|
The Treacherous Roads of Sunbathed Corsica By
Arnie Greenberg I knew very little about the island of Corsica, except that it was a sore spot between the Italians and the French and was the birthplace of Napoleon. However, I did some reading, and I studied a map. When I did go, I was pleasantly surprised. I did make a few mistakes, but I'll correct them next time. Yes, there will be a next time. Corsica holds fond memories and is definitely recommended. You can rent a villa, an apartment or a house. You can move around from hotel to hotel by car, but you should know something about the roads and the important sites. Innumerable Beaches Corsica is an island of innumerable beaches, majestic mountains, sunbathed landscapes, and strong traditions. It is like traveling in a mini-continent inhabited by spirited people who are justly proud of their traditions. You can fly into any of four international airports or go by sea into any of 13 ports. I chose to take an overnight car ferry from Marseille to Bastia. Having my own car would give me easier access to the different towns. It was a journey of 170 km from France and half as much via Italy. We were entering the harbor at Bastia when I awoke. We chose to debark and find a restaurant, which proved easy. Our first destination was over a winding road to the coastal city of St. Florent, set against a mountainous backdrop. We discovered our first mountainous terrain on the secondary road to Ille Rouse. It was narrow and picturesque for only 25 miles. The town was small and uninspiring. We continued on the wider N 14 to the coastal city of Calvi. Built overlooking the Gulf of Calvi, we enjoyed our view from the cliffside Hotel Erasme. The pool at this 3-star hotel was worth the stop. I don't remember a 4-star hotel anywhere. Told to Be Careful We were told to be careful on the D 81 from Calvi to Ajaccio via Piana, a total distance of about 100 miles. It proved to be the longest, most dangerous hundred miles I ever drove, but what made it worthwhile was the view. The two-lane road generally followed the coast. For much of the drive, it was a mile above the sea, filled with cracks and potholes -- and remember, we were driving on the outside, going south. We had to slow down every time a car came from the opposite direction, and if we encountered a truck or an occasional bus, we had to stop let him squeak by. To add to the tension, there was no shoulder or guard railing on the edge. It was truly a white-knuckle drive most of the way. We were O.K. for the first 30 km as we left Calvi at 6 a.m. The oncoming traffic from Ajaccio wouldn't meet us 'til later. But by the time that traffic met us we were on the most winding part of the journey. About half way to our destination, we spotted a lovely hillside hotel near the coastal town of Piana. We stayed for the night with dinner in view of the picturesque Tower of Pinottoli and the tiny harbor, watching the sun fall into the sea before our eyes. The setting was worth the day's ordeal. The road rose again after Piana and afforded an even more spectacular view. We entered the famed city of Ajaccio about noon. A quick tour of the town proved uninspiring, and I was surprised that I could see only one statue of Napoleon, their native son. We opted for an ordinary beach hotel on the road to Iles Sanguinaires stretching out to sea. The June sun was taking its toll. During the night we slept with doors open at both ends of the unit, hoping for a gust of wind that never came. Air conditioning was unheard of at this 2-star resort. Heading for the Mountains After a day of swimming and hiding from the sun, we aborted our plan to circle the island and headed into the mountainous interior for a breathe of cool air. The major highway back to Bastia went high through Corte, which looked pleasant enough, but we were headed back to Bastia, where we arrived on time to take a ferry to Livorno, Italy for a different type of holiday. The heat, the roads and the terrain were hindrances, and we did not get to Bonifacio at the southern tip. I also realized that had I done the trip in the opposite direction, I would have felt safer on those treacherously narrow roads. Going in May might be cooler, too. I will go back to Corsica one day. I want to see the southern and eastern parts of the island. They are closer to the sea and less curvy. As difficult as it is, I like the adventure…and the views are spectacular. For more information contact Agence du Tourisme de la Corse, Fax (33)95 51 14 40. (Click below for more travel).
| ||
 |
