ABOUT ARNIE GREENBERG
Arnie Greenberg, "our man in Canada," is an insatiable writer and traveler. It all started with a trip to Paris years ago and continues non-stop ever since. A retired Professor of Humanities at Montreal's Vanier College, he specialized in 'Paris Expatriates of the Twenties' and 'Great Trials of the 20th Century.' He has authored a number of books and plays, including Goddy: A Play, about Gertrude Stein and Hemingway staged at the Wilhelma Theatre in Stuttgart, Germany in 1992, and Pablo: The Man Who Painted Hell. His text, Man on Trial, was used for 20 years in his college course. He also wrote over 1,200 half hours for CBC Television, mostly for young people.
Because of his love for travel, Arnie started Ultimate Tours and arranges tours each spring to world destinations. When not traveling, Arnie devotes much of his time to travel writing; he also paints and plays golf. Contact him at ultours@gmail.com, or visit his web site for his latest itineraries at www.ultimate-tours.com.
Archived Articles
In addition to Arnie Greenberg's current travel articles listed below, there are numerous others which are archived. To find these, simply click here.
Springtime
in Montreal Means Hockey Playoffs
A
city that until recently was covered with snow is now enjoying the spring season.
Spring means different things for different people... but if you live in Montreal,
spring is filled with meting snow, flooding, changing winter tires, putting the
warm coats away...and thoughts of hockey playoffs...
Mexico's
Art Havens: San Miguel & Guanajuato
Build
it and they will come…or so the expression goes. Four hours north of Mexico
City in the hills above the river valley, an art school was established at the
Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramirez El Nigromante. ..
Two
Women...Many Desestinations
Sometimes
we are drawn to a place because of what we hear about those who lived there. This
week we celebrate Women's Day (March 8, 2008), and with travel in mind, I thought
of the great women who brought world attention to the place where they lived...
San
Miguel de Allende: A Magical City High in the Mountains of Mexico
Mexico
is a Mecca for vacationers, and every part of this colorful country has something
different to offer. My trip to San Miguel de Allende, high in the mountains a
few hours north of Mexico City, proved to be the best family spot I've discovered
in years...
Watercolors
of San Miguel d'Allende, Mexico
I
have just returned from a special month in San Miguel d'Allende Mexico. I
say "special" as it was strictly a holiday -- no tour leading -- during
which we melted into the backdrop of a most interesting andunique place to which
I know I will return...
Ghosts
of Stein, Picasso and Hemingway:
I Discover 1920's Paris
One
of the things that drives us to unknown places is mystery and another is adventure.
It is the unknown, the places that are different that we seek out...
On
to the Holy City of Pushkar & the Blue City of Jodhpur
Pushkar
is a holy city, but there are many other diversions to interest and amuse you.
I took advantage of the camel ride opportunity through the town, out on the desert
and back to our splendid Hotel Jagat Palace...
Jaipur:
A Colorful Surprise
After
our exciting stay in Agra, we headed out into the desert to the old fortress cities.
T he first stop was Jaipur, the capital city of Rajasthan. The city gets its name
from the Maharaja Jai Singh II, who was an astronomer and great warrior. Hence,
Jai, and pur is city. Today, it is referred to as the "Pink City."
Voyage
to India: A Work in Progress
After
three weeks in India, I have new a perception of a poor and crowded country that
is taking major strides to conquer the circumstances that hold her back...
Visiting
the Touro Synagogue in Newport, Rhode Island, America's Oldest Jewish House of
Worship
Yesterday,
I returned from Newport, Rhode Island, where I had occasion to visit the Touro
Synagogue, the oldest synagogue in the United States whose origins go back to
the Colonial era...
The
Best of America: Why I Watch CBS "Sunday Morning"
It's
been a habit of mind for over 18 years. Once I began watching the late Charles
Kuralt and CBS's hour and a half program Sunday Morning, I was addicted...
Albi:
The Riches of France's Past
If
you are in search of art, architecture and history, I suggest you head for Albi.
The city stands high on the banks of the river Tarn in the southwest of France,
north of Carcassonne and near the larger city of Toulouse...
