From Paris, with Love
The following article, written in the latter part of 2002, recounts how Arnie Greenberg and his wife rented an apartment in Paris and became Parisians themselves. Arnie is pictured above.

By Arnie Greenberg
Contact Arnie at
ultours1@gmail.com

I've been to Paris many times, but I can hardly remember the first time. I know I was impressed -- otherwise, why would I come back every year, at least once.

But this visit, we rented an apartment, and that changes how we view the city. We are now residents, of sorts. We have to buy daily newspapers, French and English, our daily bread and groceries at the corner market.

People get to know us in the neighborhood, and we get to know where to buy one thing or another, where to get the best pastry, where to buy books, have tea, or eat a meal.

We don't have to pack and unpack. We do our laundry at the corner Laundromat, and we have a multi-hour membership at the Internet café up the street.

(Paris abounds in wonderful cafes, where you can choose between a table inside or, when the weather is warm, outside)

We live at #5 rue de La Bucherie. Une buche is a log, and I imagine, years ago, they cut wood along this narrow street.

The sidewalk is not wide, and there is no parking on either side. It is one-way, sens unique, and room only for the smallest cars.

It's a curved street with a little clump of dainty trees just outside our window. They clean the street daily and wash it down almost every night.

If you are looking for it on a map, it would face the south Rose Window of the Notre Dame Cathedral, but there are apartments across the street that block that view. (All people in the center of Paris live in apartments.)

These buildings are partly covered with ivy that is turning red and orange as I write.

The leaves have started to fall, but it is almost December. Being one street from the Seine, it's romantic, peaceful and close enough to the hustle bustle that is Paris.

We are only yards from KM ZERO, which is not only the center of the city but also the center of France. All measurements are from the tiny K-0 plaque in front of Notre Dame. After the Eiffel Tower, it's the most recognized landmark.

Our apartment is three floors up with no elevator. At home, I'd balk. Here, I accept it as part of the scene.

It consists of a fair-sized sitting room with couch, T.V., table & chairs, cupboards and small dresser. The bedroom is more of a loft. The kitchen barely holds two people at a time, and the bathroom is modern enough for Paris.

It is all carpeted and has two twelve-foot windows bringing in the light. It's charming and on the best street for my tastes. While it is not large, I would come back any time.

(It is quite common to see street performers here and there in Paris)

While here, I've learned a few things. Some I knew, but here's a short list so you won't get into trouble if you decide to rent an apartment and live here as we have done.

First of all, it helps if you speak French. Bonjour (good day), will help, and remember to say it with a smile before asking a question and whenever entering a store, even if it is crowded and everyone is ignoring you.

"Hey, Mack. Where's the subway to the opera?" just won't do it.

In a store that's crowded. Line up and wait your turn.

Don't be surprised if young boys or men of all ages shake hands when greeting each other. Don't be surprised if they kiss on both cheeks as a greeting. It's so French.

Don't expect to find butter on the table. Ask for it. but if you don't ask, you get none.
Regular coffee is espresso. It's strong and comes in a cup the size of a thimble.

Order a large (grand) café crème, which is a larger cup with cream added.

Sometimes un grand café Americin (large American coffee) will do the trick.

Do not handle the fruit and vegetables in most markets. Let someone serve you.

People eat their lunch almost everywhere, even seated next to you on the Metro (subway). Buying a pre-made sandwich on French bread and eating it on the street is a rather French thing to do.

There's more but I won't insult your intelligence. You'll no doubt do the right thing and enjoy one of the most fascinating cities in Europe.