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Arnie Greenberg writes the popular Globetrotting column for PostcardsForYou, and despite his world travels, he still loves coming home to Montreal. By Arnie Greenberg (Photo above: a happy bistro scene on Saint-Denis Street, one of many great eating venues in marvelous Montreal). Most people are proud of their hometown. I'm one of them. I've lived here all my life, and even though I travel more than most people, I'm always happy to come home. I truly believe that Montreal is one of the most exclusive cities in the world. Generally speaking it's safe, it's economical, clean, and filled with many things to do. We have great universities, wonderful restaurants, excellent transportation, and changes in climate that offer something for everyone.
(A casual Sunday morning has the look of a bit of England in this otherwise very French city) In the middle of the city, we have a large mountain, Mont Royal, a playground for young and old. During the summer we walk, jog or relax in a crime-free setting. In the winter we skate, ski and romp over the same ground. From the Chalet atop Mont Royal, there's an exquisite view of the downtown area and the bridges spanning the St. Lawrence River to the communities on the south shore. Here in Montreal you can spend a few days visiting our casino or museums. You can spend a day skiing in the Laurentians, less than an hour away, or you can shop in sophisticated stores at Canadian prices. The US dollar is still worth a bit more up here to the Canadian. And think of those fashions of Canadian-designed clothing or imports from around the world. True,
there are some days in January or February that are below zero, but we have a
silent, fast-moving subway and underground shopping centers connected to large
commercial and residential buildings. You need never go outside. Montreal is a proud island. One can glide around it in a boat or take a dip on the island's few beaches, although I personally prefer the crystal cold lakes of the Laurentian Mountains.
(The relaxed ambience of Montreal cafe life) Many Montrealers own summer or weekend retreats in the mountains. Skiing and skating are on everyone's mind here during the winter. Others spend their holidays in the mountains of Vermont or in Florida during those icy months. But coming home is best even to cars equipped with block heaters, snow tires and seat warmers. So what if we need fleece-lined coats, boots, scarves and gloves. We still have hot summers and beautiful springs and autumns, my favorite time. Yes, we have it all. There's an Olympic-size stadium, swimming pools, bicycle tracks, a venue for formula 1 racing, theatres, jazz and "Just for Laughs" festivals, and a tennis stadium where the best players show their talents every August. We have first class hockey, baseball and currently the best football team in Canada. One can be educated in French or English, which adds to the cosmopolitan nature of this English-French city. There are newspapers and radio or TV stations in both languages. Even our signs are mostly in French, so you may want to bring a dictionary. On the other hand, in the core of the city, most people are bilingual and proud of it. Here one walks in Old Montreal and relives 350 years of history. You can wander along narrow cobbled streets, which boast buildings from the 1700s or beautiful Victorian homes of the 19th century.
(A horse-drawn carriage ride through the streets of Old Montreal) Walking through Old Montreal is like being in France. It is a community of 3,000 inhabitants (out of an entire city population of over two million) with more than 40,000 visitors a day. Add to that the twentieth century skyscrapers, and you have one of the most beautiful cities in the world, often called "The Paris of North America." You can reach it by car, bus, rail or air. Our modern airport at Dorval is only a twenty-minute ride from the great array of modern hotels waiting to serve you. There's more, but I want you to discover it for yourself. There is something for every age. Try it. You'll find out very quickly why we're so proud of Montreal. How proud are we? In a recent survey among Canadians, 89% said that life was better here than in the United States. They may be wrong, but their pride means they are happy where they live, despite the climate. Montreal: City of Immortal Food I grew up with certain tastes and smells. I lived in a home where Russian food was king. There were the usual European delicacies, some made by my grandmother and some purchased. She was an expert, and I marveled at how she could pour or add ingredients without measuring tools. There was pinch of this and a pinch of that. She was a kitchen chemist, and when she passed on, the old world foods passed on with her. Of course, Montreal, where I live, has many ethnic restaurants, including, Korean, Yiddish, Russian, Polish, Chinese, Thai and Greek. Yes, you can get it all here whenever the urge takes over. But there were two things that were everyday traditions that Grandma couldn't or wouldn't make. One was the common bagel and the other was smoked meat. These two food offerings are famous in Montreal, and there are places where you can try these European delights 24/7. There are many delis offering Montreal-style smoked meat. I lived for many years very close to Lester's on Bernard Ave. It's still there. The Snowden Deli draws crowds daily.
(There is nothing like a hearty Montreal smoked meat sandwich with all the trimmings) And Schwartz's on The Main is a Mecca for all ages, religions and nationalities. Here, in this tiny smoked meat emporium, you share tables with strangers, drink soft drinks from cans and eat their special brand of meat -- cured, smoked and covered with spices made 'the old way'. It's dry-cured, smoked to "blackened," and spice coated according to a 1930 Rumanian recipe. There are sandwiches three inches thick, platters with rye bread and cold sliced meat 'to go'. The place is always mobbed. Returning Montrealers here for the holidays or for a wedding always include a meal or two at any of the Montreal smoked meat houses. They do make smoked meat in many cities, but all over Canada you can see signs offering Montreal Smoked Meat at local restaurants. Delicate stomachs may have trouble digesting this offering, but people return to their favorite flavors. It's typically Montreal. Of course, there are other tastes to remember. Here you can buy the closest thing to a French baguette. While Frenchmen in many neighborhoods own bakeries, there are also chains. Pain Dore, on Monkland Ave., is our favorite. In the Italian section called Little Italy, café latte abounds. Faema is a favorite run by the Angeli family at 14 Jean Talon W. They'll even sell you one of their Italian Espresso machines. Montreal is a city where you can buy a typically French-Canadian tortiere, a heavy meat pie, which is filled with meat, often pork, onions, spices and lard. You can find it anywhere in the east end French district. You can also buy fries like you've never eaten before, smothered in vinegar and salt. Too much cholesterol for me. But if you may want to try Maple Taffy ice cream, you can find it at the famous Bilboquet at 1311 Bernard Ave. Ice cream or Chocolate Belgian Truffles, this is the place for you. The Montreal-style Chicken Bar B Q's are something that can't be beat, even by Kentucky Fried. And to top it all off, this is the North American center of bagels. They are the best money can buy. For more information, visit www.tourisme-montreal.com. For information about Old Montreal, visit www.old.montreal.qc.ca. (Click below for more travel articles!)
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