St. Augustine: Still Thriving After 440 Years

By Arnie Greenberg, ultours1@gmail.com

It was almost 500 years ago that the explorer Ponce de Leon claimed Florida for Spain.

Always on the lookout for the fountain of youth and the golden riches of the uncharted world, the future explorers later found gold and silver in Mexico and Peru.

But about 50 years later, French garrisons inhabited the east coast of Florida. Philip II sent Pedro Menendez and 700 soldiers to get rid of the French and establish a colony.

St. Augustine is now the oldest continually occupied European settlement in North America -- and it's still thriving.

But it was not an easy task. The settlers were isolated and often near starvation. They were plagued by marauding pirates and hostile Indians. They did establish new outposts, but only St. Augustine survived.

Because it was a key to the defense of the Florida coast, it was decided to build a stone fort. Castillo de San Marcos took 23 years to build. The coquina soft shell-rock structure has lost its color and luster, but it remains today.

The city and fortress changed hands, but on July 10, 1821 it became American. Today, the old city still beckons visitors. The city and the white sand beaches attract over a million visitors a year.

There are 12,000-plus residents, and when the winter season begins, the town comes to life. On the Saturday before Thanksgiving, the city sponsors "Nights of Light." Music and dancing accompany the turning on of two million little white lights that make the old city, Lions Bridge and the bay glow.

Crowds swarm over the narrow streets, the bars, restaurants and souvenir shops. It is a joyful happening not unlike a Mardi gras. The lights are on until the end of January…and the tourists pour in.

There are restaurants enough for the largest crowds, sophisticated hotels, bed and breakfasts with cute names like Southern Wind, Peace and Plenty or Wales Tale. Then there are the usual old-style, low, wooden motels.

There are sightseeing tours on old trolleys or special busses to the old jail and cemetery. One guarantees to raise your "spirits" and asks if you are "dying to take the tour." Another offers to "take you to an early grave." Ghoulish? Not really. It's all in good fun.

A walking tour offers a "ghostly experience," and one offers "a certified haunted building" and "ghostly encounters." You can take a walking tour, a horse-drawn carriage through the old historical district, or a 72-foot topsail schooner.

There's a mini-sightseeing train that makes 20 stops, allowing you to get on and off. It has been operating successfully for 50 years.

You can visit the old fort, a number of museums, and a wonderful old chocolate factory. There's even a Ripley's Believe It or Not with amazing oddities, and an alligator farm, Lighthouse & Museum or a Marineland only 15 miles away.

I especially enjoyed a visit to the St. Photios Greek Orthodox National Shrine, dedicated to the first colony of Greek people in the New World and located at 41 Saint George Street (between Orange and Cuna St.) See www.stphotios.com for more information.

But whatever you do, it's a fun holiday visit with something for all. Now don't get me wrong -- it's a crowded, noisy place, especially during the Nights of Lights. But the area is surrounded by things to do, great beaches, and within proximity to Jacksonville, a fast-growing metropolis.

For more information about St. Augustine, Florida, visit www.staugustine.com.

If you are driving south on I-95, turn towards the ocean at exit 95 south of Jacksonville. It's a perfect distance for a layover on your way to Disney World or Epcot. You can also enter along US 1 from either direction, but I personally find the highway slow, weathered and run down.

An afternoon and evening should suffice unless you want to do things with the kids. There's always fishing, swimming or just plain people watching. If you happen to be here in the spring when the Spanish moss hangs from the trees, you'll see what has been attracting people to this holiday town since the first Flagler hotel was built in the 1920's.

The city fathers have turned the old city into a visitor's haven. It's not cultural, sophisticated or upscale. But it is fun.

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