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Eating in Barcelona: Be Sure to Come Late By
Arnie Greenberg This is a city where eating out is never a problem. The food is well prepared, nicely presented, and within everyone's budget. Whether you are in the old quarter or at the waterfront, fish is king, but the varied menus we tried were always to our taste. Where to find tapas is the best place to start.
(Eating in Barcelona is part of the charm of life in the Catalan city) The closest way I can describe tapas is as exotic hors d'ouevres or eating around the hors d'ouvres table at a wedding. There is everything from raw and cooked fish to salad, cheese, vegetables from the grill, eggs, olives, sausage and cheeses. They are out on the counter, skewered with long toothpicks for all to see. The Waiter Counts Your Toothpicks You fill your plate with hot or cold tapas, take a seat or stand at the bar with a drink, coffee or sangria, a wine-based starter, and eat to your heart's content. When done, the waiter counts the large toothpicks and you pay per toothpick. While you can eat a whole meal there, I always felt that most clients had 3-4 tapas, a few drinks and then went out for dinner. That should cost about 12-14 Euros for two. Another day, two American coffees and two glasses of wine came to 7.80 Euros.
(Magical tapas, hot or cold, can be a snack...or a meal)
Tapas Bars in Every Corner of the City Tapas bars are in every corner of the city. Our favorite is called Bilbao Berria and is situated on the square of the Cathedral, Placa Nova, 3 in the center of the city. It's a great meeting place and shopping area with high-fashion shops and museums all around.
What better activity can you think of but eating...and eating tapas can be infectious.
There is so much color and activity in this modern and large restaurant that there's
always room for one more. They even have tables outside with umbrellas to shield
you from the sun. I'm sure you'll find your own quiet corners as we did, but here are a few other suggestions.
(Bill Wallace, the friendly owner -- along with wife and cook Carmen -- of Cervessaria. Their restaurant is a small neighborhood eatery) Cervessaria at 35, Calle de la Rambla. The people who run this small neighborhood eatery are charming. We fell upon it when walking from the Maritime Museum. At a corner, a lady chef was standing on her break. When she saw us looking around, she asked if we wanted a sandwich. Her suggestion was almost next door. She and her husband were the owners. Carmen was Spanish, but her waiter-husband, Bill Wallace, was from Washington, and his help in English sealed the deal. We had an amazing soup, salads and beefsteak for an incredible 8 Euros. Looking for an Apartment Where Picasso Lived Bill was very helpful when I told him I was searching for an apartment where Picasso once lived. I said it was on Terre des Altes. Bill pointed out that that very street had been changed to Calle Nou de la Rambla. The restaurant was at number 35. Picasso and friends lived at # 10. It was here that he painted his famous Celestina, who lived next door.
(Dana, Arnie's wife, enjoying a meal at Cervessaria) We enjoyed meeting Bill and Carmen, and a week later we returned with our daughter. The price had gone up by 2 Euros as it was Saturday, but it was still one of the best bargains in Barcelona. Carmen can cook for us any day. Call them for directions at 627 920 051. It's an unpretentious place with a dining room for about 30 in a quiet space with ancient stone walls. In front is a bar, which is family run as Bill's son takes his turn there in the mornings. Other
Suggestions El
Bitxo is a tiny tapas bar with room for about 20 people. It faces the entrance
to the Palau de Musica on
(Centfocs is a good place to stop for a Catalan lunch) Centfocs, meaning a hundred lights, is a perfect Catalan lunch restaurant, beautifully laid out in art deco style at 12 Balmes, a short walk from Plaza Catalunya. Don't
be surprised if it's crowded. It's a very popular place for working people from
the area, but the wait is worth it. About 18 Euros per person for a full meal,
beautifully prepared and served. This is certainly a restaurant of quality. The
fish is memorable.
Elche, named after a town in Spain, is an old establishment specializing traditional
fish, Catalan dishes and paella. You must try this savory rice-based dish before
you leave the city. Els Quatro Gats: My Favorite
(The historic setting of Els Quatro Gats, Arnie's favorite Barcelona restaurant might possibly be yours, too) Els Quatro Gats. This is my absolute favorite restaurant in Spain. I go there often, and this past month I brought along my family visiting for a few days. It's the atmosphere and tradition that gets you, and for only 15 Euros during the week you can have a more than memorable lunch…with wine included. But leave room for their deserts. They are something else! This is the restaurant made famous by Picasso. His pictures are everywhere. And it's in a Modernista building that is unique. See my other articles on Els Quatro Gats and for more information go to www.4gats.com Telephone
for reservations at Let me know if you discover any other great spots to eat, as I'll be going back to Barcelona soon.
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