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The Pleasures of Eating Your Way Across France By
Arnie Greenberg When I think of France, I include French cooking, of course. It is amazing how many dishes we consume or vary that are basically French. Our culinary vocabulary is sprinkled with French names, and although we have created variations of the French offerings, there is something French in many of our menu delights. I have never had a bad Salad Nicoise, I have enjoyed Ratatouille, especially the Provencale variety made with eggplant, onion, zuccini and peppers. Beef Bourguignon is well known, and the French have created their own special crepes, different from pancakes in many ways. In Canada we eat Fiddleheads. In France we call them Tetes de Violin. Add garlic and you have magic! Tomatoes, once only an ornamental plant, play a big part of French cooking. A Quiche Lorraine can be found on menus around the world. We incorporate words in our cookbooks like bouillon, canapés, bisque, mousse and soufflé. My wife swears by French bread. She insists that a baguette tastes like a baguette only in France.Clams don't sound as delicious as poulards, and poireaux has a nicer ring than leeks. Cooking Is 'King' in France In France, cooking is king, and when I looked at Google recently, it listed 1,670,000 French cooking sites. And the most often included ingredients are wine, cheese, olive oil, olives, garlic and goat cheese. But there's more. France is divided into about 20 "Districts," each with its own specialty. There are mountainous regions, rugged coastal areas, and wonderful rivers. Each has its own tone, its own tempo, and its own flavors. Each also has its own gastronomical delights. You may not enjoy all of them. I can think of many I would shun. I'm not ready for blood pudding, not big on snails, and tripe doesn't turn me on. As a matter of fact, I didn't try pate de foie gras until recently. I was amazed and rue the day I first turned it down. After all, it's basically goose liver. The problem was that I knew how it was obtained. Now I know the controversy about foie gras. I know the goose is force fed and that his swollen liver is what the producers are after. I know about humane societies and am aware of the fact that the world has millions of people who won't eat meat products at all. One client of mine recently refused to eat anything that had a face. One said she wouldn't eat anything that 'had a mother.' But aside from the attitudes, I must tell you that if you care to try garnished pate de foie gras with a cold white wine, you are in for a treat. What Is Foie Gras? What is it? It's 'fat liver,' a specialty of northeastern Alsace or central Perigord. The enlarged liver is the result of four or five months of overeating and lack of exercise. The bird is killed and the liver is soaked in milk, water or port. It is drained, marinated in Armagnac, Port or Madeira plus seasoning, and then baked. What results is delicious and expensive. Originally an ancient Egyptian delicacy, it came from geese migrating to the Nile. The geese spent time rebuilding their energy for the return trip north, but the flavor was discovered and…'voila.' Later, the Romans discovered that it was delicious when eaten with figs. For a long time the Jews of Central Europe kept the secret of how to make foie gras, which is allowed under Jewish kosher laws. In western France, the Alsatians began producing terrines and pates from geese. Louis XV and Louis XVI achieved fame with a certain goose pate, and it is said that famous authors like George Sand, Alexander Dumas and even the composer Rossini were inspired by the delicacy. Once refrigeration was developed, foie gras' prestige was spread around the world. A Strict Labeling Process Foie gras must be labeled according to ingredients, date, temperature and batch. The term 'fois gras' is reserved solely for a product, which contains 'fatty liver.' It is divided into two 'lobes' or halves. Some can be a mixture of 75%, known as a 'parfait.' Medallions, pates, mousses and gelatins contain 50% of foie gras. There can be a mélange or mixture of types. You can select your favorite. Duck is smaller and more 'rustic' and stronger in earthy flavors. Goose is more delicate, gentle and creamy. Foie gras truffle must contain at least 3% of truffles. Raw foie gras, or 'cru,' is generally vacuum-packed; the color depends on the diet of the goose. It must be firm to the touch and can be stored for a week at 1- 3 degrees C. If it comes in a can or a jar, it can be stored for several months. Some 'long conservation' foie gras can be kept in tins or jars for several years at room temperature. It is best to remove the pate from the refrigerator about 20 minutes before serving. After that, the color will fade. Cut it with an unserrated knife that was rinsed in hot water and wiped after cutting each slice. Place it on a bed of ice and serve as a starter at 50-70g per person. As a main course, that amount can be doubled. How to Eat Foie Gras Foie gras is best with a country bread or baguette or with sweet, dry or red wines. Heady wines from Cahors are best. Serve with charlotte potatoes, caramelized apples, in a salad, or with pasta (tagliatelle) and morel mushrooms. I tasted foie gras in the central Perigord region of France at Sarlat. Almost every grocer or butcher in the region sells it. One can pay $30-50 for a good quality jar, but it is worth the experience. A suggestion is the Restaurant au Delices de Lauralice in the old town. It's best in the original regional ambiance. For recipes and more information, go to the web or consult the Comite Interprofessionnel Des Palmipedes a Foie Gras (CIFOG) at 44 rue d'Alesia, Paris 75014 France. Tel: 33 1 53 91 44 59. Fax: 33 1 53 91 44 70. (Click below for more travel).
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