bit pricey for the average tourist, those who are willing t pat about $200 dollars plus 17% tax for a good size luxurious room or $310 to $478 for a master suite will be treated to San Miguel luxury accomodations,Tel 52 415 152 8123. www.casarosadahotel.com Hotel Villa Jacaranda Hotel Villa Jacaranda #53 Adama next to Parc Jaurez, modern, upscale rooms and dining in beautiful garden setting. www.villajacaranda.com
(The Hotel Villa Jacaranda offers dining in a lovely garden setting)
Posada La Ermita Near the Miramar…moderate pricing. A difficult walk from town, but bus or taxi stops at the door. Beautiful hillside location with a spectacular view of the town below, day or night. #64 Pedro Vargas Tel 152 0777
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