The World Has Discovered the Cayman Islands

By Arnie Greenberg, ultours@aol.com

(Above, a painted turtle on the beach in the Cayman Islands)

I have a long history with the Cayman Islands. I first discovered them as a perfect place for a quiet holiday about 25 years ago. It was different then, before it was discovered.

On the same road where I once carried a flashlight on my way to the nearest restaurant, this time I found bumper-to-bumper traffic, overloaded with fun-seekers, all noisy and ready to party.

On a beach where there were only two hotels, private villas and lots of open spaces, there are now condos, upscale hotels and people, people, people. At the west end of Seven Mile Beach, there's a public beach, but stay away on weekends. It's noisy, crowded and uninviting.

On the Road to Seven Mile Beach

I never thought I'd say this about this flat, clean and sleepy island. The road in to Georgetown from Seven Mile Beach is complete with gasoline stations, fast food joints and shopping plazas to entice spenders.

Even once-sleepy Georgetown, with its few restaurants, has now mushroomed into a center for shoppers and gawkers. The arrival of the cruise boats made the difference. The hordes descend on the island most mornings. It's at least 5 p.m. before the natives get their island back.

Cayman is now a populated island, inhabited by wealthy vacationers or condo owners. It is also teeming with retirees, seeking a place in the sun.

There are, of course, tourist sites to visit, including the Botanical Garden, the Turtle Farm, Pedro's Castle and a long list of dive shops, boat tours and even a submarine.

There are native crafts and duty-free shops with unique jewelry made of Cayman black coral. There's a chance to swim with live stingrays, fish in warm tropical waters, and even participate in Pirate Week.

The Barefoot Man Sings Island Tunes

The Barefoot Man who has been singing island tunes for 30 years you can hear at Rum Point Monday to Friday. You can play golf at two awesome golf courses, take scuba diving lessons, or take a horseback ride along the moonlit beach.

You can even release a turtle to the sea for a price or spot a blue Iguana on the Mastic Trail. There's an old lighthouse, now a restaurant, a place to film blowholes, or an old shipwreck, now a museum.

There's even a community near West Bay called Hell. You can go to the post office there and send a card to a friend, "from Hell."

There are gift shops, souvenir shops, camera and art shops, and restaurants galore. The restaurants alone are a good reason to visit this sun-baked island.

The Cayman Islands is made up of three islands -- Grand Cayman with her capital, Georgetown, Little Cayman, ten miles long, and Cayman Brac, 12 miles by one mile. There is service by boat and air to the islands.

Grand Cayman is 100 square miles and is home to 40,000 English-speaking people. Its temperature ranges from 60 to 86 degrees. I found it tolerable in the winter and impossible in summer, even with air conditioning.

Beware the Hurricane Season

Beware of the hurricane season from late June to November. October is a rainy month.

I go there often for family reasons, and when I'm there, I seek out island delights at two favorite restaurants. I do suggest that you scout out for your favorites. There are many to choose from, but here are my recommendations:

The Cracked Conch by the sea at Northwest Pont Road (telephone: 945 5217. I never go to Cayman without visiting this oceanfront, modest, traditional eatery close to where I stay.

Here you will find fresh catch of the day, turtle steak with coconut rum sauce. You can try jerk or conch dishes and Black Angus filets. You can also stop here for lunch or Sunday brunch, too.

The restaurant will even cater to your dietary wishes. The Cracked Conch has been featured in Gourmet Magazine and on Burt Wolf's popular TV show.

The Crow's Nest is the place where I feel most at home. It's partly because of the staff, the size of the restaurant, and the quiet location. You can't miss it as you travel east along Church Street (telephone: 949 9366).

On the Sandy South Sound

Here on the sandy South Sound only a few minutes from Georgetown you will find food and service second to none on the island. The Crows Nest is a true Caribbean restaurant, serving red snapper, fried coconut shrimp, beef jerk specialties, mouth-watering steaks, different pastas, and even a mouth-watering burger for the fast-food lovers.

It's an excellent choice for a family or with friends. We selected it a few times…and even as our New Years Eve choice. We were not disappointed. Even the price was right.

I'm sure the recognition the eatery recently received from USA Today was well worth it. I especially remember the kindness showed to my daughter by the maitre'd, who sat and chatted with us on the patio as the sea dashed to the nearby shore. It was a moment to remember. Everyone talks about The Crow's Nest, and you will, too.

Others worth mentioning:
Kaibo Yacht Club at Rum Point. You go by Ferry from Seven Mile Beach to Cayman Kai. It's out of the way, but with wonderful service, even if I found it a trifle expensive (telephone for ferry and reservations 947 9975).

The Grand Old House, South Church Street (telephone: 949 9333);

The Lobster Pot, in town, (telephone 949 2736);

The Warf Restaurant (Seven at Mile Beach), (telephone 949-2231)