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From
Bogart to Hemingway: There's So Much to Discover By
George Medovoy, Editor (Ah, what a delight...fresh coconuts for sale next to the port in Old Town, Key West) The Florida Keys, a 127-mile archipelago rich in history and natural wonders, are like a string of pearls glistening in the sunny Florida Straits. On the map, they're identified by "Mile Markers," small green signs with white numbers beginning with 127 south of Florida City and ending with zero in Key West, the southernmost island in the chain and a mere 90 miles from Cuba. Depending on traffic, you can drive it in about two hours without any stops.
(A spectacular sunset over the water makes a trip to the Florida Keys really worth it!) When you leave the little towns and it's just you on the Overseas Highway, there are magnificent panoramas of blue-green water, views interrupted by the occasional lone fisherman in his boat. Sometimes you're no more than a stone's throw from bay side to ocean side on these narrow islands. It's another world -- a hybrid of natural beauty and culture more Caribbean than American -- an area discovered in 1513 by Ponce de Leon, the Spanish explorer who was searching for the elusive "fountain of youth." And weatherwise, things couldn't have been better. Situated between the waters of the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico, the Florida Keys occupy a unique geographical location whose ocean breezes keep temperatures moderate year-round. Key West, for example, boasts an average daytime high temperature of 81.9 degrees Fahrenheit. The Keys: Great for Water Recreation With similar readings for the entire island chain, the Keys are the perfect place to enjoy water recreation - scuba diving or snorkeling on the region's rare living coral reefs, water skiing, kayaking, sailing and offshore swimming any time of the year. Famed around the globe, the clear, warm waters of the Florida Keys attract almost 800,000 scuba and snorkel aficionados annually, and there is no better destination to learn how to get "up close and personal" with the undersea environment. The Keys'
combination of vivid coral reefs teeming with exotic sea creatures and a wealth
of first-rate snorkel/dive operators offers a ready-made vacation paradise for
those who can't wait to get into the water and start exploring.
(The Keys offer a great variety of water recreation, including underwater sports) I began my journey in Ft. Lauderdale, merging onto the Florida Turnpike for the trip down to Florida City, where I joined the two-lane Overseas Highway, also called U.S.1. Since I had only four days, I selected three places to visit - Key Largo, where the 1948 Humphrey Bogart gangster movie was partly filmed, the village of Islamorada for a restful stay on the water, and Key West, to visit Hemingway Home and Museum and go sailing. Looking for Humphrey Bogart in Key Largo My first stop, 58 miles from Miami, was once known as Rock Harbor, but the name was changed to Key Largo because of the Bogart film's notoriety - a sure example of life imitating art! Driving from mainland Florida, visitors to the Florida Keys enter the tropical landscape chain at Key Largo, the longest island in the Keys. Key Largo is bordered on the west by Florida Bay and the Everglades National Park backcountry, and to the east by the Atlantic Ocean, home to the clear waters of the Gulf Stream. Visitors can enjoy Key Largo's ties to the sea including scuba diving, snorkeling, an underwater hotel, sportfishing, eco-tours, beaches and dolphin encounter programs. Key Largo is best known for John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, mile marker (MM) 102.5, the first underwater park in the United States. The park is adjacent to the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, which encompasses 2,800 square nautical miles of coastal waters of the entire Keys chain. Back on land, environmental trails at Pennekamp Park wind through tropical hammocks of gumbo limbo, strangler fig, tamarind, wild coffee and mahogany trees. The Key Largo Hammock Botanical State Park, Route 905 at MM 106 bayside, offers opportunities to view rare tree snails, Schaus swallowtail butterflies, white crowned pigeons, mangrove cuckoos, lignumvitae trees, butterfly orchids and wild cotton. At the Key Largo post office, I asked the clerk if tourists ever mentioned the movie, and she said, "You can see where they filmed it down the highway at the Caribbean Club." You must recall the film's entire larger-than-life cast in addition to Bogart, there was Lauren Bacall, Edward G. Robinson, Lionel Barrymore, and Claire Trevor.
