A Romantic Lunch at the Hotel Danieli in Venice

By Arnie Greenberg, ultours@gmail.com

What could be more romantic than lunch on a shaded terrace, looking out over the Grand Canal? What could be better than white-gloved waiters fussing over you while you sip the local wine and eat local specialties?

This could happen to you…for a price.

I had no intention of lunching at the Hotel Danieli. I had passed this old gothic, turreted building on previous trips, but I had never ventured inside. This time, I'd try it, even if only for lunch.

The experience is one I will long remember.

I waited for my friends in the sumptuous lobby. Visitors from Japan kept arriving to "look around," but they were politely told, "No tours."

A Former 14th-Century Palace

I admired the décor in this fourteenth-century palace owned, I'm told, by the Dandolo family, descendants of the first doge, Enrico Dandolo, the same man who conquered Constantinople.

Remember, Venice was a powerful naval power in those days. But even great powers fall, and when Venetian power waned in the 1790's, the palace was altered.

It was rented in part to a wealthy Venetian, Guiseppe Dal Niel, who eventually turned it into a first-class hotel. Hence the name Danieli.

Some of the most famous intellectuals came to visit, such as George Sand, Charles Dickens, Wagner and Goethe.

And the rich and famous still come. Of course, I didn't recognize anyone special like Steven Spielberg, who stayed here.

The hotel was enlarged and modernized, but the charm of the original palace still exits. Over $2 million was spent recently to spruce it up.

I think it was money well spent, with a stucco marble floor, the golden staircase, a wonderful multi-storied atrium and Murano glass chandeliers.

Sumptuous Furniture, Antiques & Frescoes

Add to that the sumptuous furniture, antiques and frescoes and, voila, a charming, but expensive oasis by the Adriatic, all complete with gondolas floating by.

And the refurbishing goes on each year with additions and changes. It's an ongoing project.

My friends finally arrived, and we took the elevator to the rooftop terrace. Here we were met by a well dressed maitre 'd," who showed us to our table.

Our lunch was simple but rewarding. The tomato and mozzarella salad was delicately sprinkled with the best Italian olive oil. The white wine was pure pleasure, and the fresh baked bread was truly mouth watering.

All of this was followed by slices of eggplant, fried but soft. The tasty sauce was prepared with lightly fried fresh tomatoes steeped in white wine.

Memorable Lemon Tart & Fresh Coffee

Even the lemon tart and fresh coffee were memorable. It was a meal to remember…and all within sight of the Piazza San Marco, the Church of Santa Maria Della Salut, and the ferryboats racing to a distant Lido and Isola di San Michele, where one could visit the graves of Ezra Pound or Igor Stravinsky.

I was told that on certain days one could see the distant Dolomite Mountains from the hotel terrace. I saw only Venice on that hazy summer's day, but I was content.

I bid my friends adieu and took the stairs coming down, so that I could feel the ambiance of the rooms on each floor. I was not, however prepared for the hot, misty laundry on the lower level, where I saw soiled and steamy sheets.

But I missed the palatial suites. I had gone too far, but I did see more than the average person sees with only a stay for lunch, and I have pictures to prove it.

I must add, however, that the cost of that lunch was about the same as the cost of my three-star hotel (about $105.60 Canadian) a short bus ride away in Mestre!

For more information about the Hotel Danieli, visit www.danielihotel.com. The hotel is located at Riva Degli Schiavoni 4196 (near the Bridge Sighs).

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