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George & Ninette Medovoy, Editors When you tell your waiter that you loved the dessert and he brings you another one courtesy of the chef, you just know that you're on a cruise. We could go on and on because the examples are as plentiful as the heavenly soufflés we enjoyed on the "Liberty," Carnival Cruise Line's newest ship, a virtual floating resort with lounges and bars, a large children's play facility, a spa, and four swimming pools, including a 214-foot-long water slide.
(The "Liberty's" 214-foot-long water slide is fun under the Caribbean sun) All made to please some 3,000 guests -- retired, middle-aged, young families with small children, and singles from a cross-section of economic and social circles. If anything, taking the elevator and navigating our way to our top-side cabin felt more like a hotel than a ship, a fact reinforced by a large lobby atrium. But that's the whole idea, isn't it, to make believe that this is a resort with elegant dining rooms, casino, gift shops, outdoor swimming pools, and a 1,400-seat, multi-story theater for Las Vegas-style shows with musicians and dancers.
(The "Liberty's" Promenade seating area) Our
six-day cruise leaves Port Everglades Harbor on time at 4 p.m. Count us among the millions of passengers invading once sleepy little islands for quick one-day visits. With several giant ships in port at once, the local populations increase exponentially, yielding inevitable crowding and traffic jams. Of course, some passengers choose to remain on the ship and skip the shore excursions entirely, preferring the poolside Jacuzzi or a snooze on deck. Time for Dinner We choose the 8 p.m. second seating dinner. Carnival's menu bears the imprint of French Master Chef Georges Blanc, whose selections have something for everyone, including vegetarian and low-calorie offerings. For starters, for example, one could order Prosciutto Ruffles or Duet of Gratinated Mussels and Shrimps Provencale. For a main course, there might be Pan Seared Fillet of Tilapia, Sweet and Sour Duck Breast, or Braised Leg of New Zealand Spring Lamb with Rosemary Reduction. Heavenly desserts - ah, those heavenly desserts -- include Hazelnut Creme Brulee, Grand Marnier Souffle, Tiramisu, and Marbled Kahlua Cheescake. We don't know if it's the ocean air or just the novelty of eating whenever you like, but we ate more than we usually do. Choices are plentiful, including breakfast and lunch buffets with meat-carving and pasta stations, dessert bars, a 24-hour pizzeria, New York-style delis, and a sushi bar.
(The sushi bar offers one of many food choices on the new "Liberty") One midnight, George gorged on a delicious Mexican fiesta buffet. Another midnight, chefs wowed everyone with an Olympic-size display of desserts accented by imaginative ice sculptures.
(One of many pastry creations prepared by the "Liberty's" baking professionals)
What will they do next? we asked ourselves. In just one week, with eight meals and snacks daily, guests sailing on the Carnival Liberty consume 3,025 pounds of prime rib, 6,480 pounds of chicken, and 45,300 eggs! Extensive Wine List The extensive wine list offers selections from around the world, including champagnes and sparkling wines from sweet to dry, blush and lightly-sweet white wines, light, dry white wines, medium-bodied dry white wines, and full-bodied dry white wines.
(The Liberty offers an extensive wine list) Under the category, Reserve List for the Wine Connoisseur, are world-class whites like Sauvignon Blanc from Cloudy Bay, New Zealand and Chardonnay from Chalk Hill, Sonoma; California red wines like Opus One from Mondavi-Rothschild, Napa Valley 2001; world-class red wines like Gran Coronas Mas la Plana, "Black Label," Torres, Spain 2001, and Luce Della Vite, Tuscany 1999; Bordeaux reds like Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, Pauillac, 1989; Burgundy red wines like Clos de Tart Grand Cru, Mommessin, 1994 and La Romanee Grand Cru, Bouchard, Cote de Nuits, 1998; Sauternes like Chateau d'Yquem, Premier Cru Superieur, Sauternes, 1996; Light, Fruitier Red Wines like Fetzer Valley Oaks Zinfandel and Black Opal Shiraz from Australia; Medium-Bodied Red Wines like Columbia Crest Merlot from Washington State and Santa Margherita Merlot from Italy; and Full-Bodied Red Wines, including Fetzer Valley Oaks Merlot, Washington State Chateau Ste. Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon, Georges Duboeuf, Rhone Chateaunneuf-du-Pape, and Bodega Norton Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina. Carnival's Presidential Wine Club, for which members pay $39.99 per month plus shipping and applicable taxes, provides a monthly shipment of two bottles from wine-producing regions including California, Italy, France, Chile and Australia. A Carnival wine website (www.presidentialwineclub.com) is a source of wine information for members. Wines
are tasted in Carnival's Miami food and beverage department, where 98% of the
wines sampled are actually rejected. When Dickinson came to Miami in 1973, cruising was essentially an elitist vacation, hardly mainstream, he recalled. But now, as our own cruise clearly shows, passengers seem to cross all economic and social boundaries. But in Dickinson's view, "wine is still seen as elitist." "What we want to do," he said, "is to demystify it, just as we have demystified cruising, and make it a beverage and lifestyle that everyone can appreciate. I believe we are succeeding." First Port of Call, Grand Bahama Island It's always a thrill to see an island offshore and wonder about its people and the lay of the land. When Columbus sailed these waters, there were 4,000 Lucayans on Grand Bahama Island, our first port of call. From them we adopted the word tobacco and the practice of smoking and were introduced to the hammock. Once on shore in Freeport, we push our way through crowds coming off other ships, past the ubiquitous small gift shops, to a small bus, arranged on the ship, for the 15-minute drive to Port Lucaya International Bazaar.