(The Caribbean Club, right on the Overseas Highway, is where some of the Humphrey Bogart movie Key Largo was actually filmed) When I walked into the club, the room was so dark that I almost bumped into a pool table. Once I adjusted my eyes to the dark, I noticed a bar full of noisy locals. On
the wall were dozens of black-and-white "Key Largo" movie photos and
a poster for "Blood and Wine," a movie starring Jack Nicholson which
was shot out back near the small boat landing. A Sojourn in Islamorada On
the way to Islamorada, a sign advertised short rides in the actual boat from the
Bogart-Hepburn movie, "The African Queen." Then it was back to reality and Islamorada… This little town is the centerpiece of a group of islands named "morada" by Spanish explorers, either for the violet sea snails they found on the seashore or for the purple bougainvillea that flourish here. Known as the Sportfishing Capital of the World, Islamorada features the Keys' largest fleet of offshore charter boats and shallow-water backcountry boats.
(Another wonderful Florida Keys sunset, this time at the Islamorada Fish Company, an actual working fish market, where you can enjoy the catchof the day...and a piece of key lime pie!) Islamorada's main street, the Overseas Highway, has clusters of shops and restaurants, like the Islamorada Fish Company, an actual working fish market, where I dined on fresh grouper and French fries, with a slice of traditional key lime pie for dessert all under a brilliant Keys sunset. At Worldwide Sportsman, the cavernous fishing gear store next door, I visited the sister ship to Hemingway's famous 38-foot fishing boat, "Pilar." The story is that after fishing from this one, Hemingway ordered another just like it to satisfy his yearning for Gulf Stream big fish. No surprise, the spacious vessel has several bare-chested-Hemingway fishing photos on display. I enjoyed Islamorada's Theater of the Sea and Tropical Gardens -- small enough not to overwhelm -- and was captivated by the dolphin, sea lion and parrot shows.
(The Pines and Palms Resort offers a relaxing stay on the shores of the Atlantic. The Caribbean cottages are tastefully decorated and clean) At the 1950's-era white cottages of Islamorada's Pines and Palms Resort, I was reminded of the serenity of the British Virgin Islands - and knew that I had made the right decision on where to stay. "You can fish all year round," says friendly innkeeper Jim Bernardin, "and never run out of something to catch." Like sailfish, mahi-mahi, and tarpon. Or, like me, you can sit on a blue lounging chair on the shore of the Atlantic…and read a good book.
(Like me, you can read a good book on a lounging chair right by the water. What more could you ask for?) My cozy cottage had a comfy bedroom, private bath, and kitchen area with convenient stove, microwave, refrigerator, coffee maker, and kitchenware. A step-down room had a small table, a couch, and a TV overlooking a waterside patio.
(A hammock under the palm trees at the Pines and Palms Resort...perfect for an afternoon nap) In the summer months, fishermen come for mahi-mahi, and the dock will have as many as 15 boats tied up at any one time. Bernardin also rents nearby two-bedroom 2 ½ bath condos and a one-bedroom conch cottage. The conch cottage, Bernardin says, "is like renting your friend's beach home." His recommendations on what to see and do in Islamorada are very good, like breakfast at Bob's Bunz, a small, off-beat sort of place famous for cinnamon buns with cream cheese frosting and where the waitress recommended the home fries with my scrambled eggs because "You can get hash browns anywhere." Heading for Key West After a hearty breakfast, I got back on the Overseas Highway and headed for Key West under warm, sunny skies. On the way, at Lignumvitae Key, accessible only by boat, were tropical hardwood trees, while undeveloped tropical rainforests thrived in Long Key State Park. Near Looe Key, I saw signs urging caution for key deer hidden in the forest bordering the highway. When I reached Marathon Key, large by Keys standards, I was midway to Key West. I noticed lovely waterside homes near small marinas and plenty of golfing opportunities.
