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Arnie Greenberg (The small boat harbor at Capri, above, beckons visitors to enjoy the romantic views) The odyssey continues. We are still in Tivoli having lunch on the main square. We will head to Villa Gregorians. Here, the ruins are magnificent, and the villa is found just off the railroad station road past the Gregariano Bridge. It is built on the precipices of the Aniene River and named after Pope Gregory XVI. Even the river had to be diverted in the 19th century, as it was often the cause of repeated damage and deaths.
(A village nestled in the Italian hillside) Within the tree-lined borders, there are rocky paths, steep lanes, and tiny tunnels that wind through the woods and channel the river to the large waterfall -- one of the most splendid and impressive in all Italy. Water seems to tumble in a deafening roar from the horseshoe terrace above.
(Water seems to tumble in a deafening roar...)
The Temple of Vesta Here, too, is the Temple of Vesta, over 2,000-years-old and at one time turned into a Christian church. Decorated with floral garlands, heads of bulls, roses, grapes, sprigs of grain and fruit, it is a reminder of the decorative splendor that was possible so long ago. From here you can see the cliffs along the river and the gentle slopes in distant Tivoli.
(A portion of Hadrian's Villa, the Villa Adriana. This is one of the scenes that awaits you. The gem was built after Hadrian assumed power in 117 AD) But the gem that awaits you needs more time. This is Hadrian's Villa, built after Hadrian assumed power in 117 AD. It was then that the Roman Empire was at its maximum power, drawing on Hadrian's talents as a brilliant military commander and politician. Rome had conquered enough territory. With Hadrian, the second Roman emperor born in Spain, came stability. The emperor was a complex and highly-cultured man. His passion for architecture extended to the rebuilding of London, (after the fire) and the building of the Vallum, the large defensive wall at the Scottish border. Hadrian Borrowed from the Greeks Hadrian used the knowledge of architecture of the Greeks and Romans that can be seen in his once-sumptuous villa. Hadrian's touch is everywhere. The villa was built between 118 and 134 AD at the foot of the Tiber River. The town of Tivoli sprung up around this luxurious estate. Unfortunately, the Emperor died at the age of 62. Great thermal baths, with beautiful two-meter tall 'caryatids,' stretch 119 meters and remind us of an Egyptian settlement at Abukir, near Alexandria, where, sadly, Hadrian's friend, Antinoos drowned himself there. The property included a frigidarium, a fishpond, an imperial palace, private Greek and Latin libraries, a small olive grove, hospital (guest house) and villa of the island, once called the Maritime Theatre. There were Greek theatres, a temple dedicated to Venus, and hundreds of magnificent statues. Hadrian even built a Philosophers' Room.
(Another view of Hadrian's villa)
Hadrian supervised all construction personally. Everything is mammoth in size and complicated. A guide might be advised. Almost all in ruin today, this monument to greatness mirrors the intellectual and artistic tastes of a powerful ruler. It is a relic of a gone, but not forgotten, age. It still draws people interested in antiquities from every corner of the world. I'd spend at least a day there. The location is close enough to Rome to travel there and back in a day. Some might even select a hotel in Tivoli to get away from the crush, noise and pollution of Rome. There is a good four-star hotel in the center of Tivoli opposite the temple. The Hotel Sirene Tivoli has 40 guest rooms and is located in the historical center of the town. Preparing for a Picnic at Lido di Ostia When we travel by car, we often stop in at a butcher's or a food market. There we buy fresh bread or local rolls, sliced meats, pate or local cheeses, fruit, drinks and regional pies or cakes. The day we left Tivoli, we did just that. Then we headed for the ring road on the south side of Rome and drove to the coast near the airport for a picnic facing the clear blue waters at Lido di Ostia. There were many young people and families doing the same thing, and there were enough food stands to obtain what we were missing. It was sunny but cool along the water, and we were relaxed as we headed south along the sea to the WWII landing point at Anzio. It was only 45 kilometers away on a road that followed the sea in a perfect straight line. I was surprised at the number of private beaches and plastic looking bars along the peaceful coast. It's a touristy area and some of the bars boast plastic green and uninviting palm trees supposedly to lure you in. Recalling the War Dead at Anzio
(The British war cemetary, Cimatero Communale) Then, without warning, we are in Anzio. Here the beach is crowded, and the fishing fleet is unloading the daily catch. This is a bustling city that rises from the sea as you go inland. I am attracted by the military cemetery sign near the Cimatero Communale, where we stop and look at the white headstones of the British soldiers who lie at rest here. We are told that the US cemetery is a few miles up the coastal Nettuno. But the war museum points out the violence that took place here when the Allies landed on this long natural beach as a surprise. The date was January 22, 1944, but the statues, museums and photographs on the restaurant walls bear evidence to the carnage of Operation Shingle. By June 4th the allies had conquered Rome.
(The Allies landed on the beach on January 22, 1944. A photo reveals the destruction following the battle at Anzio) Anzio flourished as a commercial center since 490 BC. It became Roman in 338 BC and a popular holiday site for the patrician class. There were theatres and temples, and it was considered by Caligula as a site for the capital of the Empire. Emperor Nero was born here. His palace and the city were decorated with statues of marble. This, too, was the city of Popes when Innocent XII made it a favorite of his own. Pius IX spent his summer holiday here every year. The battle of Anzio was a bloody campaign, but the city has risen from the ashes and is now a popular vacation spot with upscale shops, restaurants and hotels for all budgets. We stayed overnight, ate near the Piazza Pia, walked along the commercial harbor, and then headed off to see the rebuilt Abbey at Monte Casino. But that's another story. For hotel accommodations contact: Hotel La Playa www.hotelplaya.it Grand Hotel Dei Cesari…Tel: 06987901 Equipped with pool and private beach.
(The striking rocks off the coast near Capri...a photo to remember) Restaurants serve fish menus of simplicity blended with fantasy, often mixed with anchovies and pecorino cheese. Squid salad with parsley dressing, garlic and local oil or chili peppers are popular here. Miramare
Tel: 0698200260 Anchovies are a favorite in Anzio, and the terracotta containers holding the anchovies, known as "cugnetti," are favorites of Anzio natives. (Click below for more travel)
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