The Colors and Fragrances of Sunny Provence

By Arnie Greenberg
ultours1@gmail.com

When I think of Provence, I think of vivid colors reflecting on azure seas, the smells of lavender, home cooking, and history.

Yes, I think you can smell history -- and there's much to sniff out in sunny Provence.

The southeast corner of France shifted for centuries between France and Italy, and now that it's settled under French rule, there are countless visitors each year to see some of the architectural relics that have been tenderly preserved by the French.

Look closely at the region east of the Rhone and north of the Mediterranean. Start at the Italian frontier and drive west to the Camargue, where Gypsy horsemen on wild white horses round up bulls on salt marshy flats under an astonishing sun.

Here in the region of artists you can follow the routes of Cezanne or Van Gogh.

Moliere plied his trade in Pezenas. Picasso is buried near Aix and Renoir, Leger and Chagall came here to live and paint under a perfect sky.

The Romans founded their first settlements in Provence more than 100 years B.C. Their rule lasted to almost the year 500 A.D. From Menton on the Italian border to Orange (the Roman outpost north of Avignon), there are sights to amaze you.

Visit the Fontaine de Vaucluse, that spring of fresh water, life-giving for ages. Drive through the Luberon, but read Peter Mayle's A Year in Provence before you go.

Drive along the coast from Nice to Cannes to St. Raphael, where the red coast winds along a crashing sea. Visit the once sleepy little village of Ste-Tropez, an area made famous by French movie stars like Brigitte Bardot. In 1956 the film And God Created Woman was shot there by her husband, Roger Vadim.

This area was also the scene of Allied landings during World War II. It was heavily bombed, but you'd never know if you visited today.

This, too, was the home of the great French painters who came here for the quality of light.

Spend a day or two in the spectacular and peaceful harbor at Cassis, but then head to the western frontier and marvel at the Roman legacy that awaits you with its original charm.

Take a boat ride out to the calanques, the narrow inlets of jagged cliffs, some of which are over 1,300 feet high.

Avignon is also worth a visit. This walled city boasts a bustling central square, Place de l'Horloge, and the immense Palace of 14th-century popes or "anti-popes." There are 10 towers that make up an impregnable fortress, covering an area of almost 150,000 square feet, which is built on one of the oldest sites in southern France.

Leading from it, one can climb the heights over the Rhone and look down on the famous Pont St-Benezet, known popularly as the Bridge of Avignon, made famous by the popular song.

If you are here in mid-July, you can take part in the Avignon Festival with opera, ballet, live concerts and street theatre, including modern jazz.

Don't plan to cross the bridge -- floods destroyed most of it in the 17th century. But you can walk out to the tiny Chapelle St-Nicholas, perched on the end (for a price).

Dancing on the bridge is 'the thing to do.' But for me the main historical sites are the Roman Arch at Orange, the Roman theatre in the same city, and the unbelievable aqueduct built over 2,000 years ago -- and still standing over the Gard River.

The Triumphal Arch is north of the city of Orange, a triple-arched monument completed around 20 A.D. It is elaborately decorated with battle scenes and military trophies…a tribute to the Roman Legions which protected the frontier during the time of Rome's greatness.

The generals and their ladies must have looked splendid in their white-and-gold togas when they attended the magnificent theatre they built in Orange.

The theatre still stands and is still used. The acoustics are almost perfect, and we can't forget how old it is. The backdrop, which is still there, boasts a statue of Augustus Caesar, hand raised, greeting the patrons.

You can tour on your own if you wish. Louis XIV was to have said that the 125 foot-by-338 foot wall was 'the finest wall in the kingdom."

From Orange, head to Nimes, another Roman outpost worth visiting. The Roman amphitheater is one of the best-preserved monuments in Provence. This 20,000-seat arena is still used, including traditional bullfights.

And by the way, there's another just like it in Arles, if you are in the region, with a preserved theatre. The one in Orange is a better example, though.

Finally, you must see the Pont du Gard. That first glimpse from afar will draw you closer. It is the best testimony to Rome's greatness. At over 156 feet, it was the highest bridge ever built and made of enormous blocks of stone, which were hauled into place with giant pulleys by slave laborers.

The bridge was in continuous use for almost 500 years, not only to ford the river, but also to carry water a 31-mile distance from the springs of distant Uzes to the garrison at Nimes.