(At Marathon, you are at the famous Seven-Mile Bridge, which crosses tiny Pigeon Key. The new bridge, on the left, is pictured during a marathon held once a year. At the right, is what is left of the original bridge, which is not used for driving) Marathon is the jumping off point for the Lower Keys and the famous Seven-Mile Bridge, offering magnificent views of the Florida Straits and the Gulf of Mexico. A 'Bridge' to Flagler's Foll At the four-acre Pigeon Key, I was reminded that before the Overseas Highway, there was Henry Flagler's Florida Overseas Railway, otherwise known as "Flagler's Folly." Flagler, a tireless visionary, changed the face of southeastern Florida from swampland to civilization, including his 1,150-room Hotel Poinciana, which established Palm Beach as the playground of the rich and famous. But down in the Keys, Flagler is remembered for his railway. In 1905, seeing trading opportunities with Latin America, he drew up plans to build a railway to Key West, then the biggest city in Florida. Flagler employed 4,000 men to build the rail line with its daring bridges, including the famous Seven-Mile Bridge, the world's longest segmental span, but long since abandoned and today used as a fishing pier off Pigeon Key.
(A section of the old Seven-Mile Bridge is seen on the right, crossing over tiny Pigeon Key. At Pigeon Key, Flagler housed many of the men who built his Overseas Railroad)
All the Way from New York to Havana! By
1912, you could board a Pullman car in New York and go all the way to Key West
on the train, with steamer connections to Havana! Construction of the highway's foundation incorporated some of the original railway spans as well as the coral bedrock of individual keys and specially constructed columns. Completed in 1938, the highway marked the beginning of an incredible adventure for the North American motorist. The Overseas Highway represents an incredible engineering feat: 113 miles of roadway and 42 bridges leapfrogging from key to key in a series of giant arches of concrete and steel. In 1982, 37 bridges were replaced with wider spans, including the well-known Seven Mile Bridge at Marathon. In 2002 the Florida Keys Overseas Heritage Trail was added, which includes the Grassy Key Bikeway. Spanning mile markers (MM) 54.5 to 58.5 bayside, the eight-foot-wide Grassy Key Bikeway is landscaped and furnished with a split-rail fence as well as bollards to prohibit automobile access. The Heritage Trail is a paved recreational path along old Flagler railroad bridges and the Florida Department of Transportation right-of-way that features crossways between bayside and oceanside. Stretching from MM 106.5 to MM 0, the trail includes interpretive trailheads designating attractions and other public areas on and off U.S. Highway 1 - as well as benches, an art bicycle rack and a limestone column sign with an Overseas Heritage Trail map. Today at Pigeon Key, where Flagler housed 500 of his workers, you can visit the original railroad village. Seven-Mile Bridge has also made it into the movies, including the thrilling helicopter chase scene in True Lies, as well as 2 Fast, 2 Furious, License to Kill, and Up Close and Personal. The new bridge runs parallel to the old one, and on April 23, it will be the site of the 24th-Annual Seven Mile Bridge Run, with an estimated 1,500 runners expected. Now in its 24th year, the annual race gives runners the chance to traverse the entire expanse of the landmark bridge. Event organizer Denise Pankow expects that applications will be mailed out Feb. 28. The competition is limited to the first 1,500 entrants whose fees are received via U.S. mail. The race often fills to capacity within a few days after applications have been distributed. Divisions within the run traditionally include men's, women's, children's, age 75 and older, and wheelchair, with prizes awarded to top finishers. The one-of-a-kind run over water is both scenic and challenging due to the "hill" created by the shape of the bridge. The bridge is to be closed to traffic 7 -9 a.m. to accommodate the event. To receive an application, send a legal-size, self-addressed, stamped envelope to the Marathon Runners Club, P.O. Box 500110, Marathon FL 33050. The race entry fee supports local school and youth group programs. For event information, call 305-743-8513. To find out about area accommodations, call the Marathon Chamber of Commerce at 305-743-5417 or (800) 842-9580, or visit the Keys Web site at www.fla-keys.com. Arriving at Key West
The entrance to Key West itself feels like a big city, with lots of stores and traffic. But I escaped all that in Old Town -- a worlds-away slice of the Caribbean, where you share the narrow streets and an occasional island cloudburst with noisy roosters!
(You can sit back and relax on the veranda of Nassau House and just absorb the charm of Key West's Old Town) At Nassau House, my charming bed-and-breakfast inn with a generous front veranda, Michael Friedel and Mark Edwards were the perfect hosts, along with their mellow Lab Ponder.
(Who couldn't fall in love with Ponder, the friendly mascot at Nassau House, shown here all decked out in his Christmas cap!) You can enjoy home-cooked continental breakfast and afternoon social hour on the deck. My spacious room had a refrigerator, coffee maker, cable TV, and private bath. Suites offer a full kitchen.
