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Discovering Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic By
Arnie Greenberg (From the dizzying heights of the famous castle, the tiled red roofs, seen above, remind one of a cubist painting set in one of the most peaceful valleys anywhere). Don't be put off by the name, and don't fret if you've never heard of it. Cesky Krumlov, (pronounced chesky) is one of the most exciting finds in all of Europe. It's a tiny medieval village dating back to 500 BC, but even if we accept that there were people here as early as 150 BC, it still qualifies as a truly ancient city. And if Krumme Aul means crooked-shaped meadow as my guide explained, it is a fitting name, since the town is located on a crooked-shaped meadow or lea, encircled by the snake-like, meandering Vltava River, known also as the Moldau. This comes to mind since the musical composition by Smetana called 'The Moldau' rings in one's ears as you walk on the curving water's edge. And
all around are pastel-colored buildings with red roofs.
(At night, the castle, which dominates the city, takes on an other-wordly appearance). The castle dominates the city, drawing thousands of tourists daily. It is hardly a guarded secret, but North American travelers usually opt for the larger cities, spas and resorts. However, if I were asked, I'd say Cesky Krumlov is one of the most spectacular places in Europe, if not the most. It was the center of activity for many wealthy families after the beginning of the 13th century. The first were the Rozmberk's (referred to as Rosenberg). They inherited the castle after the Lords of Krumlov died out in 1302. The Rozmberk's coat of arms became emblazoned with a five-petaled rose, a symbol of the five sons of the great family. They stayed here and continued building the castle until 1602. The family moved in the highest aristocratic circles and became leaders in education, politics and fine arts. During their residency, the castle took on an appearance of Renaissance nobility. William, whose great town buildings still exist, achieved this. About an Hour's Drive North of Lintz Cesky is about an hour's drive north of Lintz, Austria in the region known as Bohemia. Other great castles and towns grew along the river, but none with the mystery and aura of Krumlov. Most visitors know only Budweiser, the great beer center, but the gem is Krumlov. Yet building a town and castle of these proportions was costly, and after 1600 it had to be sold to the Habsburg Rudolf II. His son was mad and murdered the daughter of a local barber. The Emperor Ferdinand II gave the estate to the Eggensbergs, who lived here for over a century. Ferdinand created the castle as a center for the arts, social events, concerts, masked balls and hunts. He especially advanced music, opera and ballet. His baroque theatre, still in use today, was built in a 5th-century courtyard. But in 1719 a German family, the Schwarzernbergs, took over. They continued building until 1947, when the castle was taken over by the state. Visit the Castle's Spectacular Rooms The castle was added to over the years and boasts some spectacular rooms like the St. George chapel, the masquerade hall with mid 18th-century drawings, a baroque theatre with revolving stage that is still used today, the carriage room with a golden coach used in a ceremony at the Vatican. There is an art gallery, richly decorated Renaissance rooms, and a wonderfully ornate hall of mirrors. Outside at the entrance is a moat with enclosures for live brown bears still in residence as they have been for centuries. Even the Wenceslas cellar (now a gallery) is open to the public, as is the wonderfully designed gardens from which you can see spectacular views of the city rooftops. And speaking of the city, it is a warren of white and pastel buildings set on winding, narrow, cobbled streets and over walking bridges that have been here for centuries. One can visit souvenir shops, typical restaurants, art galleries and hotels of every price. There
is something magical about the red roofs and escutcheons on the houses in the
old town, especially when seen from above. The Old Inn Offers Great Value We chose to offload our luggage outside of town and walk to the main square and The Old Inn, a newly reconstructed, four-star hotel, which offers great value with specially prepared local dishes in a rustic but comfortable dining room. Here, too, are unique catacombs with vaults dating to the 13th century. The Renaissance-dated building may be old, but the rooms afford travelers with the great comforts of Bohemian hospitality. While there, I visited the Egon Scheile Art Center, redesigned from an old brewery. With 4,000 square meters of visiting space, one can enjoy displays of Schiele and Chagall in comfort. There is no city as magical and visual than Cesky Krumlov. Wars were fought somewhere else. What you see here is the growth of over five centuries. You feel the age, but you experience a modern, refurbished town. Just walking along the river brings stirrings of history. There is no town like it. IF
YOU GO… (Click below for more travel).
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