Chapter 30

It was easy to fall asleep in the comfortable bed and fresh country air. Marie-Claude tried to think of what tomorrow might bring. Bruce toyed with the idea of sitting out on the terrace with his cigar.

Breakfast was a feast. There was a buffet containing everything from omelets to fresh fruit. The coffee was hot and the staff was professional. But they would have to leave. It was half an hour to Azay with its fairy-tale turrets. They arrived just as the doors were opening.

They Walked All around the Chateau

They walked all around the chateau before entering it. They had crossed a tiny bridge and were on an island in the Indre River. The back wall ended in the water which may explain why it wasn't used in winter. It was called; Marie-Claude explained proudly, a feminine chateau since the construction was done under the watchful eye of Philippa Lesbahy the wife of Francois I's corrupt finance minister.

It was a pleasure palace during the 16th century and much attention was paid to detail. It looked like a Renaissance museum with cedar trimming, period furniture and a four story grand staircase. As they walked around the tiny island chateau, they crossed over a small waterfall which added charm to the site.

"Now I know why it's your favorite," Bruce smiled.

"Yes, but the others we'll see are larger, more imposing and filled with history."

Back at the entrance if the chateau office, they discovered a narrow street angling off to the left. They enjoyed an hour admiring all the art work and curios.

"May I help you?" one vendor asked.

"Yes, said Bruce. I'm looking for a late 15th century Leonardo Da Vinci."

The vendor smiled. "Sorry monsieur. I wish I could help you. Perhaps another time."

"You are an evil man," Clo whispered.

They left the small village of Azay and headed east about a half hour's drive from Tours. It was another sunny day and Bruce remarked how little rain there had been. "Look at the river. It's so low you can probably wade across."

A Beautiful and Peaceful River

"Yes, but its still beautiful and peaceful. One good rain and it will turn back to flowing."

She went on. "You realize that France is a country of Chateaus. Here on the Loire alone there are over one thousand. North of Paris there's a beautiful chateau at Pierrefonds and then again there's always Fontainebleau, Versailles and Chaumont, not far from here. We'll see it on the way to Chambord."

As she turned into the road leading to Chenenceau she explained. "This might be the most popular and the most spectacular in the area." They drove down an avenue bordered by Plane trees. Ahead lay Chenenceau astride the Cher River.

"There is none like this. It is functional, decorative and peaceful. Look how this entrance adds to the grandeur. On either side, beyond the gate, are beautiful gardens. One was built by Diane of Poitiers, Henry II's mistress and the other by his widow Catherine de Medici. She forced Diane to leave when Henry died. They moved her to Chaumont but it is very austere by comparison."

Facing them was a wonderful chateau that spanned the river. An old guard house stood near the moat. It was like walking in the past. The turreted Pavilion and original entrance dates back to the early 16th century and was built over the foundations of an old water mill.

"I think it's very romantic," she whispered.

"During the war, people used the castle to cross the river as they escaped to the south. This again is a woman's chateau. After Henry III took over, his widow began further changed. There's a chapel with a vaulted ceiling and pilasters sculptured with cockle-shells and a very large room that was used for parties."

They spent over an hour touring the chateau and the gardens. Bruce liked the Grande Galerie and the gold chamber of Catherine de Medici.

Tea Near the Old Stables

They had tea near the old stables, where a restaurant had been built.

"Commercial though it may be, it certainly ranks with the best."

"Was there damage here during the war?"

"Yes, the chapel's stained glass windows were destroyed in 1944 and it fell into disrepair over time after the revolution. But it's slowly coming back to its original splendor."

"Yes," Bruce mused. "I can just picture ladies with parasols walking through the gardens and little boats passing under those graceful arches."

"Shall we go into Amboise for lunch?"

"Yes. I'm very anxious to see the town where Leonardo lived. Is it far?"

"Not at all. We can be there in half an hour. I'd like to approach it from the northern side of the Loire. That's where one gets the best view.

We'll be there early enough to walk around and visit the Clos Luce and the church where Leonardo's remains lie. From on top you'll have a wonderful view of the town and the river."

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