|
(Romantic Quebec City, pictured above with the Hotel Chateau Frontenac and mighty St. Lawrence River in the background, is enveloped in a blanket of snow. A virtual winter wonderland, Quebec City draws visitors to its seasonal charms. The next Quebec Carnaval will be held from February 1 -- 17, 2008) By George Medovoy, Editor When it comes to winter fun, Quebec City, this cradle of French civilization in North America, has the market cornered. My wife and I experienced Quebec City in winter for the first time...and enjoyed it immensely.
(Step into one of Quebec City's many quaint restaurants and bistros and warm yourself up with a bowl of French onion soup) Visiting this time for "Carnaval," the world's biggest winter celebration, everything we once knew under a summer sky - the Old World charm of quaint little streets and bistros, art galleries, and the rich history of New France - all of that was transformed by nature into a veritable winter wonderland. Romance and Adventure Snow that covered the city's colorful mansard roofs and ice flows that slowed the mighty St. Lawrence River added a certain romance and adventure to the city's scenic appeal.
(The friendly mascot of Quebec City's Carnaval is a jolly fellow named Bonhomme Carnaval) They've held Carnaval since 1894; the next Carnaval will be held from February 1 --1, 2008. And remember, too that 2008 is the 400th Anniversary of Québec. At last year's event, reminders were everywhere of Carnaval's mascot, a big-hearted snowman named Bonhomme Carnaval, whose ice castle stands across the street from parliament. Winter Charms Not Short-Lived Winter up here is never a short-lived affair, so there's plenty of time to enjoy Quebec's ubiquitous winter charms.
(There's plenty of winter fun in and around Quebec City) And you'll find nothing more enjoyable than ice skating on one of the city's outdoor rinks or cross-country skiing on the Plains of Abraham, a magnificent urban park overlooking the St. Lawrence River that's within walking distance from cafes, jazz clubs, and restaurants, where you can enjoy a Quebec favorite of "steak frites" (steak and French fries). In case you're wondering, this Abraham bears no relation to the great Biblical figure of the same name. This particular fellow was a simple farmer who would bring his cattle here to graze. But the plains, known today as National Battlefields Park, took on historic proportions in 1759, when the British under General Wolfe laid siege to the city and, with their superior naval craft and artillery, defeated French forces under General Montcalm. There's
even a bit of American history involved here because the fortifications - about
a three-mile defensive belt around the old part of town -- were meant to protect
it from attack by the Americans.
(Carving ice sculptures is a popular activity during the winter Carnaval in Quebec City) And with history at practically at every turn, it is also a UNESCO "World Heritage Treasure." Are You Planning a Summer Visit? If you visit in summer, the grassy Plains of Abraham make the perfect location for picnics while listening to concerts or foot-stomping, hand-clapping Quebecois fiddle music, whose lineage dates back to 17th-century Scottish and Irish influences, which now seem frozen in time. Nearby
is one of Quebec's greatest historic treasures, Place-Royale, the birthplace of
French civilization in North America. A magnificent fresco painted on the side of one of the buildings in Place-Royale recalls Quebec's historic figures. Explore the City On Foot Close
by, the Quartier Petit-Champlain is another memorable part of the city perfect,
like so much here, for exploring on foot.
(A funicular at the end of this little street takes you up to the magnificent Hotel Chateau Frontenac) A funicular goes from the lower part of town up to the magnificent 19th-century Hotel Chateau Frontenac, where FDR, Winston Churchill, and Canadian Prime Minister MacKenzie King met during World War II. Quebec's Famous Dog Sled Race All of this history served as a fascinating backdrop for us to enjoy wonderful winter fun, including a thrilling dog sled race down historic rue Saint-Louis, one of Quebec's oldest streets with quaint hotels and restaurants offering traditional Quebec cuisine, like Restaurant aux Anciens Canadiens, situated in Maison Jacquet, the city's oldest house, circa1675. The street, covered in a layer of snow, was closed off to traffic and cordoned off for eager enthusiasts.
(The famous Quebec City dog sled race takes place on historic rue Saint-Louis, which is cordoned off especially for the race) With our layered clothing, heavy coats and warm boots, we were prepared for the 15-degree weather, which felt very comfortable thanks to sunny, clear skies.