(Nassau House is half hidden behind island palms in Old Town) I chose Nassau House, half hidden behind island palms with a wonderful outdoor lagoon/Jacuzzi, for its proximity to Old Town's Seaport Village, where I went sailing at sunset on the 130-foot schooner "Western Union," the last tall ship built in Key West, and for being so close to Hemingway Home and Museum and Duval Street shopping.
(The Nassau House lagoon, with its soothing Jacuzzi)
Hemingway's Home…Cats and All Harry Truman, who spent many a day at the Little White House here, once said, "I've a notion to move the capital to Key West and just stay." Well, Ernest Hemingway came and stayed in a big Spanish-Colonial home in Old Town.
(Hemingway's 1851-era residence in Old Town is open to the public 365 days a year) The 1851-era residence looks just like it did when Hemingway lived here with his wife Pauline and their sons, including the 65-foot swimming pool and the elegant chandeliers Pauline shipped from Paris.
(Hemingway's residence as seen from above, surrounded by Key West's lush vegetation) Hemingway actually designed the pool, but it was Pauline who supervised its construction since her husband was away, covering the Spanish Civil War. When he returned, Pauline told him the pool had cost $20,000, and he reportedly said, "Well, you might as well take my last cent." That cent is still here to be seen. The
Hemingway's stay lasted for 10 years, beginning in 1931.
(Duval Street in Old Town is a main shopping area and very near to Hemingway's home) Hemingway's friends in Key West were Charles Thompson, owner of a local hardware store, Joe Russell of Sloppy Joe's Bar, and Capt. Eddie "Bra" Saunders, along with his old Paris buddies. They were all known as "The Key West Mob," and they would go fishing together for tuna and marlin from the Dry Tortugas down to Bimini and Cuba. Each of them had nicknames -- Hemingway was called "Papa." On a docent tour of the home, set amidst lush foliage, there were pieces of Hemingway's life everywhere, including the lithograph of Gregorio Fuentes, Hemingway's cook and mate on the "Pilar" who suggested the idea for The Old Man and the Sea. The biggest curiosity is the presence of 61 polydactyl cats, descendants of a six-toed (polydactyl) cat Hemingway got from a ship's captain. In the garden near the swimming pool is a water source Hemingway installed for his cats - a giant Spanish olive jar from Cuba, resting on a urinal taken from Sloppy Joe's Bar and decorated with Pauline's colored tiles.
(The Conch Train takes tourists on a tour of Old Town, passing by Hemingway's favorite bar, Sloppy Joe's) Some say Hemingway carried the urinal home after a drinking binge, but who really knows? The evening before I left Key West, I boarded the 130-foot schooner Western Union, the last tall ship built in Key West, for a wonderful sunset cruise.
(A triple-masted ship is seen off in the sunset as we cruise on the Western Union) There we were, a group of happy "sailors," seated on the deck of the proud old ship. But soon enough, the crew passed around plastic raincoats, should we want them, to protect ourselves from the light rain. And then those who so desired, could help the crew raise the sails, but our efforts generated lots of laughter more than any real work. Soon after the rain stopped, we could enjoy lovely views of the sunset on the calm waters and noticed several large, modern passenger ships departing Key West under a stunning rainbow.
(Steve Allerton serenades passengers with his seafaring ditties as we set sail) Steve
Allerton's sea ditties, sung to the accompaniment of his concertina, only added
to the warm ambiance on the Western Union. I just happened to win the ship's
raffle and received a free copy of his CD, "Seafarer." (www.dolphinwhistle.com/harp). The Conch Republic Declares "Independence" In 1982 Key West's mayor declared "independence" from the U.S. as the "Conch Republic," using the name of the revered mollusk delicacy. His lighthearted act came in response to a U.S. blockade of the Keys to stop Castro's illegal boatlift of Cubans to America, but locals claimed the blockade was hurting Key West tourism.
(Before you leave the "Conch Republic," or Key West, be sure to have a photo taken next to the marker identifying the southernmost point in the continental United States -- just 90 miles off the coast of Cuba. The area of Key West, known as Southernmost, has some lovely homes worth seeing on a walk) Well, the blockade is long over, so come on down and enjoy the relaxed lifestyle. The Conch Republic, like the rest of the Florida Keys, may just grow on you. IF YOU GO… General
travel information: www.fla-keys.com.