When I first went to visit this ancient aqueduct, one was still able to walk inside the water channel high above the river. That is no longer possible, but the authorities have built a modern hospitality center with washrooms, souvenir stands and restaurants.

Ah, modernity…we can't stop progress!

There are things to consider when traveling to Provence. There are over 2,500 hours of sunlight each year. The light is best in September and October.

But with the mistral, blowing down from the north almost half the year, you'll have to select carefully. My rule is to stay away when the crowds are there.

While in the area, try some of the local specialties like anchoiade, a pure of anchovies, olive oil and capers. My wife prefers bouillabaisse, a variety of fish boiled in olive oil and saffron. The vegetable soup with basil, garlic and olive oil is called soupe au pistou.

Notice the common denominator is olive oil. The garlic mayonnaise is called aioli, a country dish which often comes with left-over vegetables and usually with potatoes or carrots and a piece of cod, some snails and a hard-boiled egg -- a very heavy dish.

Discover the wines for your taste. The Bandol whites are usually a good bet.

OTHER SUGGESTIONS:

Chateau d'If: the formidable fortress built in 1524 and made famous in Alexander Dumas' Count of Monte Cristo. It stands in the harbor of Marseille.

Grasse, in the hills above Cannes, is a mecca for lovers of perfume. The industry goes back to the 16th century. Look for Fragonard. They offer free tours.

Cannes is a seaside resort that boasts the film festival in May. Otherwise, it's a bustling (overcrowded) resort, filled with restaurants and sightseers.

Antibes is a typical walled city, once controlled by Greek merchants and fishermen. F. Scott Fitzgerald spent much time here and helped make it fashionable. It has the old Gramaldi Chateau, which now houses the Picasso Museum. There is also a jazz festival in nearby Juan-les-Pins and a daily food market in the old town square.

Valloris is also the home of a Picasso museum. The artist lived here and donated a statue of a man with a sheep that stands in the main square.

Biot, a small hill village, was the home of Fernande Leger. The museum can be found on Chemin Val de Pomme. Leger's murals make the trip worthwhile.

St- Remy-de-Provence has interesting Roman ruins at Glanum. Van Gogh spent time here and Nostradamus was born here in the early 16th century.

GETTING THERE: You can fly from Paris to Nice and rent a car or you can fly into Marseille at the western end of Provence. I prefer Nice when entering and Marseille on the way out. There is a very fast TGV train from Paris to Marseille. It's inexpensive and comfortable.

Postscript on Provencal Food

The food, like everything else in Provence, is unique.

Here the olive is king, and most dishes contain olives or olive oil. Close behind is garlic and fish. When you put them all together as the French do, voila!

A culinary miracle.

Although not exclusive to this area, the Salad Nicoise rules the culinary diet. Made with fresh lettuce, eggs, green beans, cheese black olives and anchovies, it can be washed down with beer or a pleasant white wine.

For desert, try the tarte tatin. This is apple pie French style. There's nothing better.

If you want the meal of meals, ask for Bouillabaisse, especially in the Marseilles area. We ordered it in the tiny harbor of Cassis near Marseilles.

We sat looking out at the fishing boats in the harbor when they came to the table with a soup casserole mixture of monkfish, millet, snapper, scorpion fish, and conger eel flavored with tomatoes, saffron and…OLIVE OIL.

The broth is served with croutons and a special garnish called Rouille. It means rust and is made up of mayonnaise mixed with chilies and garlic.

Our restaurant was Restaurant 'Chez Gilbert' at 19 Quay des Baux on the Cassis waterfront. It was inexpensive at this 2* eatery.

At the fortress town of Les Baux, you can try the L'Oustan de la Baumaniere. It's a 5* discovery with the best lamb grazed on St- Remy herbs or in the salt marshes near La Camargue (or 'delta') south of Arles.

The Cavaillon melons are rich, sweet and juicy, or you can dessert on fresh peaches marinated in Muscat, made with powdered sugar, cinnamon and mint.

You won't have trouble finding first-grade food in the warm sunny south. In Aix-en-Provence look for Les Freres Lani. In Avignon a great 3* restaurant is called Hiely-Lucullus and the bouillabaisse at Marseilles' Miramar is memorable.

You just can't go wrong. Even the local wines are delicious and inexpensive. Let them suggest the house wine or a local Merlot, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, my favorite. You can never go wrong with wines from the Languedoc.

Bon Appetit!

(Click below for more travel stories).