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The Magic of Giverny By
Arnie Greenberg (Iris flowers, above, in the Garden at Giverny) There is something magical about visiting the studios or homes of great artists. I can count so many of the private workplaces I visited of famous painters, like Picasso's Bateau Lavoire, Cézanne's studio on the outskirts of Aix-En-Province, Leonardo Da Vinci's Clos Luce in Amboise and Rodin's workshop in Paris. I visited Gustave Moreau's studio and gallery in Paris where the painter lived all his life, and of course, the Paris Studio of Ossip Zadkin among others. I saw where Picasso worked in the South of France not far from the studios of Renoir and Matisse. None Held That Special Fascination as Giverny But none held that special fascination for me as did the charming rural home and grounds in the hamlet of Giverny, where Claude Monet spent so many years. Today tour buses abound, and the time to visit the grounds, home and water lily pond takes longer than usual. But don't let that deter you. This is one of the best places to see where a special premier artist lived and worked.
(The Clos Normand at Giverny, where Monet and his family lived) A short wait to get into the house is well worth it. For art aficionados this is a house filled with wonders and ghosts. Just think of the visiting artists like Manet, Renoir or Sisley…the discussions around the dinner table or the breathless silence of the artist's studio as he examined his work or sat staring at an unfinished work, contemplating his next move. Here in this pristine setting, Claude Monet lived for 43 years, half of his life. Unlike some of the artists of his time, for whom money was no problem, Monet relied almost entirely on his work to earn a livelihood. To save money, in 1878 Monet moved in with rich friends in Vetheuil, but life was hard. A year later, his wife died and soon after, his friend suffered a devastating bankruptcy. Monet soon moved to Passy, and his wife moved in with Monet, where they started searching for a permanent home. They found the house at Giverny…and the rest is history. The Impressionists Are the Toast of Paris By 1889 the Impressionists were the toast of Paris art circles, and Monet began selling his work for as much as 7,900 francs, a great sum in those days. This amount soon became only a fraction of his prices. By 1890 his paintings sold for 22,000 francs. Now he could think of marrying Alice, and the family began redecorating the house for the comfort of the growing family.
(Color is everywhere in the Monet house) Color and style were introduced to the once uninteresting décor. Pink was introduced to the outside, and the shutters and doors were painted bright green to replace the somber grey. Virginia creeper on the façade added to the brightness. Then, as his work grew larger, he required more space. The north side was redone to provide a second studio and extra bedrooms. Then, when Monet became interested in cars, they built a garage for his new Panhard. Other additions were completed by 1916 to give him space for his water lilies done on huge panels. The garden was transformed into a site of dazzling color. There were eventually six gardeners hired to tend that magnificent garden. Monet Acquires Land Along the River When Monet acquired the strip of land along the river, he received permission to divert the water to enlarge an existing pond. This became the lily pond, or water garden. It is a splendid sight with rhododendrons, roses of all colors, azaleas, weeping willows, poplars and a small Japanese bridge decorated with white and mauve wisteria denominator to carry you over the pond.
(The magnificent Japanese Bridge) The colors change with the seasons, but the one common with factor is the crowds. Everyone tries to have a picture taken on the bridge. Just to get a shot of the area without a horde of people in the frame is nigh impossible.
(A breathtaking view of the Water Garden) Walking around the pond is highly recommended, as is the garden. Every season, the colors and mood change. Yet, while this is an eye appealing marvel, I always enjoy the colors and mood of the rather large house. One enters from the center, and the light draws you. Here the soft and bright blue sets the mood for what lies beyond. I turned left at the modest dark staircase to the girls' rooms and the attic reserved for the boys. The Famous Yellow Dining Room There before me was the feel for the artist in the yellow dining room. Dining with family and friends was one of Monet's special joys. Food, generously served, was accompanied by light wines from many regions. On the walls were Japanese prints both peaceful and tender. Yellow on yellow with simple terracotta and cream tiles brought the room together.
(The famous yellow dining room) Mantle decorations of simple vases from the South were surely the touch of an artist. A shining samovar and a side table of flowered dishes sitting in the sunlight gave a cool impression of a neat, functional dining room of the period. Here, Monet had a luncheon with Rodin, Mirabeau, Geoffroy and the future head of state, Georges Clemenceau. Here Monet also introduced Paul Cezanne, the little known artist from Aix. Cezanne was overcome and actually knelt before Rodin, the master. I was particularly
impressed with the kitchen with its blue and white tiles, the copper pots and
the light and dark blue trim on the windows. One could imagine the smells from
the old stove and the bustling of Alice and her girls as they prepared copious In the cellar were rows of preserved fruits, vegetables and apricots in syrup. The blue salon was an essential meeting place for the ladies. Here the activity was reading, sewing, playing cards or digesting a meal with steaming coffee. The studio drawing room has no doubt changed, but it is still a focus of the painter's work. It was here, too, that Monet composed his letters. He remained in contact with friends, painters and politicians all his life. Feeling the Presence of the Artist It's a few steps down into the studio drawing room, but once there you can feel the presence of the artist as he painted, wrote or just relaxed.
(The former water lily studio is now a gift shop at Giverny) But there is a larger 20th century studio where the great water lily panels came to life. Here, the light pours in from the top. The room is 15 meters high. The wall space is enormous (23 meters long) as you can tell by the size of his work. Often Monet painted outdoors, where he set up an easel and a sun umbrella and lost himself among the trees and foliage. It was a serene idyllic place to work, to think, to create. He even had a small wooden rowboat that drifted among the lilies. But his life wasn't always easy. He made what was then a small fortune and kept adding onto the property. Later he fell on hard times, sold many of his personal things, and tried to borrow money. Monet had traveled far and showed the way into Impressionism from this small place in Western France to the world. By 1923 he was nearly blind and had a cataract operation. In 1926 he was diagnosed with lung cancer. He died on Dec 5, eighty years ago. He lies in a simple Giverny grave. He was 86 years old. I heartily recommend a visit to Giverny by tour bus or private car. There is an entrance fee for the house or the gardens or both. There is a large, well-lit gift and souvenir shop. For more information contact: Fondation
Claude Monet Open April - October. Closed Mondays. For more information on visiting France, contact www.franceguide.com. (Click below for more travel stories!)
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