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Arnie Greenberg (Above, the lovely, restored synagogue on the island of Rhodes). Jews in Europe often lived in ghettos. Usually in the center of old towns, these streets were closed off at the end of the day, and the people inside were not allowed out. Jews could work in the town during the day, but at night they lived behind a sealed gate. For the residents, the street became a town within a town. Ghettos were poor, unsanitary places where people clustered around the community's house of worship. The synagogue was called the 'shul' (school). It was a place to gather, study and pray. Often there was a bakery nearby for the manufacture of unleavened bread and a 'mikva' or ritual bath. France still has many synagogues or Jewish quarters. Paris has both, but it's a far cry from the middle 19th century. Pezenas is a pleasant town not far from Beziers in southern France. It was the famous Pezenas fairs that attracted Jews from the region. It had a very active cloth trade. The Jews were allowed to work only in certain trades. They dealt in used clothing and furnishings, pewter and parchment, and since usury was forbidden to Christians, they were moneylenders. Others were doctors, masons, tailors, and bookbinders. During the Renaissance, they were barred from the medical field and pharmacy. In the 17th century, they were excluded from masonry, stone cutting, baking and weaving. There were, however, musicians and Jewish minstrels. The buildings of Pezenas are often ornate, in contrast to the simple structures inside the Porte Faugeres ghetto. It is still moving to walk through the narrow streets once closed by this gate for the night. The remnants of these ancient streets can be visited all over Europe, but they are especially well preserved in southern France. After 1790, Jews settled all over. Certain laws protected them, and synagogues rose, especially in the south. Today, one can go on a tour of the synagogues of Provence and see the remnants of a few ghettos along the way. I had occasion to visit the oldest of the synagogues in France, dating from the 1300's. It's in the Vaucluse, at Carpentras, where there have been Jews living for centuries. The synagogue can be visited by making an appointment or by simply ringing the bell. There's always someone to show you around. Much has been restored, but some of it is being worked on now. It's a small community of Jewish people, but they are proud. Because of the strict regulations, the façade looks like an ordinary house, but inside it's quite interesting. The street reserved for Jews is 88 meters long and once included 168 houses, some as high as eight stories. The Jews had to pay the Papal administration for the right to live there. When the Catholic fathers complained that the domed synagogue roof was higher than the neighboring cathedral, the Jewish community had to lower it. The community painted the inner ceiling pale blue and adorned it with gold stars, so you had the feeling of praying under the heavens. There is still a synagogue in Avignon, on the rue de la Vieille Juiverie, where the Jews used to live. There's one in Cavaillon on rue Hebraique. There's even a museum in the lower level. Another can be seen in Aix-en-Provence, and there's a 19th-century house of worship in Marseille, which was damaged by fire recently. There are remnants of Jewish communities at Arles and Saint-Remy-de-Provence. There's a street in Tarascon called rue des Juifs. It's in bad condition, and few houses have been restored. Add
Narbonne, Toulouse, Mende, Montpellier, Trets and Nimes. They all had Jewish communities
and places of worship. In Cavaillon, the entrance still retains the inscription:
If you go to any of the French tourist offices, you might find a small colored booklet explaining the centers that had or still have Jewish places of worship. Ask for "The Road to Jewish Heritage in the South of France." It's an inexpensive souvenir. I got mine in Carpentras. In the synagogue, remember, men cover their heads. The synagogue usually supplies the necessary 'kippa'. It's a courtesy. When I entered the synagogue in Nice, I was approached by a man busy setting tables. "Are you an Israelite?" he asked, nervously. (There was an armed policeman outside.) "Yes. I just wanted to see the synagogue." "Please," he smiled. "Come back in an hour and have dinner with us." I did, and I return there every summer. Other countries pride themselves in the restored synagogues. I especially enjoyed the one on the island of Rhodes. There are very few members left, but there is always someone to show you around. Athens and Thessalonica still have a definite Jewish presence. Turkey has many interesting synagogues, as many Jews fled there after the Inquisition in the late 15th century. Many were open to the public in 1992, the 500th anniversary of the Inquisition. Spain's synagogues are small and empty. I especially enjoyed returning to the ones in Toledo and Cordoba. There are very few Jews left in Spain. In Italy, I visited the Ghetto, which is still thriving. 'Ghetto' is a stop on the Grand Canal. I saw a tiny synagogue in Sienna with only one worshiper. There's an interesting Temple near the old Ghetto of Rome and one of the most impressive was in Florence. There is a guided tour worth taking as well as a lovely museum. You won't have trouble finding the old Jewish quarters in most major European cities. Anti-Semitism and the war changed everything. During the last half of the 19th century, anti- Semitism arose, while people took sides during the Dreyfus case. Today many of the synagogues are guarded. But with a little effort you can see what has remained. It's worth the effort. Tourism Offices in the cities with synagogues will provide more information: Avignon Carpentras
Marseille Arles Pezenas near Montpellier has a Ghetto (Carriere) that can be seen as it is today. This is the city where Moliere's plays were first staged. (Click
below for more travel stories).
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