A
TRAVELER'S HANDBOOK
So
you're tired of staying at home. You have some savings and you want to join the
beautiful people who travel near and far. Well, dear reader, you've come to the
right place. I've always been
lured to far-off places. So I got started and never looked back...Along the way,
I learned a few things about travel and would like to share them with you...
Modern
Rhodes and Its Roots
There
is something exciting about returning to Rhodes. Not many of the 90,000 people
came out to greet me, but the souvenir stands were ready and the sweet smells
of the flowers, bakeries and restaurants drew me into the maze-like city as it
had before...
The
Perfect Holiday: From Nice to Portofino and Cinque Terra
Nice
is the perfect place to start your south of France vacation. Here you can discover
French southern charm, museums, beaches and promenades you dream about...
Taormina:
A Haven for History, Beauty and Relaxation
For
me it was one of the most exciting towns I had ever visited, if only for the location
and view. But once I started walking around, I realized that there is much to
draw a visitor here, including food, theatre, ancient architecture, history and
a proximity to other attractions...
Milan
on the Way to Como, Verona & Brescia
Milan
is one of those cities that is hidden in the forest of cities that call out...
Remembering
Edith Piaf the Little Sparrow: La Vie en Rose
I've
walked the streets of Belleville, looking for the places where Edith Piaf once
lived and sang...
Remembering
Vimy Ridge 90 Years Later
This
coming month, April 9, to be exact, marks the anniversary of the allied battle
of Vimy Ridge in northwestern France (April 9, 1917)...
Chenonceau:
A Chateau Fit for a Queen
Here's
a French chateau with an interesting pastime and a feast for the eyes. It's often
referred to as the Chateau des Dames or the Woman's Chateau...
Ontario's
Stratford Festival: It Starts with a Fanfare…
Every
time I hear the trumpet fanfare at the Stratford Festival, the hair rises on the
back of my neck. There is something magical of those trumpets, as they call the
ticket holders into the impressive Festival Theatre...
Paris
D'Orsay Museum: From Train Station to Miracle
It
was a transformation that was praised. Designed and built as a railroad station
for the world's fair in 1900, this attractive building on the banks of the Seine
is now the center of paintings, sculpture, furniture and objets d'art that draws
crowds all year long...
Eating
in Barcelona: Be Sure to Come Late
This
is a city where eating out is never a problem. The food is well prepared nicely
presented and within everyone's budget...
Miro
Lives in Barcelona
Our
first impulse is to think of Goya, Valasquez abd even Picasso, but once you've
visited Barcelona you'll understand how the native son of that city is really
Joan Miro...
Barcelona's
Streets Filled with Life
There seems to be something for everyone in this exciting city, from street parades to magical clowns and living "statues"...
Barcelona's
Old Catalan Synagogue
It
is the oldest synagogue in Spain...and in Europe. The fact that it has been resurrected
is in itself a miracle...
The
Magic of Giverny
There
is something magical about visiting the studios or homes of great artists. I can
count so many of the private workplaces I visited of famous painters...But none
held that special fascination for me as did the charming rural home and grounds
in the hamlet of Giverny, where Claude Monet spent so many years...
Venice:
A Carnival of Sighs
It
is said that as the prisoners left their trials at the Doge's Palace they looked
back through a tiny window at the gondola harbor of Venice and they sighed...
Street
Vendors Are Everywhere in China
It
comes with the territory. You see it everywhere. Many get used to it…and
others never do. Street hawkers abound. There is no place a tourist can walk without
being hounded by someone selling something...
Vivacious
Vancouver
It may be
a cliché, but I was blown away by a city I thought I knew...
Antoni
Gaudi and Barcelona
Some
say that Barcelona made Gaudi and others say that Gaudi made Barcelona. It doesn't
matter, but when you visit this charming city for the first time, you become well
aware of Gaudi's presence...
Back
to Russia, Part I: St. Petersburg to Moscow
After
a long flight from Canada, we landed in St Petersburg. I had waited almost 30
years to return...
Modern
China: A Giant Being Transformed
China
is being transformed.
Its major cities are glittering, modern, bustling with
tourists living in futuristic hotel...
Chateau
de Hautefort: Floating Like a Dream
I
had written about it, but never visited. When I thought of the Perigord and the
1001 chateaux, I was captured by one special place, Hautefort...
