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At Nassau House in Key West You're Worlds Away in a "Caribbean" Setting By
George Medovoy, Editor (The comfortable veranda of Nassau House, above, looks out on an Old Town street) There's a worlds-away place we fell in love with in Key West called the Nassau House. We were on a motor trip down the Florida Keys on our way to Key West, the most southern of the Keys at the end of our trip. The entrance to Key West itself feels like a big city, with lots of stores and traffic. But we escaped all that in Old Town, a slice of the Caribbean where you share the narrow streets and an occasional island cloudburst with noisy roosters.
(Ponder, the Nassau House mascot, all decked out in his Christmas cap) At Nassau House, our charming bed-and-breakfast inn with a generous front veranda, Michael Friedel and Mark Edwards were the perfect hosts, along with their mellow Lab Ponder. You can enjoy home-cooked continental breakfast and afternoon social hour on the deck. Our spacious room had a refrigerator, coffee maker, cable TV, and private bath. Suites offer a full kitchen.
(A bedrom with modern decor at Nassau House) We chose Nassau House, half hidden behind island palms with a wonderful outdoor lagoon/Jacuzzi, for its proximity to Old Town's Seaport Village, where we went sailing at sunset on the 130-foot schooner "Western Union," the last tall ship built in Key West, and for being so close to Hemingway Home and Museum and Duval Street shopping. One of the best parts of Nassau House is that man-made lagoon and Jacuzzi out back. How relaxing to come home to Nassau House after a day in Old Town and slip into the warm waters of the lagoon, which is surrounded by greenery and flowers. At night, you can look up into the sky and see the stars twinkling back at you.
(The warm lagoon/Jacuzzi of Nassau House, perfect in the evening after a day out in Old Town)
Key West Is Filled with History Harry Truman, who spent many a day at the Little White House here, once said, "I've a notion to move the capital to Key West and just stay."
(Harry Truman's Little White House in Key West is open to the public) Well, Ernest Hemingway came and stayed in a big Spanish-Colonial home in Old Town. The 1851-era residence looks just like it did when Hemingway lived here with his wife Pauline and their sons, including the 65-foot swimming pool and the elegant chandeliers Pauline shipped from Paris. Hemingway actually designed the pool, but it was Pauline who supervised its construction since her husband was away, covering the Spanish Civil War. When he returned, Pauline told him the pool had cost $20,000, and he reportedly said, "Well, you might as well take my last cent." That cent is still here to be seen.
(Hemingway Home and Museum, where the Hemingway's lived for 10 years beginning in 1931, is open to the public 365 days a year. It remains much as it was at the time they left Key West) The
Hemingway's stay lasted for 10 years, beginning in 1931. Hemingway's
friends in Key West were Charles Thompson, owner of a local hardware store, Joe
Russell of Sloppy Joe's Bar, and Capt. Eddie "Bra" Saunders, along with
his old Paris buddies. On a docent tour of the home, set amidst lush foliage, there were pieces of Hemingway's life everywhere, including the lithograph of Gregorio Fuentes, Hemingway's cook and mate on the "Pilar" who suggested the idea for The Old Man and the Sea. The biggest curiosity is the presence of 61 polydactyl cats, descendants of a six-toed (polydactyl) cat Hemingway got from a ship's captain. In the garden near the swimming pool is a water source Hemingway installed for his cats - a giant Spanish olive jar from Cuba, resting on a urinal taken from Sloppy Joe's Bar and decorated with Pauline's colored tiles. Some say Hemingway carried the urinal home after a drinking binge, but who really knows? Taking a Sunset Cruise Our sunset cruise aboard the 130-foot schooner Western Union, the last tall ship built in Key West, started out in a bit of fog, but it did clear up so that we could witness a stunning sunset.
(We pass a triple-masted ship as the sun begins to set) There we were, a group of happy "sailors," seated on the deck of the proud old ship. But soon enough, the crew passed around plastic raincoats, should we want them, to protect ourselves from the elements. And then those who wished, could help the crew raise the sails. Soon after the fog lifted, we could enjoy lovely views of the sunset on the calm waters and noticed several large modern passenger ships departing Key West under a stunning rainbow.
(We are serenaded by Steve Allerton as our ship sets sail on our sunset cruise) Steve Allerton was onboard to serenade everyone with his sea ditties to the music of his concertina. It's Called the "Conch Republic" In 1982 Key West's mayor declared "independence" from the U.S. as the "Conch Republic," using the name of the revered mollusk delicacy. His lighthearted act came in response to a U.S. blockade of the Keys to stop Castro's illegal boatlift of Cubans to America, but locals claimed the blockade was hurting Key West tourism.
(Visitors pass Key West's old Custom House) Well, the blockade is long over, so come on down and enjoy the relaxed lifestyle. The Conch Republic may just grow on you. IF YOU GO… General
travel information: www.fla-keys.com. Western Union Schooner: (305) 292-1766, or www.historictours.com. Hemingway
Home and Museum, www.hemingwayhome.com (Click below for more travel).
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