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By George Medovoy, Editor The quaint, vintage cabins are hidden away under a grove of old-growth trees on the north bank of the Carmel River, just a heartbeat away from Carmel's center, here in Northern California. In a village known for upscale, boutique inns, the Carmel River Inn offers a lodging experience that will transport you back to another time and a rustic setting, when writers like John Steinbeck would come here to think and write. Today, the only trace of those heady days is the gaily-painted cottages built in 1937. If you'd like to mix Ocean Avenue "chic" with California's literary ferment in a rustic setting, then the Carmel River Inn is your destination. "What makes this such a unique and unusual experience for a traveler," says general manager Matthew D'Attilio, "is that it has changed very little over the years since it was constructed in 1937. "What this provides for our guests is an experience that in essence transports them back…to a simpler time, to a period where…life was not as complex as it is today." The "simpler time" referred to by D'Attilio recalls people in the Salinas Valley coming over the hill to "enjoy the coast…and get away from the heat in the valley." In the early 1950s, literary figures like John Steinbeck began appearing at the inn with friends, says D'Attilio, "to basically tell stories and work on their different literary styles." Steinbeck also brought his two sons along, and while he and his friends would while away the time chatting under the tall oaks, his sons could steal away to roam the banks of the Carmel River or go floating on their inner tubes. "It was a very special place for the children," D'Attilio notes, showing me a draft of a story about those youthful adventures, "Where Moses Walked," written by Thomas Steinbeck, one of Steinbeck's sons. The younger Steinbeck has also released a collection of short stories about the Big Sur coast and his time in the Salinas Valley called "Down to a Soundless Sea." "He truly has his father's gift of story-telling," says D'Attilio. Besides the elder Steinbeck, there were other writers who took advantage of the anonymity of the Carmel River Inn -- people like John O'Hara, Edna Ferber and George S. Kaufman. The inn also hosted singers Joan Baez and Bob Dylan, but the best story of all involved Sean Penn and Madonna, who were married at Carmel's upscale Highlands Inn - but secreted themselves away to the Carmel River Inn's Thomas Larkin Cottage to escape the paparazzi! Beyond all these names, D'Atillio points out that the legendary photographer Ansel Adams, who lived with his wife in the Carmel Highlands, gave photographic workshops at the inn. They would sometimes do hands-on photographic work here and at other times would drive down to Pt. Lobos or Asilomar. The inn has 24 cottage units under old-growth oak, willow and cypress trees as old as 75 years. Some of the cottages are freestanding, while others are duplex units. Thirteen come with kitchenettes, including microwaves, and three have full kitchens, making them ideal for families with children. Seven cottages also come with wood-burning stoves…and generous supplies of wood. Each cottage bears the name of a prominent California personality, including some associated with Monterey, California's first capital. So you can choose from the Sebastian Viscaino Cottage, the Henry Miller Cottage, the Ansel Adams Cottage, the John Steinbeck Cottage, and so forth. Many of the cottages have their own flowered gardens, adding a nice touch of color to the surroundings. Out front, facing Highway 1, are 19 standard motel units, which were added in 1955 along with a swimming pool heated to 85 degrees in winter. From the highway, this motel is what one sees at first, as it shields the cottages from view and casting a rather deceptive look to everything. Cottage interiors are simply, but comfortably, appointed. Depending on the size of the room you select, you will find double, queen and king-size beds. The rooms also feature some of D'Attilio's black-and-white photos, a subject that fascinates him. His work includes classic San Francisco, Yosemite and peninsula scenes. Turning to the literary giants who identified with the inn, D'Attilio expresses what can only be described as an uninhibited exuberance. "All of these people were at some point or another in touch with Tom Steinbeck's father," he says. "And that is what is fascinating…to think that at this location, all of these people were together, exchanging stories… "When you stay in
these cottages, it's that old phrase, 'If walls could talk.' And
these would have many stories." Sample rates: Estrada Family Cottage (1 bedroom, 2 single beds, shower), starting at $85. Fanny Osbourne Duplex: (1 bedroom, king-size bed, fireplace, kitchenette, dinette, tub-shower bath) starting at $120. Pets welcome, $25 per night, per pet. The Carmel River runs about six months out of the year. Downtown Carmel dinner suggestion: Bouchee Restaurant and Wine Bar, off Ocean Avenue in the center of town. Unmatched contemporary cuisine - Carmel's finest -- in an upbeat, French bistro setting with great service. Call (831) 626-7880 or visit www.boucheecarmel.com. Reservations recommended. CARMEL EVENTS (Click below for more travel stories!)
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