Need more information about the Florida Keys? Here are several additional links: WHAT'S HAPPENING IN THE FLORIDA KEYS IN 2005 Although every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, dates and details listed here are subject to change or cancellation without notice. For a detailed schedule of Florida Keys & Key West events, visit www.fla-keys.com. The web site calendar is updated regularly and reflects the most up-to-the-minute information. Jan. 8 - March 25: Sculpture Key West presents "Art in the Park." Key West. Innovative oceanfront exhibition of large-scale contemporary sculpture by local and internationally recognized sculptors, set against the historic and natural beauty of 87-acre Fort Zachary Taylor State Park. Contact 305-295-3800 or visit www.sculpturekeywest.com. Feb.11-13: Heritage Festival. Key West. Colorful Civil War re-enactments and tours of Key West's historic Civil War-era fortification, Fort Zachary Taylor. Contact Jane Blatherwick at 305-292-6850. Feb. 12-13: 11th Annual Pigeon Key Art Festival. Marathon. Art festival featuring 70 national artists held on historic Pigeon Key. Located beneath the Old Seven Mile Bridge, the island was a camp for workers of Henry Flagler's Overseas Railway. Contact Linda Partney at 305-743-5176 or visit www.pigeonkey.org. March 5: 29th Annual Marathon House & Garden Tour. Marathon. This event is a showcase of beautiful homes & extraordinary gardens in the Marathon area selected for their uniqueness & reflection of Keys living. The gardens are often larger than the homes & display native foliage as well as exquisite specimen of plants & trees. In addition, each home is adorned with several floral arrangements created by the members of the Marathon Garden Club using fresh foliage specifically designed to accent the decor of each of the homes. Contact Betsy Philipps at 305-743-4971. March 13: 3rd Annual Key Largo Home & Garden Tours. Key Largo. Opportunity to tour new, established and historic homes showcasing unique architecture and gardens displaying native foliage of the Florida Keys. Contact Karen Tiedemann at 305-451-1414. March 19: 43rd Annual Conch Shell Blowing Contest. Key West. An Old Island Days tradition, this unique contest features novel sounds produced by contestants in several age categories as they attempt to make "music" on fluted conch shells. Contact Fran Marchbank at 305-294-9501 or visit www.oirf.org. March 19-20: 32nd Annual Original Marathon Seafood Festival. Marathon. Gourmet delicacies from the waters of the Florida Keys highlight this annual event. Contact Marathon Chamber of Commerce at 305-743-5417 or visit www.floridakeysmarathon.com. March 20: "Rites of Spring" Art & Craft Show. Big Pine Key. Fine arts, jewelry and crafts by entirely local Keys artists. Contact Troid Brett at 305-872-2635 or visit www.floatingislandonline.com. March 27: Underwater Easter Eggs. Key Largo. Easter bunny hostsannual underwater egg hunt off Key Largo to benefit KISS. Contact Spencer Slate at 305-451-3020. April (TBA):
Long Key Bike-Kayak Event. Marathon. Bicycling and kayaking excursion for all
ages that previews the Florida Keys Overseas Heritage Trail. Includes a six-mile
bike ride over the historic Long Key Bridge, a two-mile kayak trip to Long Key
Point and an optional beach cleanup. Kayak rental April 10: 10th Annual Bay Jam. Key Largo. Music and art festival on the bay, featuring local and guest artists. Contact Dave Feder at 305-853-6331. April 15-17: 11th Annual Robert Frost Poetry Festival. Key West. Features a poetry writing workshop and a poetry contest. Staged at the Robert Frost Cottage at the Heritage House Museum, where Frost spent many island winters. Contact 305-296-3573 or visit www.heritagehousemuseum.org. April 18: 10th Annual Taste of Key West. Key West. Scores of area restaurants present mouthwatering samples of their cuisine. A benefit for Key West's AIDS Help Inc., held overlooking the Atlantic Ocean at Higgs Beach Park. Contact Pam Demala at 305-296-6196. April 22-May 1: 23rd Conch Republic Independence Celebration. Key West. Parades, bed races, parties and a wacky "drag race" commemorate the founding of the Conch Republic on April 23, 1982, in response to a U.S. Border Patrol roadblock that halted traffic in and out of the Florida Keys. Contact Peter Anderson at 305-296-0213 or visit www.conchrepublic.com. April 23: Earth Day at Cheeca Lodge. Islamorada. Annual celebration features entertainment, food and sand-shaping sculptures on the beach. Contact Liz Hill at 305-451-5094 or visit www.cheeca.com. April 23: 24th Annual Seven Mile Bridge Run. Marathon. An estimated field of 1,500 runners participates in the annual foot race across the longest segmental bridge in the world, with the blue-green Florida Keys waters beneath. Contact Denise Pankow at 305-743-8513. May (TBA): Barley Bay Festival. Upper Keys. Reef cleanup and concert fund-raiser to benefit the Keys marine environment. Contact Wayne Blevins at 305-451-4040 or visit www.keylargo.org/calendar.cfm. May 13-14:
Harry S. Truman Legacy Symposium: "Quest for Peace in the Middle East."
