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Arnie Greenberg (A magificent tile "monster" created by Antoni Gaudi at the Parc Guell in Barcelona, above) Some say that Barcelona made Gaudi and others say Gaudi made Barcelona. It doesn't matter, but when you visit this charming city for the first time, you become well aware of Gaudi's presence. Born in May 1852, this son of a boilermaker was affected by his surroundings, especially in his father's workshop and the copper tubes that surrounded it. After a number of family deaths, including that of his mother, Gaudi's father moved with Antoni and his little sister to Barcelona. By 1906, Gaudi was fatherless, suffering from delicate health and was on his own. He was fascinated by nature, which inspired his idea of decoration. This 'organic construction' allowed for solutions in projects concerning construction. But it took tenacity and a strong will to overcome opposition to his ideas. Gaudi, an excellent draughtsman, was never a brilliant student. He worked in various architectural offices to pay his tuition and finally became an architect in 1878, beginning his career by designing street lamps for Barcelona's Placa Reial. His first main patron and defender was the industrialist Eusebi Guell I Bacigalupi.
(Parc Guell decorated by colorful flowers) A deep friendship and mutual admiration sprang from their relationship, and it was this friendship that resulted in Gaudi's works, like the Pavillions Guell, Guell Palace, Park Guell and the Guell Colony crypt. Gaudi also created the hunting pavillion near Sitges. Add to this the historical Casa Vicens and El Capricho, which, while influenced by Arabic design, were pure Gaudi. Ultimately,
his revolutionary work began to transform Barcelona.
(The towers of the Sagrada Familia Temple) Gaudi was buried in the Sagrada Family Temple, and the city later decided to complete the construction from Gaudi's drawings. While most of the shell is now complete, it will take many more years to finish this enormous project. Probably the best work Gaudi did before he died was the oversee of the Nativity façade, a miracle of architecture and design with giant heralds announcing the birth of Jesus. The work was incomplete when he died, but many of the drawings and plaster models were lost in a fire during the Spanish Civil War.
(Gaudi's religious imagery) Some
of the studies do remain, and in 1954 construction resumed. And now, the great Temple rises. From the air you can see the entire enclosure. The bell towers rise high, and inside there are completed sections, like the central nave of the crypt. There will be 18 towers, four of them from 92 to 112 metres high. In addition, there will be each of the 12 apostles represented on the façade. It is incredible to think that one can climb to the top of the bell towers, as their interiors are spiral staircases.
(a drawing for Gaudi's spectacular Casa Mila) The Association of Devout Followers of St. Joseph was set on raising the money for completion from donations, which held up progress from time to time, as did a fire in the temple during the revolution. But readers should consider that the Catalan architecture of Barcelona is also the work of other architects. On many streets you can see unusual designs, one more beautiful than the other, adding to the personality that is peculiar to Barcelona.
(Gaudi's other-worldly Casa Mila) If you are only in the city for a brief time, I suggest a visit the the Palau de la Musica Catalana on San Pere Mes Alt. This building is not only fascinating from the outside, but the inside is unusual because of its colors, beauty, sculpture and use of stained glass. They architect Domenech solved the problem of acoustics by creating baffles in the seats that keep the sound pure. Then, of course there is the wonderful, smaller neo-gothic building projected by J. Puig Cadaflach, originally designed by Pere Romeu. It was supposed to resemble the 'Chat de Noir' in Paris with a look of Montmartre and a drinking place for bohemians. The financier Ramon Casas agreed to call it Els Quatro Gats. It soon became a meeting place for painters, writers and political personalities. It was here that the 'Picasso Gang' frequented and now, over one hundred years later, Els Quatro Gats is a Modernista Mecca for people who want great Catalon food in a distinctly Barcelona flavor. There
is a bar, of course, but also home cooking, live piano music and a gallery for
the best local artists. You can purchase a book that tells the restaurant's history or a T shirt with a design peculiar to the welcoming restaurant. Barcelona is different -- young, alive and what we might call a 'late' city because dinner usually starts after 10 p.m.…Some even recommend 11 p.m. as a good time to eat. Visit the Gothic quarter and walk up Las Ramblas. Barcelona is a joy and the early architects certainly made it unique.
(An artist paints a religious work on a large street canvas) But there are many other museums and sites to visit including the Stadium and recent Olympic installation. Spend a day at the Musee Picasso on Carrer Montcada, 15. Here you'll see the early work of this Spanish genius. The building is a Catalan-Gothic masterpiece, and while you're there, drop in to a tapas bar for a delicious local meal. I suggest El Roble on Lluis Antuniz or Cristal City on Balmes which also sells books. Also
recommended : Another
day trip, just outside the city, is the great Monastery at Montserrat high above
the city. But I'll leave that or another day. (Click
below for more travel).
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