Lascaux II: An Explorer's Dream

By Arnie Greenberg, ultours@aol.com

France is a country dotted by caves and grottos. This is especially true in the region around the Dordogne River within a 50 km radius of the town of Les Eyzies.

Here there is a cluster of prehistoric grottos and signs that cliff dwellers once made their home. In the area you will find a National Prehistoric Museum that will help you put it all into perspective.

Perche Merle, just east of Cahors on the Lot River, is an interesting place to visit. I’d also take in the cliff-side village of Rocamadour, one of the most popular sites in France. It’s slightly overrun by souvenir shops, but from afar, it’s a photographer’s paradise.

The buildings look like they are hanging from the cliffs. Other important sites are nearby at Padriac and Rouffignac. Even their exotic names conjure up visions of life in tribal France.

There are caves here covered in drawings, done over 15,000 years ago at the end of the Aurignacian or Magdalanian period. Charcoal drawings augmented by pigments blown on the cave walls through plant-stems depict bison, horses and reindeer.

Many caves of France and Spain reflect this method of drawing. But that’s not the story. You have to see it for yourself and wonder how the drawings were made, who made them and why. We assume that these caves were sanctuaries, where early man expressed his beliefs and knowledge.

The most popular is really only a reproduction, opened in 1963. That’s why it’s called Lascaux II, the Sistine Chapel of prehistoric times. Here paleolithic drawings were discovered during World War II, when two boys chased their dog into a hither-unknown site, whose drawings will amaze you.

Because of the deterioration of the drawings caused by many visitors, the site was meticulously duplicated with air quality control. This new cave is open to the public and well worth the visit. In July and August, it is open every day. There is a fee, but it’s well worth it, as a guide explains all.

The Great Bull in the Hall of Bulls, intermingled with horses and reindeer, will be an image you’ll never forget. In 45 minutes you will visit the work of true artists of a bygone age.

One of the most famous sites in France, Lascaux II is only a stone’s throw from the market town of Montignac, on the Veyzere River. This is one of my favorites of all towns in France. I have three reasons for returning there every spring.

A lucky reservation can get you a comfortable room in the Relais Du Soleil D’Or. This rebuilt old hostel is part of the Chateau Relais chain in a ‘silence’ setting. Rooms look out over the garden with a beautiful pool and a wonderful restaurant.

You look through plate glass windows, beyond the white calla lilies, into the waiting pool. The menu is memorable. The price is right and the service impeccable.

Don’t judge the building by its façade. It’s a nicely refurbished one that you might miss on a walk along the main street. If you are just looking for a quiet place for lunch, I suggest the old pilot’s house on the northern side of the Veyzere River, just to the right of the town’s old stone bridge.
Les Pilotis can be seen from the bridge, just in front of the City Hall (Hotel De Ville).

There are sun-protected tables only feet from the gently moving waters, and since many working people go home for lunch, the restaurant with its amiable owners offers peace and tranquility while tourists in rented kayaks glide silently by.

This is hardly gourmet dining, but the pasta sauces are perfect and the salads crisp. Besides, you won’t believe the price or location.

Visit Lascaux II in the warm months and take your children along. It will open new worlds for them.

Lascaux II is easily found from Montignac. The group entrance fee is 32 FF per person. Opening hours are 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. in the summer.
For information, call 05 53 51 96 23.