Key West. Panel discussions, reception and tours of the Little White House
where former President Harry Truman worked and relaxed during his time in office.
Contact Bob Wolz at 305-294-9911 or visit www.trumansymposium.com.
May 14-15: 2005 Island Festival Featuring The Taste of Islamorada. Islamorada. Enjoy a day of musical entertainment and another day of the area's best chefs showcasing their culinary specialties for all to enjoy. Contact the Islamorada Chamber of Commerce at 305-664-4503 or visit www.islamoradachamber.com. June
4-12: Pridefest Key West. Key West. Honors diversity, openness and freedom
in the city that is consistently recognized as one of the world's top gay and
lesbian vacation destinations. Contact the Gay June 10-12: City of Marathon Super Boat Grand Prix. Marathon. High-speed powerboats race through the Seven-Mile Bridge in the heart of the Florida Keys. Contact John Carbonell at 305-296-6166 or visit www.superboat.com. June 13-18: 6th Annual Cuban American Heritage Festival. Key West. Showcases the culture and customs Cubans brought to Key West. Contact Fred Salinero at 305-295-9665 or visit www.cubanfest.com. June 16-19: ChickenFest Key West. Key West. Honors the vivacious, living, breathing, squawking Key West chicken with a variety of lighthearted events culminating in the "Poultry in Motion" parade. Contact 305-296-5596 or visit www.chickenfestkeywest.com. July 4: Islamorada, Village of Islands, Independence Day Celebration. Islamorada. Playground and activities for kids such as a bounce house, clowns and beach area for whole family at Founders Park. Community members bring food to share and fireworks light up the sky at dusk. Contact Maria Bagiotti at 305-853-1685; info to be posted at www.islamorada.fl.us. July 9: 21st Annual Underwater Music Festival. Big Pine Key. Quirky concert broadcast underwater for divers, snorkelers and the occasional mermaid at Looe Key in the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. Emphasizes reef preservation. Contact Carole Stevens at 305-872-2411 or visit www.lowerkeyschamber.com. July 15-20: Mel Fisher Maritime Heritage Society's "The Golden Crew, 20 Years Later; The Main Pile Anniversary." Key West. Celebrates the 20th anniversary of the discovery of the legendary shipwreck Nuestra Señora de Atocha with lectures, receptions and panel discussions. Contact the Mel Fisher Maritime Museum at 305-294-2633 or visit www.melfisher.org. July 18-24: Hemingway Days Festival. Key West. Twenty-fifth annual celebration of the legendary author's work and lifestyle. Literary readings, theatrical premiere, short story competition, museum exhibit and unveiling of life-size Hemingway bronze, fishing tournament and Sloppy Joe's Look-Alike Contest. Contact 305-296-2388 for Look-Alike events and 305-294-0320 for literary events, or visit www.hemingwaydays.org. July
29-Aug. 7: Key West Summer Food & Wine Festival. Key West. Showcases the
talents of Key Sept. 6-11: WomenFest. Key West. A lesbian-oriented festival of art shows, sailing and snorkeling, comedy performances and other activities. For more information and updates, visit www.womenfest.com. (Click below for more travel).
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