|
Mexico's
Art Havens: San Miguel & Guanajuato By
Arnie Greenberg (Pictured above is the Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramirez El Nigromante, affectionately known as Bellas Artes) Build it and they will come…or so the expression goes. Four hours north of Mexico City in the hills above the river valley, an art school was established at the Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramirez El Nigromante. That's quite a mouthful, but it is affectionately known as Bellas Artes, which today is part of the San Miguel Mexican National Art Institute and offers classes in painting, drawing, sculpture, music, dance and languages. Surrounding a lush garden with orange trees, it also incorporates a courtyard café, souvenir shop, two art galleries and an incomplete mural by David Alfaro Siqueiros. It's a place to gather to learn or attend lectures or concerts, and it is one of the reasons so many people flock to San Miguel de Allende every year. Local and expatriate artists show their works in the Parque Benito Juarez very close to the former, sprawling home of Maximillian, the European ruler of Mexico sent by Napoleon III of France. Close by a weekend of arts and crafts sales is often held. Connected to the food market is the long narrow pedestrian walkway through the stalls of local craftsmen offering ceramics, souvenirs, silver and folk art. The crafts are a delight, especially the silver and the work done with stones. The mundane and the surprising treasures were almost irresistible when we were there. A few of the artists in the park caught my eye. The first were the Mendelshons, father and son Noah (Americans). Also worth looking for is Mark Vranesh whose water colors are superb. Add the spectacular cat paintings of Mexican artist A. Mendoza, which I couldn't resist. At a special crafts show I saw ornate trays, silver jewel boxes, hand-knitted children's clothing, mosaics, necklaces and paintings. Prices are much lower than in North America. One night we went to a vernisage for a photographer who displayed his work showing many of the crafts people in their studio. Even the weekly newspaper, Informacion, listed art sales, shows and open houses. Luckily for us, we would go into town along Adama Street. It was there that we visited the home and studio of an exceptionally talented lady named Terry Ann Tomlinson, originally from New York. Not only is her paper craft very unique, but her home is a special space, and she is a welcoming, interesting artist.
(Terry Ann Tomlinson...hers is an attempt to capture spiritual reality that unites all forms of life) Hers is an attempt to capture the spiritual reality that unites all forms of life. Her work is done in a modern, light-filled setting. You know you are in a different space when you enter her garden patio with a waterfall backed by a fireplace…hot and cold. It is through a very nondescript door that one enters this enormous, modern structure filled with art, including sculptures and paperwork as I've never seen it done before. Facing you is a round kitchen counter built to nourish the body as art nourishes the soul. And there in her self-designed space is Terry Ann herself, ready to greet you and discuss her work. Her paper visions are unique, possibly because her background as a chemist affords an understanding of chemicals that can be mixed with the self-made paper. "When working with paper," she said, "I am connected with nature in a direct way."
(Tomlinson's Papyrus as Bamboo)
(Tomlinson's studio is located in this magnificent Colonial house) You can learn more about her at www.terryanntomlinson.com. There are days when she has an open house. While you are examining her work or learning about her aims, take time to walk around the house. It's a wonderful use of space with a heavy leaning towards nature. Not
far from San Miguel by car or bus is the city of Guanajuato. Here, too, there
is a legacy of painting as well as literature. The performance of Cervantes' comic plays, known as Cervantinos, became the seed for the most important cultural event of Latin America since 1772. A Quixote Museum features pictures of the main character by many famous artists, including Dali, Jose Luis Cuevas and a scene by Picasso. Inaugurated in 1987, it houses a collection of paintings, drawings, tapestries, coins, sculpture and porcelain. I couldn't resist the papier mache sculptures of Don Quixote and Sancho. It's a wonderful look at the character, the artist and the reverence in Mexico of his work. More information is on www.guanajuato.gob.mx/museo
(Quixote, Sancho Panza, Rosinante and Dulcinea puppets) Guanajuato, founded in 1570, is rightfully called "The Jewel of the Americas." Since 1988, it has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At one time it was the capital of Mexico. Here, too, you will find the Diego Rivera Museum House located in a large 18th-century neo-classical home. This was Rivera's birthplace and his crib and the family's furniture is on display. So, too, are paintings from different stages of the artist's career, including his Paris years.
(An inscription praising the work of Diego Rivera) There is a replica of one of his murals as well as a self-portrait that is particularly moving. I also enjoyed the picture done in France by a lady he was involved with for a while named Morevna Vorobiev. (See my book Double Deception, where she is one of the main characters). I agree with the art critic who wrote, in 1932, "To see the paintings of Diego Rivera, is to see Mexico." Of course, his bold murals can best be seen in Mexico City at the university. They celebrate the life and customs of common Mexican people. Art is a major theme in this corner of Mexico. It might take a few visits to see it all, and with new art created daily, you can satisfy that need over and over again. For more information see www.guanajuato.gob.mx/cultura
| ||
 |
