| The drive north from Toulouse is a gentle experience on a smooth and relaxing road through rolling hills and patchwork farms. After an early, leisurely breakfast in the great Negresco dining room, Bruce and the countess left Nice. It was early and the highway was not too busy at that time in the morning. They breezed by Nimes, seeing only the outside of the great Roman Amphitheatre, and skirted Montpellier in the countess's Citroen. On to the Bridge at Cahors They bypassed Toulouse and Narbonne and by early afternoon they passed through Montauban but did not stop at the Ingres Museum. They headed north towards Cahors on the Lot River. "Have you seen the famous bridge in Cahors?" Marie-Claude asked. "It's one of the last Pont Volontre bridges in the world. It was used for defense purposes during the Hundred Years War. We should stop and see it. It's often photographed and. Like most people, I find it rather fascinating." "Then
we shall stop, "Bruce replied. "Yes, I heard there was an interesting
bridge in the area but never had a chance to visit it. They walked on the grassy slopes towards the stone bridge. Nearby, there was a gentle waterfall. She slipped her arm in his and began telling him of the bridge's legend.
"Look at the beautiful reflection in the water. There are three pointed towers, as you can see and seven Gothic arches," she started. "It seems that in the 14th-century the English were moving south during the Hundred Years War, and headed this way. The city was hard to defend with high mountains on the eastern shore. The town architect who had designed a fortress bridge with towers and turrets couldn't find enough stones to complete the construction on time. Materials were scarce and the news of the war was not good. Daily he prayed for a miracle. Approached by the Devil in the Churchyard One day while he was praying in the church yard, he was approached by the devil. "If you offer me your soul I will give you all the materials you need to complete the bridge. What was the architect to do? He had to save the city of his ancestors. Everyone depended on him. The deal was made. He would sell his soul to the devil. Materials would be plentiful and according to the story the devil delivered as he said he would. Soon, the bridge was completed. The devil danced on the top scaffolding with glee. "But," said the architect, I need holy water to bind together the stones. " That could only be obtained in the church and the devil could not enter a holy place, He was defeated. The architect was released from his promise and the fiery devil paced on top of the towers and threw stones down on the defenders. The architect crafted an effigy of the devil and with fast drying mortar he cemented the effigy to one of the towers. He is still there. When the English looked down from the hills and saw this impregnable fortress, they turned and went home without attacking it. The Hundred Years War ended here." "So
the architect saved the town, "said Bruce. "But
I can't see him," said Bruce, looking around. Bruce squinted and then smiled. Almost at the top was a small devil stuck in the stone for all time and screaming in agony. "My goodness," he said. "You are right. I see it clearly now. That is a fascinating story, even if only an urban legend." Later at lunch, Bruce stated, "This is a rather fascinating town and interesting for historians and architects. That's why I love this country. Where else can you see such battlements, barbicans, ramparts and fortified towers?" A Town Encircled by a Natural Moat "Where else can you find a town encircled by a natural moat? It is called a cingle. There are other towns in France with natural moats. Later we shall see Brantome." "Do they have a bridge like this?" Bruce was truly interested. Having a personal guide was a bonus. "No," Marie-Claude replied. "Each town has its own type of fortification. My home chateau at Hautefort is built high above the plain for added protection. It has remained since the days of the Romans. You will see." They got back into the car. She asked, do you want to see some of the sites in this region or shall we head directly to Hautefort." "What sites are you referring to?" Bruce asked. "Well, there's Rocamadour, the second most visited town in France after Paris. There's the hill village of Domme, the grotto of Padirac, Sarlat, a wonderful town, Les Eyzies, and Montignac near the famous Lascaux caves. They all have something special to offer." Bruce replied," No, I think I'd like to spend time in all of these places but not today. I'm anxious to get to Hautefort and see what faces us. Do you mind?" No, not at all, she smiled. I would be happy to show you all these places and more when we have time. There are many wonderful places to visit, all the way to Bordeaux or Limoges." "Then it's settled. Do drive on." "Good choice," she smiled. "Everything in its time." Click here for Chapter 4
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