Beaune
The Most Beautiful Small Town in France

By Arnie Greenberg, ultours@aol.com

In the center of one of the most famous wine regions in France sits the
small, fortified city of Beaune, sometimes referred to as the most beautiful small town in France. I recommend this comfortable and visual city for a future vacation.

You will be in the heart of Burgundy, once the home of the powerful Dukes of Burgundy, where the Middle Ages come to life. This is where the Grand Dukes left magnificent cathedrals, abbeys and museums.

The land rising from the central highway is called the "cote," and as you
drive north or south, you are treated to a gentle land covered with a sea of vines. Once developed by the local monks, this land has produced some of the finest Pinot Noir grapes in the world, and from great grapes comes the famous Cotes de Nuits (the north sides of Nuits St. George).

To the south you will find the Cotes de Beaune. Here one finds gentle Pommard and white Meursault made from Chardonnay. Everything culminates in the auction of these popular wines on the third Sunday in November. The Nouveau Bojolais, famous around the world, comes from this region.

At any time of the year, you can travel the entire length of Burgundy to
Dijon, a larger city now dedicated to mustard seed, and you will be able to taste the best that Burgundy has to offer. North of Beaune, one can sample the more expensive wines at Vougeot, but in Beaune itself you can find something to match any wallet.

While you are in Beaune, you can take a few hours off from wine tasting or eating and visit the Hospice, a charitable foundation founded in 1443 by Nicholas Rolin, Chancellor to Philip the Good, the Duke of Burgundy. Part of the Hospices de Beaune is Hotel-Dieu, a hospital and exceptionally preserved monument still worth a visit.

The Hotel operated from 1451 to 1971 — 520 years. It has exquisite ironwork, gabled-dormers and multi-colored glazed tiles on its steeply-slanted roof. From the inside of the Flemish-Burgundian courtyard (not visible from the street), one looks upon what appears to be luxurious palace. But that's not at all what it is.

The inside is set up like a museum, and for about $4 you can roam through the nun's quarters, the great hall, the chapel and ancient pharmacy. Even the Salle des Povres, where the sick were attended to, is a lush and exciting room, hardly like the hospitals of today.

Roam around the town. You'll find the water conduits that flow under the city. Look at the remnants of the old wall and visit the outstanding restaurants. Even the hotels are modern and mostly within walking distance of the city center. There you will find the tourist office. They'll find you a room or offer a memorable tour of this charming city.

The museum and Hotel-Dieu are open every day from April to mid-November from 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Off-season hours are slightly shorter. A visit to Beaune without seeing this breathtaking exhibit would be unpardonable. Tours can be arranged for the evening hours in French, German or English. For about $6, you can see the entire building under the lights. It's part of what the French call "Son et Lumiere" (sound and light) and operates in the spring and summer only.
Hotel-Dieu can be found in the center of town on Rue de l'Hotel-Dieu, directly across from the Place de la Halle and tourist information office. It's well indicated, so you won't get lost. While there, you might want to visit the boutique with pewter, porcelain ware and paper products.

Close by is the wine museum, certainly not to be missed. This former medieval ducal mansion tells the story of the vineyards. Other places to visit in the area are Tournus with its spectacular abbey on the banks of the River Saone. Here you go back in time as you walk along the cobbled streets. Dijon itself is stunning, if you like art, food and wine. Its fine arts museum boasts a rich collection of paintings and Renaissance furniture.

A little off the beaten track to the west is Autun, also recommended. Autun was once the seat of a Gallic university. The Rolin Museum is a perfect place to discover artifacts in the city.

If it is true that the heart of a nation lies in its villages, then the Burgundy region is a must for students of French culture… and, of course… the wine.

In Beaune, I recommend Hotel Henry II. This Best Western hotel is a remodeled older building. It is charming, inexpensive and hospitable. It is just at the northern archway to the old city on Rue Faubourg-St.Nicholas 12/14. It's always a good idea to call ahead, as they have only 50 rooms. If you're lucky, you'll get a room with beamed ceilings overlooking the garden. Tel: 03 80 22 83 84.