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Mozart's Salzburg and the Sounds of Music By
Arnie Greenberg (The colorful birthplace, above, of Mozart at Number 9 on busy Getreidegasse) Here is a city that was founded on salt being mined in the region and is now a popular resort and historic center. Left mostly untouched by war, you can walk through the narrow streets and impressive squares of the town that gave birth to Mozart. Today, his memory lives on in the Mirabell Palace, where he performed and in the house where he was born. See it from the fortress high above the old city. It is a memorable sight.... Imagine a city built on a rushing river, bedecked with colorful buildings in the shadows of snow-capped mountains and crowned by a massive fortress. Imagine a city that boasts Mozart as a native son, where you can visit the home of his birth and the home of his youth. Imagine a city where, in late June, 181 musical events are staged, including 44 operas, 73 concerts and 64 plays and readings. And don't forget to include in this an impressive list of shows and concerts that extend the year round. This is Salzburg, a perfect holiday city with warmth, visual delights and music, music, music. It may be an over-used expression, but it's true that Salzburg is "a special place." Take a Walk to the Mirabell Gardens Just a walk among the flowers and statues of the Mirabell Gardens or the baroque splendor of the Mirabell Palace makes it worthwhile. Inside there's a monumental staircase, decorated by sculptures and an imposing marble hall, where a young Mozart captivated audiences with his performances. This same hall is now a desired place for weddings. Nearby is the Makartplatz, the Landestheatre, the marionette theatre, and the "Dancing Master's House," the residence at Number 8, where the young composer lived from 1773 to 1780. Nearby, at St. Sebastian's Church Cemetery, you can see where many important Salzburgers are buried, including Mozart's wife, Constanze, and Leopold, the composer's father. It is near here that two of my favorite restaurants are found. One is the modern but unobtrusive Italian eatery called Waterfall, where water trickles along the sides of the restaurant's aisles. Here you can have most meat dishes and many types of pasta. It is modern, pleasant, and the service is excellent. Try the Tafelspits at the Hotel Restaurant Stadtkrug A few doors away at Number 20 is the simple but typically Austrian Hotel Restaurant Stadtkrug in a building going back centuries. Here the ambiance is warm and the fare typical. If you want to taste the traditional foods of the region, try Stadtkrug. The tafelspits (boiled beat) is superb. It was the favorite of Franz Joseph, so it can't be bad. Local wines are a treat, or you can top it off with a magical soufflé. You might even want to stay there, since on the left as you enter you are in the hotel lobby. Prices differ by season, but singles start at 79 Euros and doubles at 119 Euros per room. There are even four-person apartments costing between 317 and 367 Euros per night. You may also choose to eat on the roof terrace with its unbeatable view. Walk down to the bottom of Linzer Gasse. I always pause here to watch children running through the gushing waters of the underground fountain. One never knows when the pressure will change; the children usually come out drenched, but happy. A Visit to the Old Town Hall and Mozart's Birthplace Across the River Salzach via the Staatsbrucke Bridge, you come to the old town hall (circa 1407) and the busy and old market place. Here the colorful old houses are again reminders of Mozart, since he was born at Number 9 on busy Getreidegasse in 1756. It is a traditional Salzburg dwelling of the period and now serves as a museum with portraits, letters, music, instruments and personal objects belonging to the child on view. The shops along both sides boast fancy wrought-iron signs showing visually what is sold inside. Across Marketplatz, you'll see Ludwig Schwanthaler's exciting statue of Mozart. From here it is a short walk to the oldest Austrian funicular cable-car railroad, originally built in 1892, which will whisk you silently to the summet of Monchsberg Mountain and the formidable Hehensalzburg Fortress. This is the largest citadel in Central Europe, dating from 1077. The views of old Salzburg are impressive, as is the Fortress Museum with its exhibit of military weaponry. You can sit at an open terrace and enjoy the view as well as the cold local beer. There's another beer cellar at the base of the mountain. Steigl's is exciting. Ask anyone for directions when you get back to the bottom. Enter the St. Peter's Cemetery, considered among the most beautiful in the world. It was here that some of the fight scenes from the Sound of Music were filmed. Mozart's sister Nannerl is buried here. Look up at the catacombs built into the rock face of Monchsberg. Salzburg Boasts Summer Festivals Salzburg
boasts a summer festival, the Whitsun Concerts, Mozart Week and Salzburg Cultural
Days. There are palace concerts, fortress concerts, church concerts, and more.
Music is king here. You can also enjoy jazz, pop and 'rock and roll,' or even contemporary theatre, dance and music. There are open-air rock concerts that draw thousands. (Find out about Salzburg's autumn season of cool jazz below). The city is also surrounded by wonderful palaces like Hellbrunn, the one built to serve the city's Prince Archbishop Markus Sittikus von Hohenems (1612-1619). Your cultural appetite will be satisfied in this beautiful old capital. Enjoy imposing Klessheim Palace, built in the early 18th century and now the Salzburg Casino, or Leopoldskron dating from 1744 and set on a beautiful lake. The façade was represented as the home of the Trapp family in the popular movie. (Smile...Arnie puts his own face up against the carved tree statue of faces done by a local carver in the Lake District at St. Wolfegang).
Even the countryside draws visitors. It is pastoral, serene and perfect for walking, climbing and cycling. Visit mighty Grossglockner if you want true alpine peaks and wildly romantic gorges. The Lake District has been a favorite holiday spot for all, including Franz Joseph. Our lunch at St. Wolfgang was memorable with a side trip to Lake Fuschl. Here the activity is paragliding, skiing and swimming. The location, only a few hours from Vienna, is ideal for a break from the throngs. Visit slowly. Take along your cameras or sketch pads and make enough time to enjoy one of the most delightful towns and regions of Europe. IF
YOU GO… Steigl's Brauwelt: www.stiegl.co.at Hotel Restaurant Stadtkrug: www.stadtkrug.at Sound of Music Show: www.salzburginfo.at/SoundofAustria (Click
below for more travel).
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