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The Magical Tuscany Sun By Arnie
Greenberg (Pictured above, the lovely city of Florence). What could be better than a region of charming hill towns, sleepy villages, and villas ringed by majestic cypresses? What could be more inviting than vineyards, olive groves and fields of sunflowers marked by rambling rivers, rugged mountains and rolling hills that take your breath away? Add to that great food, great wine, and peace under a warming sun. This is Tuscany, where dreams come true. Provence and Tuscany: Magical Words Two of the most magical words for people searching for that perfect European holiday are Provence and Tuscany. Provence extends from the walls of Avignon, south through Arles and Aix-En-Provence, to the Camargue or Rhone delta and eastward to the Italian frontier. It's a warm, inviting land mixed with accents, lavender scents and typically 'provencal' villages. It makes for a wonderful holiday, as there are restaurants for all tastes and hotels for all budgets. Nice, Cannes, Antibes, along the coast or Vence in the hills above the azure coast - these are all haunts for those who know. I have stayed in lesser-known towns like Hyeres, near Toulon or Cassis nearby. I have visited the mountain town of Les Baux and the fortress city of Tarascon. I have basked in the sun of Palavas and Carnon near Montpellier and eaten mussels and oysters in old Sete. You can't go wrong. Every town has its tone, it's smells, and its specialties. Even the weather is good. Try Tuscany First But of the two, I'd recommend Tuscany first. If you have the time, you can do both, but it's best to visit small sections slowly so you can get the full flavor of these special places. In Tuscany, I have written about Lucca, the old capital, and Florence, the tourist Mecca of Italy. But I have found peace, sun and history in every corner. With a rental of a farmhouse near Pisa, we found that we could do day tours and still feel more at home than traveling from hotel to hotel. Massimo, our landlord, took us to local restaurants and taught us how the Tuscans enjoy life. Our first meal was preceded by porcini mushroom soup. It may sound bland, but it was delicious and traditional. At a steakhouse, we watched the chef put a whole roast into an open Bar-B-Q and cook it to perfection. His slices were huge, but the taste was outstanding. After a traditional desert, our host ordered a bottle of Limoncello. It came straight from the freezer. We sipped the sweet lemony liqueur and talked. How we talked! Even today, years later, we always have a bottle of Limoncello in our fridge. An Easy Drive to Pisa It was easy to drive to Pisa and the 'field of miracles.' I was fascinated by the efforts to stop the tower from leaning. After many years, it is safe to walk to the top again, so they say. I'm skeptical. The lean is quite pronounced. Yes, it's touristy and crowded, but it's one of the most famous sites in the world, worth a brief stop. Nearby, past the thermal baths at San Giulliano, you come to Lucca. This walled city is memorable. I dedicated an article to Lucca alone. In the hills beyond is the town of Montecatini Terme with a wonderful view of the land below. The tiny main street is filled with memorable restaurants and ice cream shops. Not far to the south is the tiny hill town of Vinci. Their favorite son, Leonardo, went from this humble town to the great cities of Italy to make a permanent contribution to Art. Vsiting Chianti Country Let's bypass Florence for this article and draw your attention to the land to the southwest. This is Chianti country, and driving through the rolling hills and the sea of grapes was a highlight for me. We even visited a wine chateau near San Gimignano. There are many open to the public. The roads are winding and the travel is slow, but you'll find the main operations at Castellina and Radda with delightful old centers. Tuscany's most famous village is a picture of Tuscan beauty with huge towers rising from orange-tiled roofs. An Etruscan and a once-Roman settlement, once quite prosperous, but that ended with rivalries and the black plague. It sought the protection of Florence in 1348. The town was rediscovered by tourists and is now a Mecca for shoppers seeking hams, potters, ceramics and glass, not to mention some of the best ice cream in Italy, found on the main square (Piazza del Cisterna). A few feet away are the Duomo and the piazza, where some of the film Tea With Mussolini was filmed. To the southwest is Volterra, high on a mountain amid rolling hills. This town is worth the climb. It's another world. There are other pretty towns with good services and warm people. Visit modern Arezzo with its sloping main square (Piazza Grande), just off the A-I south of Florence, or spend a few days in Cortona, an Etruscan city made famous recently by the book "Under the Tuscan Sun." Here there are museums and a ruined Medici Fortress at the top of the town. And from here you can see a wonderful view south to Lake Trasimeno. Visit Italy slowly, but whatever you do, don't miss Sienna. This is a city for painters, eaters, walkers, photographers or gawkers. The main square, the Campo Square, is world famous and filled with visitors even when the famous Pallio is over. Some of my warmest memories are on the square having dinner in the shadow of the huge bell tower. Just behind is the tiny synagogue in the old Jewish quarter. Sienna is a warren of tiny winding streets, but it is thriving and modern in spirit. The Duomo is worth a leisurely visit. It rivals the greatest houses of worship in all of Italy. The simplicity of color makes the building more dramatic. When I first arrived, I was awed by the Medici Fortress and the height of the tower, which you can climb. Call for information at 0577/ 292 263. The city is built within a wall high above the Tuscan hills. One of my warmest memories is having breakfast looking out on the mist rising over those gentle purple hills. Tuscany is Italy at its best. Sienna is its premier town and loveliest medieval city, home to some of the best museums in Italy. Once a rival of Florence, it still thrives as one of the most interesting tourist sites in Europe. It is more quiet and less congested by traffic. Here you feel that you are walking in history. For information, visit the information office at Piazza Del Duomo 2, or call 0577/586 410. Museo Dell'Opera Del Duomo, Telephone: 0577/283 048. (Click below for more travel).
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