Discover the Dordogne and Perigord

By Arnie Greenberg
Contact Arnie at
ultours@aol.com

(The cliff village of Rocamadour, above, is France's second most-visited site)

Take a map of France, lay it out on the table and, with a yellow marker, follow this article. You will end up having one of the most visual, gastronomic and historical holidays ever. The area will go from Toulouse, which you can reach by plane or train, to Limoges, which also has an airport with flights to and from Paris.

It's 83 K to the towns of Cahors (about 50 miles) and Sarlat about 199K (62 miles). There are many memorable stops along the way, including lovely villages every few miles between Sarlat and Limoges.

This voyage is geared for visitors with an interest in small hotels, chateaus, hill villages, medieval towns, caves, bridges and scenic beauty. The area will simply enchant you.

Follow the Main Highway North to Cahors

From Toulouse, the airplane capital of France's Airbus, you follow the main highway north to Cahors.

(The lovely Volontre Bridge is a wonder of 14-century architecture)

Here you will find the famous Volontre Bridge, which spans the Lot River. It is one of the most photographed places in France -- a wonder of 14th-century architecture and a reminder of the Hundred Years War. I'd suggest you buy a guidebook to learn of the legend of the bridge's construction. It will startle you, and you will feel the ghosts of history as you walk across it.

Stay a Few Days in Sarlat-Le-Caneda

From there it's about 100 K to Sarlat-Le-Caneda, where you may want to stay for a few days and arrive on Friday, since Saturday is market day. The wares are distributed over the entire core of this ancient city, and the reconstruction of the old center enables you to see what villages were like hundreds of years ago.

I suggest the 40-room Hotel de Selves 3* (93, Ave de Selves, Fax 05 53 31 23 52, E-mail hotel.sarlat@magic.fr), but I'd reserve in advance. It is at the north end of town in a quiet haven and within walking distance to the center of the medieval city, where the best restaurants are found.

(The comfortable Hotel De Selves in Sarlat-Le-Caneda. Reserve in advance)

The hotel can recommend the best restaurant choices and reserve space for you. It has a garden and pool and serves breakfast only. It's my favorite in Sarlat.

I had dinner at Criquettamu's at 5, rue des Armes, only 5 minutes from the hotel. The building alone is worth the visit. Anther farther along is Au Delices de Lauralice, where I sampled wonderful confit du canard in old world elegance.

The city itself is a wonder of architecture, dating back to the 8th century. Many buildings are classified as historical, and the town was hardly known until the railroad and highway brought them onto the tourist map. It is classified as three stars by Michelin and is guaranteed to charm you at first sight. You will be walking through narrow streets and nearly a thousand years of history. It is one of my favorite places.

Sarlat - An Eye-Pleasing Masterpiece

Besides the market, there are narrow streets to examine and truffles to buy. This is the Perigord Noir, famous for paste, walnut oil and truffles, which you can order with your breakfast eggs. Whatever you do in the region, do not miss Sarlat. It's an eye-pleasing masterpiece.

(The marketplace, like the general region, is famous for its paste, walnut oil and truffles)

(Truffles are a prized commodity in the Sarlat area of France)

Nearby there's the hilltop village of Domme with a superb view of the river. You can also see the gardens at d'Eyrignac Manor to the north, considered one of the most beautiful in France, magnificent in every season. Or the Grand Roc at Les Eyzies, if you like caves with stalactites.

Children will enjoy the grand and beautiful Chateau des Milandes to the southwest, where Josephine Baker and her international family once lived. Today you can see an exhibit of her costumes and life or visit the Center of Falconry, open there every summer.

(The magnificent Chateau des Milandes, where Josephine Baker and her international family once lived)

But if you missed it on the way north, take a day to visit France's second most visited site: Rocamadour. This cliff village that seems to dangle menacingly from above is a must for photographers and those interested in the route of ancient pilgrimages.

Below the church and museum, a single road bisects the cliff, where one can buy souvenirs or mouth-watering delicacies known in the area. Here the 'produits de terroire' -- wines, fresh walnuts, salads and pates, goat cheese or lamb cooked with garlic, rosemary and shallots -- offer delights for the palate.

(Enjoy the mouth-watering foods of this part of France)

If you choose to stay overnight, there are small 2- and 3- star hotels in the area and B&Bs or campgrounds. It is also recommended that you visit the Gouffre de Padirac, a nearby cave that's memorable.

Decisions to Make Back in Sarlat

Back in Sarlat there are decisions to be made. You can stay and do other day trips or move on. I would include the village of Les Eyzies to the west about 17 miles away. Here, too, there are caves, grottos and wonderful food. Accommodations are not a problem. Selecting the right restaurant may require some help.

(There are idyllic scenes like this one to see in the Sarlat area)

From here or Sarlat you should head to Montignac. This is a friendly town within a stone's throw from Lascaux II, the 17,000-year-old caves discovered in the 1940's and recreated with painstaking precision two hundred meters from the original site for tourist by the thousands who want to see the cave drawings but are not allowed in the original site.

It is one of the most moving sites in France, and there are guides who speak many languages. The visit takes 40 minutes, and the site is open year round. For information, visit www.perigord.tm.fr

In Montignac, my choice of dining and hotel is Le Relais Du Soleil d"or on the main street at 16, rue du IV Septembre. Fax 05 53 50 27 54.

A Nearby Cro-Magnon Site called THOT

Nearby there's the Cro-Magnon site called THOT, which is a wonderland for children interested in reindeer, ancient Przewalsi horses, European bisons and replicas of extinct mammoth and wooly rhinoceros. Use the same web sight for information.

(From Sarlat, you can head for the castle of Hautefort)

You are now only 23 miles north of Sarlat. There is much more to see at Perigueux, Brantome, Bourdeilles, Hautefort, Limoges and Oradour-sur-Glane. You can also head west to St. Emillion, which is the center of the Bordeaux wine country.

But it's time to rest and gather your thoughts. Sit at the waterside restaurant on the riverbank in Montignac. It's called Les Pilotis and serves great Italian food at popular prices.

Bon appetit!

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