I
have written about the Dordogne and Perigord in previous articles, but a recent
visit to the region renewed previous tastes and smells and rekindled for me the
region's visual splendors...
In
Stratford, Ontario, the Play's the Thing!
It's
that time again, when the new season of the Stratford Festival is about to begin...
Enjoying
Paris: The City That Doesn't Take Away
Imagine
a month without English newspapers, television, radio or any conversation more
than "Where ya, from?" or "Where's the Louvre?"
Imagine
a Canadian not seeing snow once during the month of January. Here I am in the
city of my dreams...
What
Do You Do after an Absence from Paris? Arnie Greenberg Has Some Suggestions for
You
Life is a voyage
of discovery, and travel is the way we learn about others. I only got back to
Paris on Saturday morning, and already I've discovered a few new things...
Discover
the Dordogne and Perigord
Take a map of France, lay it out on the table and, with a yellow marker, follow
this article. You will end up having one of the most visual, gastronomic and historical
holidays ever...
An
Italian Odyssey Part I: To Sicily via Rieti and Wondrous Lakes and Mountains
Most people travel to Tuscany, Rome or the north of Italy. There is so much to
see...But there is more. I recently traveled to Palermo and a vacation on the
island of Sicily...
Italian
Odyssey Part II: Rieti to Anzio
We arrived in Rieti after a pleasant drive through the Sabine hills. We quickly
discovered that Rieti was the geographical center of Italy and the home of a wonderful
hotel with walls dating back to Roman times...
Italian
Odyssey Part III: Tivoli to Anzio
The odyssey continues. We are still in Tivoli having lunch on the main square.
We will head to Villa Gregorians. Here, the ruins are magnificent, and the villa
is found just off the railroad station road past the Gregariano Bridge...
Italian
Odyssey Party IV: On to Sorrento
May on the coast is sunny and cool. We head out early from the birthplace of Nero,
bound for Sorrento. But there is much to see on the way...
North
From Venice: To Dreamy Asolo and Beyond
There is something magical about walking to the train station in Venice at 6 a.m.
Not only can you hear your shoes on the narrow sidewalks, but the canals are only
starting to come to life with sound and movement...
Discover
Tuscany in Summer:
Florence or Siena to San Gimignano
If you're looking for a holiday that has it all, I suggest a trip to Tuscany,
a magical world, which, for me, conjures up memories of hill villages, mists rising
over gentle wine valleys...
Masada:
Israel's Royal Citadel
I first arrived from Ein Gedi, driving along the western bank of the Dead Sea.
Even though it was December, the sun and the low altitude conspired to keep us
hot. I remembered the pictures I had seen of people floating in the same seawaters,
buoyed by the salinity...
France:
Where Perfume Is King
In the age of the Bourbon kings, they used perfumes to scent their bodies and
not water. I suppose the women did the same, and let's not forget that both men
and women powdered their wigs. But the French, for all their follies, have a certain
"je ne sais quoi."
Where
Artists Played: St Paul de Vence and Beyond
High in the cool hills behind Cannes and the fabled French Riviera is the tiny
cluster of buildings behind ancient ramparts called St-Paul de Vence...
Welcome
to Florida
That's
the sign I'd been waiting for. Big white letters on a blue background with palm
trees and what looked like a huge orange.
It greeted me as I crossed into
Florida...
Romantic
Rome…The Eternal City
It's the city of everyone's dreams. Like Paris, Istanbul and Barcelona, it's mine
too. It's the cradle of modern civilization, the place that gave us new ways of
governing, building and living...
Amazing
Amsterdam: Entertaining, Seductive & Lively
Here's a city that's...entertaining, seductive, lively and filled with character.
Within a small area given to walks, you can visit some of Europe's best art galleries,
over 40 museums, and attend over 70 theatres...
Always
Ready for a Tasty Pastry…Like Tarte Tatin
If you have a sweet tooth like I do, then you'll want to read on. I have found
over the years that many people look for those rich French pastries whether in
France or at home. I grew up with a wonderful pastry shop just around the corner
in Montreal, and now I seek out these shops on all my travels...