(The Port Lucaya International Bazaar's colorful exterior) At the bazaar, we avoid the t-shirt hawkers and chance meeting Terry Goldsmith, a retired British navy officer, who, with his Bahamian wife Granny, produces colorful, engineered-cardboard hats that also turn into vase holders. We buy several, glad that part of the profit goes to the local cancer society.
(Terry Goldsmith shows how the hat he wears can also be turned into a vase-holder)
(Goldsmith's creations are quite colorful)
Grand Cayman Brings Warmer Weather Our next port of call, Grand Cayman, brings warmer weather and a chance to change into bathing suits to visit Seven Mile Beach, all powdery white under a bright blue sky.
(The powdery white sand at Seven Mile Beach is so inviting) We both have a strange feeling about this place, where great fortunes have been sacked away. But if the cash is here, the bric-a-brac setting could fool us. "I'm going to be your tour driver," Mikey, our tour guide, tells us behind the wheel of the small bus, "and bartender as well." Drinks come soon at a roadside stop for flavored rums: mango, pineapple, banana, rum cream, coffee liquor, and coconut, our favorite. Next we drive to general store an area called "Hell," where everyone sends a postcard back home with the "Hell" postmark. There's an image of the devil himself with an opening in the face area - perfect for visitors to pretend to be…the devil!
(The general store, Devil's Hangout, located in Hell, is where one can buy postcards and stamps and send a card home...from Hell!) This area is named Hell, legend has it, because early explorers thought the local rock formations suggested, to them at least, what Hell would look like. The shop is owned by a fellow named Ivan, a Cayman Islands native who was in the U.S. Merchant Marine for 19 years. Dressed in a corny devil's outfit, Ivan tells us from behind the counter that he started his business about 18 years ago as "Holiday Paradise."
(The owner of Devil's Hangout dressed in a devil's outfit) But, he explains, the "business went straight to hell, so I named it the Devil's Hangout, and they all came in."
Ocho Rios, Jamaica...'No Problem, Man' Ocho Rios, Jamaica, the final port of call, is a place deserving of more time, we're sure of that. This is reggae country, the home of Bob Marley, who drew millions to the lore of Jamaica.
(A view of the green hills of Ocho Rios from the ship's deck) From
the ship's deck, one beholds green hillsides studded with foreign-owned mansions
that seem carved out of white stone. Soon we're cocooned in a haunting rain forest on our way to Dunns River Falls, where visitors, wearing special shoes, form a human chain on their way up to the top of the roaring waters.
(At Dunns River Falls, climbers hold hands as they begin the arduous trek up to the top of the falls)
(The journey up the falls continues...) Our kindly Jamaican guide, Pat, has taught us some Jamaican expressions and patois, beginning with "No problem, man." "We
have no problems in Jamaica," she says, "only situations."
(From the historic canon at Shaw Park Gardens, one has a commanding view of the bay and hillsides of Ocho Rios) A
bit later, it's "irie, ya man" at Shaw Park Gardens and Waterfalls,
perched high above the Ocho Rios sandy white beaches.
(The color of Shaw Park Gardens is spectacular)
On Our Way Back to Ft. Lauderdale Jamaica is only 90 miles off the coast of Cuba, and on the voyage back to Ft. Lauderdale, the "Liberty" makes a wide circle around the communist island and heads north. Cuba stretches far beyond the size we ever thought it was and seems to take forever to finally disappear off the horizon. We wonder if we've passed where Cubans have launched boats for their escape to the U.S. That night, George is thinking again of Bob Marley: "Let's get together and feel all right," Marley sang. And we laugh and say, "Irie, ya, man." From Wine Steward to Cruise Director...or How to Keep 3,000 People Happy 24-Hours a Day John Heald has a very important job on the "Liberty." He's the cruise director, responsible, you could say, for keeping 3,000 people happy 24-hours a day.
(The "Liberty's" cruise director, John Heald, specializes in keeping everyone happy) Does he succeed? Absolutely, with a generous helping of humor, some slap-stick, and very British understatement. The British native of Essex is a natural for the job, even though he came to it quite by accident. Heald was working in a London market exchange, where he wore "a funny colored jacket and waved my hands around and really not understanding what I did." The result? Knowing "a little bit about wine" He ended up coming to Carnival as a wine steward because he "knew a little bit about wine." After a year, when his contract was up, "Management told me, 'We think you're an okay wine steward, but we think you'd be better off doing entertainment because you seem to make people laugh.'" They sure had Heald pegged right -- even though he wasn't trained as a singer, a musician, or a juggler, among the common prerequisites for the job of cruise director. "I
didn't have any of those talents at all," Heald said. Heald Has a Flawless Delivery Heald's jokes, which would fall flat with an amateur, are simply riotous given Heald's flawless delivery. Like the one about the lady frantic that she's stuck in her cabin: "One door goes to my bathroom and the other has a 'Do Not Disturb' sign on it.' "I
think for me," Heald said, "hearing 2,000 people laugh all at the same
time is an incredible ego boost. It's a wonderful way of being paid. I guess,
you know, it's like a salary in itself hearing those people laugh." WHEN
YOU GO…
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