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(The famous Ponte Vecchio bridge in Florence once carried rulers from the Pitti Palace to government buildings. Today it is filled with many tourist shops. Photo courtesy the Italian Government Tourist Board). By
Arnie Greenberg When thinking of Italy, one always thinks of Toscana or Tuscany. When I think of Tuscany, I always think of Florence. There is something magical about this popular city, and the magic gets to you the minute you arrive. I first came to Florence years ago by bus from Rome. Now I go almost every year, and each time I see differences. Florence has been changing since the days of the earliest settlers. Once the banking center of the Italian states and much of Europe, it is now a mecca for tourists. There are many upscale hotels, but there are "albergos" for the tourists who want a simple room in the town center. I suggest a reservation in advance, and if possible, leave your car in a parking lot, garage, or at home. True, there are places to visit outside the city and a car can help, but there are tour busses that will take you just about anywhere for the day. You can take a day trip to Pisa or Siena or even Lucca, the ancient Tuscan capital. My favorite day trip is to Fiesole, just outside the city in the mountains. You can actually get there by city bus. I'm sure the hotel staff will tell you how. Once there (the trip up is breathtaking), you will see wonderful villas perched on the hillsides. In the main square, there's a statue of Garibaldi shaking hands with Victor Emmanuel, symbolizing the completion of the unification of Italy in the 19th century about 135 years ago. The two men on horseback make for a wonderful souvenir photograph. Garibaldi, the red-shirted man of the people, and Victor Emmanuel, the man who became Italy's first king, are waiting for you! Just off the square is a wonderful Etruscan and Roman museum built around the outdoor amphitheatre perfectly re-created. Imagine the view as the actors took to the stage. The backdrop is one to remember, and a view from the opposite side gives you a bird's-eye snapshot of Florence all ochre and red in the Arno Valley below. It was on the side of these hills that Da Vinci first tested his winged contraption that would allow men to fly. I've examined a model of that first airplane. It's no wonder people died or were injured trying to rise above those Etruscan hills. Da Vinci himself only watched from afar. Years later the art critic Bernard Berenson invited guests to his cliffside chateau, 'I Tati'. Among those who discussed modern art with him were Gertrude Stein and her brother Leo, who brought back ideas about collecting to Paris, where they were living at that time. These ideas led to the search for Cézanne, which eventually led to Picasso and Matisse. One can say that the notion of collecting for the Steins was born in the hills above Florence. Back in the city, I toured the St. Lorenzo market, that warren of canvass-covered stalls that take over the streets of one section of the fabled city. There are leather shoes and jackets to be had for a song. Silk scarves are under $10 each, and the Florentine paper, while ornate, is a wonderful souvenir. Of course, the best-quality merchandise is found elsewhere in the modern shops that boast the names of Fendi or Dolce & Gabana. There is also a trendy shopping mart on the highway about an hour south of Florence, but it's crowded and more complicated to get to. My hotel was the Croce de Malta, which is a wonderful oasis in the center of the city -- almost directly across from the Santa Maria Novella, within walking distance from the train station. This is a popular hotel location. The Croce de Malta (Maltese Cross) is a rebuilt residence, fairly austere from the outside, but it boasts an inner courtyard with a sparkling pool and a restaurant that you will long remember. Visit www.crocedimaltaflorence.com. Email to: info@crocedimaltaflorence.com. The hotel is a four-star operation, and the prices are no bargain, but if you want to be able to walk to the Duomo, the Arno, Ponte Vecchio, the Academia (where David awaits) or the Uffizzi (one of the great museums of Europe), this is the place for you. I'd call ahead for a reservation. Ask for a room facing the pool. During the winter months finding a nice hotel is easier. I always say that walking around Florence is like walking in a jewelry shop. There are things to see at every turn. I stand in awe in front of the Baptistry doors, the bell tower, the magnificent synagogue, and the Santa Croce, where many of the great Italians lie buried in the walls. I walk along the Arno and think of the painting of Dante as he spies his beloved Beatrice going by. It may be a fable, but it stimulates my romantic sense. On the Ponte Vecchio I admire the jewelry shops from the outside. I gaze up at the walkway that once carried rulers from the Pitti Palace to the government buildings. The stalls were once butcher shops, but the odors offended the Medici and were removed by order. Below, I watch the rowers in their tiny boats practicing on the smooth waters. The light on the river reflects on the yellow buildings. The city is alive with people eating ice cream, taking pictures and talking on cell phones. Florence is a modern city teeming with motorbikes, restaurants for all tastes. Ask the concierge to show you where Il Latini Restaurant is located. There are too many cars, some pollution, noise, and shoppers everywhere. It is not a place to relax as one races around from site to site. But it is a city you'll want to see again and again. It is romantic. It is historical. It is a place where dreams come true! (Click below for more travel stories).
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