Milan
to Venice: The Perfect Escape
It's sometimes difficult to know how far we can go in how many days…I tried
a ten-day road trip from Milan to Merano in the Tyrol. It worked out well, and
I found that you can really tailor a trip to fit your needs...
The
Pleasures of Eating Your Way Across France
When I think of France, I include French cooking, of course. It is amazing how
many dishes we consume or vary that are basically French. Our culinary vocabulary
is sprinkled with French names...
The
Memorable Rewards of the Loire Valley
France is exciting. I always say that you can drive down any road and find something
unique, something truly interesting. Go in any direction from Paris, and there's
something exciting waiting for you.
But the greatest rewards come in the
lovely Loire Valley between Orleans and Saumur...
Vienna
- a City for the Senses
I had been here before, but now I know what drew me back.
Vienna is not a
city one forgets...
Art,
Design and Architecture in Vienna: The Visionary World of Friedensreich Hundertwasser
When I saw this man's work in Vienna, I couldn't believe how excitingly different
it was. I started comparing him to Spain's Gaudi, but the differences were too
many.
Mozart's
Salzburg and the Sounds of Music
Here is a city that was founded on salt being mined in the region and is now a
popular resort and historic center. Left mostly untouched by war, you can walk
through the narrow streets and impressive squares of the town that gave birth
to Mozart...
Discovering
Cesky Krumlov in the Czech Republic
Don't be put off by the name, and don't fret if you've never heard of it. Just
take my advice: Cesky Krumlov, (pronounced chesky) is one of the most exciting
finds in all of Europe...
Prague:
The New Mecca
It
is a city of 'one hundred spires.' It was spared the ravages of war and therefore
looks like the cities of 'Old Europe." Some of its buildings go back to the
10th century. But it doesn't feel like an old city. Prague is new in its spirit,
but old only in its design...
Budapest,
City of Contrasts, Opens to the World
This past month I rekindled an old love. I returned to Central Europe, just as
much of it was joining the European Community...
Ancient
Sicily Excites the Imagination
Can you imagine a place where there was life during the Bronze Age? Think of what
it means to find human remains that date back to the late Paleolithic era.
Go back to the Minoan and Mycenaean eras. No, you are not in Greece -- you can
do all this in Sicily...
In
Love with Montreal
I live in Montreal. It's a pleasant city of over two million people. It's an island
with a good-sized mountain in the middle, Mount Royal. During the summer, people
stroll around Beaver Lake on top of the mountain, sailing boats or feeding the
swans. Lovers walk hand in hand, joggers puff along the roads, and photographers
delight in the pastoral setting in the midst of a metropolis...
Prague
Will Amaze You
I'm
finally going back!
It thrilled me the first time, and I'm sure it will be
more exciting today since the Czech Republic's rebirth...
The
Splendid Italian Riviera
The west coast of Italy, the Italian Riviera, is a trip unto itself.
From
Portofino through Cinque Terre, La Spezia, Livorno and Piombino, not to mention
a possible incursion inland at any time, the coast offers something for everyone...
The
Magical Tuscany Sun
What could be better than a region of charming hill towns, sleepy villages, and
villas ringed by majestic cypresses?
Add to that great food, great wine, and
peace under a warming sun. This is Tuscany, where dreams come true...
Bellagio,
Lake Como: Bellisima!
For many years I visited Lake Como. It is a special place with tiny villages on
the shores of a clear, gigantic lake. Where two arms of the lake meet, there is
the ancient city of Bellagio.
In all of my travels, I have never found a place
that offers so much...
Discover
Shakespeare & Company in Paris
On the left bank of Paris, facing the Notre Dame Cathedral, there's an interesting
yellow sign advertising one of Paris's most celebrated bookstores.It's called
Shakespeare & Company, and most American or English speaking visitors add
it to their list of places to visit in a city with so many historic sites...
Barcelona
for Architecture, Culture & Tapas!
If you know me, you know how important Paris is in my life. But if I can't go
to Paris, I'd choose Barcelona in a minute. The city is a young and vibrant place
filled with special sounds and charms, visual delights, historical reminders and
tastes to remember...
Dreams
Come True in Florence
When thinking of Italy, one always thinks of Toscana or Tuscany. When I think
of Tuscany, I always think of Florence. There is something magical about this
popular city, and the magic gets to you the minute you arrive...