(A dog sled team nears the finish line as the many spectators cheer them on) People
come from all over Quebec to compete in this race, which got front-page billing
in the daily Quebec newspaper, Le Soleil. The Thrill of My Life Snow "Tubing" The
next day, at the Plains of Abraham, I sat down on a big inner tube and went swirling
down the snow path. That was thrilling enough, but I got the "thrill of my
life" joining eight other people in a giant inner tube as we went careening
down another snow path. My wife tried ice fishing over a man-made lake filled with trout; there were some nibbles, but, alas, it turned out to be that old story about "the one that got away."
(You can sample delicious maple taffy made by wrapping an ice cream stick around thick, golden maple syrup that is spread out on a board of fresh snow) At another corner of the huge fair, we both loved sampling something called "tire d'erable" -- delicious maple taffy made by wrapping an ice cream stick around thick maple syrup that is spread out on a board of fresh snow. Maple syrup, of course, is a staple of Quebec cuisine, reflecting the natural taste of the countryside, where "sugar shacks" in maple groves are used to boil maple sap in big vats until it turns a rich liquid gold. Maple syrup is served in an amazing variety of ways in Quebec, from sweet maple syrup crepes to a delectable dish I found on the menu of Restaurant aux Anciens Canadiens called Maple Syrup Pie with Fresh Cream. Fun at Valcartier Vacation Village There were other attractions in the Quebec region, including the Valcartier Vacation Village, 20 miles away, renowned as the largest winter playground in America and, if you're thinking of coming in the summer, also the largest water park in Canada.
(At the Valcartier Vacation Village near Quebec City, you can ride gasoline-powered cars on the ice) On our visit, the park was filled with hundreds of school children on an outing, enjoying everything from ice karting in small, gasoline engine-powered cars on a circular ice track, to the Everest, an accelerating slide 110 feet high. The Ice Hotel But our most unusual visit was to the Quebec Ice Hotel, located about 30 minutes west of Quebec City in Sainte-Catherine-de-la-Jacques Cartier. The hotel is made with 15,000 tons of snow and 500 tons of ice and is open from January to April. Overnight stays are $199 (CAD) per person, double occupancy, and activities include dog sledding, snowmobiling, cross-country skiing, sliding and skating. The only other ice hotel outside of Sweden, it offers guests 34 rooms and suites, a "N'ice Club" reception room, a wedding chapel, a disco, and the ABSOLUT bar, where warm hot chocolate never tasted so good!
(The bartender in the ice hotel readies a toast at the bar, which is made entirely of ice!) For sleeping, a mattress is placed on a wooden platform, over which you slip into an insulated sleeping bag. They say that it helps to warm your body if you take a dip in the outdoor hot tub before retiring for the night! One of our friends decided to stay in the ice hotel for a night and told us he was so hot during the night that he had to unzip his sleeping bag. Back in Quebec City, over lunch at a great bistro called La Point des Ameriques, we asked ourselves all the reasons for Quebec City's attraction as a travel destination. There were some very obvious ones, like its reputation as a very safe and walkable city, the chance to experience Old World French culture without making a distant trip to Europe, a favorable exchange rate, and, of course, the changing seasons. But what topped our list was something more important -- the simple warmth of Quebec's people…which surely will bring us back again.
Quebec City will celebrate the 400th anniversary of its founding between January and October 2008, including events in the arts, the environment, sports, science, heritage and culture. For more information about Quebec City, call the Quebec City and Area Tourism and Convention Bureau at (418) 641-6654 or visit www.quebecregion.com.
(Restaurant aux Anciens Canadiens is located in the oldest house in Quebec City) Other
contacts include: (Quebec City...it makes a wonderful place for a visit. French cuisine, friendly people, a chance to practice your French in North America, albeit a different accented French, all of that and more. Have you been to Quebec City recently? Perhaps to Carnaval, or to experience the joys of winter sports, or delicious maple syrup recipes? Were you enamored of French-Canadian history? We'd like to hear what your experience has been in Quebec City. Write to us at editor@PostcardsForYou.com). (Click
below for more travel).
| ||
 |
