Chapter 31

She was right about the view. The chateau looked north, that is, what was left of it. Time had cost this chateau dearly but there it was on a cliff with the town clustered at its feet. Marie-Claude explained that during the Protestant Revolution people were thrown over the walls to their death.

"In 1560 this was the setting of an ill-fated conspiracy against Francois II by Huganots. 1200 conspirators were hanged from iron hooks on the chateau's façade."

They crossed into the city and parked near the Tour des Minimes, the original chateau entrance. It was a huge spiral ramp where men on horses could deliver provisions. Bruce looked up at the tiny Chapelle St Hubert that sat precariously at the edge of the cliff.

Marie Claude Discusses the Chapel

Marie Claude explained. "That's a fifteenth century chapel and Leonardo died in 1519 so it wasn't very old when he was placed there. There is a splendid view from atop. You can see much of the Loire valley. It was truly a Royal residence with beautiful archways and light."

"Let's walk to the Clos," she recommended. There are interesting houses along the way and it's not very far. See if you can see anything unusual about them."

First they sought out the Manoir St Thomas on the Place Republique. It was an elaborate restaurant behind a baroque door. They chatted over a light lunch of salad, pate and cheeses and reveled over a perfect Gamay wine labeled Touraine Amboise. The vineyards went back to the 16th century.

Afterwards they headed away from the water towards the Clos Luce.
It didn't take long for Bruce to spot the tiny houses along the cliff. All one could see were the doors and entranceways. The apartments were carved into the rock. Many had been expanded outward and boasted tiny windows and chimneys but what he was looking at were troglodyte houses inhabited by cliff dwellers.

"I can't believe people still live like this."

"I am told they are rather comfortable, especially in the summer when they stay cool. I shouldn't imagine living here in winter or the rainy season. Even our Chateau is rather damp but we do have many fireplaces."

At the Entrance Gate of Clos Luce

Then they were at the entrance gate of the Clos Luce where Leonardo spent his final years. They entered the spacious grounds in silence. Only workmen were there to greet them with nods.

"I can see why Da Vinci was happy here. It's spacious and beautiful."

"Yes," Marie-Claude smiled. "They were his last but he was happy and surrounded by admiration, affection and friendship of the King."
They walked through the Italian Renaissance Rose garden and stream running through it and watched a wing being restored by masons.


CLOS LUCE
Home of Leonardo Da Vinci


"Let's go inside." Bruce was anxious to see the models and drawings. He was surprised at the condition of the exhibits. They're wonderful. Look at the tank. It's so far ahead of its time. And he considered the helicopter, the parachute and swinging bridge. He even designed the mechanism to open and close it."

They examined the collection. There were forty machines designed four centuries before there times. Bruce took notes about the drawings. Some were meticulously done on colored board or thick paper.

In the living quarters they could see how Leonardo lived in comfort. It was designed as a Renaissance manor with pink brick and beige stone. Near the bed was a painting of him in bed surrounded by friends and the king. It was his death scene but Marie-Claude had already explained that Francis I was not in Amboise when the master died. "

Walking around Leonardo's Reading and Working Room

They walked around Leonardo's reading and working room. The sitting room that was used as a studio where the master completed Saint John the Baptist painting he had started in Italy. His desk stood silently in the corner with two windows affording perfect sunlight.

There was a monumental fireplace in the kitchen. From one window, you could see the Saint Hubert Chapel where he now rested. It was a moving experience just to be there.

Outside, Bruce admired the Stone and rose-brick construction. It had survived the war and was still being put into perfect shape. Future generations would be able to admire work done over 400 years before.

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