Monster
Spotting on Loch Ness
Everyone has heard of the Loch Ness Monster, but few people from North America
visit this lovely corner of Scotland. I did and found more than I bargained for...
Harry's
New York Bar: "Sank Roo Doe Noo," Paris
For many, it's something out of the past. For others, it's nostalgia, and for
some, it's something new...
On
the Trail of Jewish Europe and Its Ghettos
Jews in Europe often lived in ghettos. Usually in the center of old towns, these
streets were closed off at the end of the day, and the people inside were not
allowed out...
The
Colors and Fragrances of Sunny Provence
When I think of Provence, I think of vivid colors reflecting on azure seas, the
smells of lavender, home cooking, and history.
Yes, I think you can smell
history -- and there's much to sniff out in sunny Provence...
Marc
Chagall: Fantasy, Poetry and Love
There are great works of art displayed in France. The Louvre itself is a place
where one can get lost in the creations of special talents. The d'Orsay offers
more than one can expect... But my greatest joy comes from the modern Museum of
the Biblical Message in a quiet neighborhood high above the Baie Des Anges in
sunny Nice...
A
Visit to Romantic Santorini
I recently read an article about the 50 most romantic places to visit. The Greek
island of Thera, or Santorini, was high on the list. Let me tell you why I agree...
A
Museum to Remember: Anne Frank House, Amsterdam
You might walk right past it if you didn't know what it was.
Maybe the long
lines of people would make you ask what it is. But once you know, you'll be drawn
to it as thousands of people have.
It's on a small street near a canal in
downtown Amsterdam. It is a memorial to a young girl and her family who hid there
during the war. It's the home of Anne Frank...
Alfred
Dreyfuss: He Rests in Montparnasse
When we arrived at the main gate, they gave us a map. Smaller than the Père
Lachase cemetery, the one in Montparnasse is impressive even if it's only because
of the size, the cleanliness and the famous people who rest there...
What's in a Name? You'd Be Surprised
I've
traveled from Dushanbe to Witless Bay. I was overjoyed by the site of Tadoussac
on the St. Lawrence River. I was moved by the history of Ajaccio and the serenity
of Joe Bats Arm and Old Man Bay…
One
Man's Love Affair with Montreal
Most people are proud of their hometown. I'm one of them.
I've lived here
all my life, and even though I travel more than most people, I'm always happy
to come home. I truly believe that Montreal is one of the most exclusive cities
in the world…
Reaching Back to Remember the Jews of Greece
It's difficult to imagine that 65,000 Greek Jews, or 87% of the total Jewish population, died during World War II. Imagine that their property, businesses, art treasures and libraries were confiscated and plundered. The synagogues and cemeteries were destroyed in an effort to erase the existence and memory of 2,300 years of Jewish life...
Annecy
A
Storybook Setting in France
Picture a medieval town with pastel colored buildings in clusters almost glued
together on both sides of a gentle canal that flows to a pristine lake. Picture
gentle white swans floating gracefully on the near-still waters. Close your eyes
and imagine flowers hanging from canal-side fences and old-world lamp posts casting
a golden, almost subdued light...
Siena in the Romantic Hills of Italy
What could be better than a summer day in the Tuscan hills of central Italy? I can't think of a more romantic or even exciting setting for a holiday than the walled city of Siena, especially during the historical Palio...
Aix-Les-Bains...
For the (Healing) Waters
People have been flocking to the healing waters of Aix-Les-Bains for centuries...
The Paris Pletzl Provides a Glimpse at Jewish Paris
It's like a culture shock. Suddenly, the language changes. All at once the
stores offer Jewish books, religious artifacts, and Jewish style food...
Remembering Josephine Baker
Did you know that when ladies fixed their hair like Josephine Baker in the Twenties, it was called a BAK-AIR FIXE? Well, they don't do it anymore, but they still listen to her music and revere the American who came to Paris to entertain, remained there for the rest of her life, and lies buried in Southern France...
From Paris with Love
I've been to Paris many times, but I can hardly remember the first time.
I know I was impressed — otherwise, why would I come back every year, at least once...
