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By Arnie Greenberg, pictured above at the Acropolis Happily, I spent three weeks touring Greece with a few stolen days in Turkey. I traveled from Athens to Rhodes and even visited Crete. What I found in each location was worth writing about. That happens to me when I'm excited, and Greece can be an exciting place to visit, but it takes work. I traveled by bus, by plane and by ship. It was not always easy, since there were constant air strikes (I traveled on Air France), and while Athens is not an easy city to get around at the best of times, this year was total chaos because of plans to house the 2004 Olympics. Roads are half built, a railway line is being put down through the heart of the city, and game venues or housing projects are in various states of completion. Athens was always a difficult place to get around, and now it's almost impossible. I suggest that you wait until after the construction, when the Olympic crowds are gone. Then you'll have the best of the city all to yourself. Plan for next September. Even the weather will be better. It's a difficult city, but more difficult in the heat. Another suggestion: Take a hotel near the Acropolis and within walking distance to the Plaka, where the restaurants are easy to find. It's touristy but easier on the feet. You'll know you're there when the waiters approach you on the street to try their menu. It's a Greek thing that you have to get used to. Nobody travels to Athens without visiting the Acropolis and the famous Pantheon, high above the city. Don't be dismayed if most of the statuary and marble decorations are missing. Ironically, they can be found in the British Museum. But it's a touchy subject for both Greeks and Englishmen, who acquired the 'marbles' when they were taken from Greece by Lord Elgin. But I did see the stately Caryatids, those columns shaped like women, holding up the roof of one of the buildings. For strength and stability, it takes a woman, doesn't it? Our hotel, The Divani Palace Acropolis (253 rooms), was only a few hundred yards from the Acropolis and Plaka. It's a perfect location. The hotel is modern and well run. The breakfast buffet is memorable. It's one of the best I've seen in Greece, and you might want to skip lunch. It is also within walking distance of the magnificent old Odeon Theatre, built centuries ago into the side of the Acropolis. An opera at night with the lights coming on in the city below is truly magical. There are things in this city for everyone, including a mountaintop restaurant on top of Likavitos Hill. The view is magnificent, and I suggest a taxi up and a walk down. Of course, there are numerous museums ready to welcome you. My interest was peaked at the museum dedicated to the art and history of the Cyclades. You can walk from your hotel. There are the usual ethnic museums, archeological sites, and the rebuilt stadium, waiting for the games. Even a modern subway will help when it's completed. Yes, there's a lot to do, and current building points to the fact that there will be more to enjoy in the future. But while it's a smog-filled city teeming with traffic and construction cranes, there is something wonderful about being in a place considered the cradle of civilization. This is, after all, the city where Socrates and Plato walked. This is the city of learning, thought, art and literature. It is a place filled with myths, but it is real, thriving and important. No traveler should miss it. For information on the Divani Palace, visit www.divaniacropolis.gr. (Click below for more travel stories!) |
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