To Albania with Love

Story and photos by Sheila Shalhevet

Sheila Shalhevet is a writer and photographer living in Israel. Her husband Yosi was the first official representative of Israel to China from 1990 to 1992. She welcomes reader comments at: sheilashal@yahoo.com. View her photos at www.sheilashalhevet.com.

(Colorfully-costumed dancers in the Albanian alps, above)

When I first mentioned to several members of my family that my husband Yosi and I were going on a group tour to visit Albania, our son David's reaction was to break into a loud laugh and exclaim, "You, mom, with a group. Never!"

His comments went on to include the fact that I would never adjust to following the flock. Apparently, since the day he can remember, he insists that I have always been a totally instinctive person following my whims, which have led me to some strange and interesting adventures in places that never quite make it to the tourist map.

He also reminded me how much I love to nest for a few days in some small village and spend time meeting interesting people which are definitely not a group tour thing. I countered with the convenience of a pre packaged tour, meeting new people and being ready to make the compromise of not being able to do my own thing all the time, including no intensive photography concentrated in one place. He smirked. I made reservations for Yosi and me.

Albania...and That Is That

Why Albania, I was asked. Why not "normal places for a change," others asked. Albania is where we want to go...and that is that. This got me to thinking, and once again I was reminded of a previous time in my life, when I was five years old and my family had just moved to the Kensington section of Philadelphia, where my father had opened his new drug store.

(For a long time, Albania was a closed country, locked behind a political "fog" that has snow been lifted with the fall of communism and the opening up of the country to tourism. In this dramatic photo by Sheila Shalhevet, a "natural" fog still can hang over some parts of the country's landscape, creating dramatic scenes like this one)

One of my first new friends was a little red headed, freckled face girl whose parents spoke with an accent. My new friend told me they were Albanian, and I rushed home to ask my mother what Albanian was, thinking it was some kind of problem. This was 1946, and the world was just starting to recover from the horror of the War.

Duly impressed with my refugee friend and her family, Albania was then added to my already list of exotic places I would one day visit. One of the advantages for me of starting to read at a very early age was my unlimited imagination, which, in turn, created wanderlust and dreams of excitement and adventures far away from Philadelphia.

An Arduous Trip, Too

I am going to begin our Albania trip at the end with a general letter I wrote to friends upon our return. "We are home a week and finally beginning to return to reality. It was an amazing trip, very arduous being on the go from very early morning until fairly late in the evening, arriving at our hotels, not always but usually okay, after eight if not later as a rule, having a dinner, instructions for other next day and, of course, objections ... there is always one couple that needs to mouth off.....before getting to bed about midnight. Boy, were we tired when we returned home.

(Seeing Albania for the first time, Shalhevet found a country "unspoiled and amazingly beautiful")

Albania as well as Montenegro, where we spent the last two nights, are totally unspoiled and amazingly beautiful. Okay, so not all roads are paved, food is fairly basic and lacking ambiance, accommodations make one doubt the star system and every castle, ruin, church and any other place we visited was situated on top of the highest mountains, necessitating hiking up steep slopes like a bunch of geriatric snails. Yes, we were all of a certain age and amazed ourselves every time we got to the top.

(Albania is still a place that "has not quite caught up with the world," something Shalhevet is happy to report)

If you love nature, green forests and snow-capped mountains, blue sea, sunsets that boggle the mind, gushing water, waterfalls, interesting history and a place that still has not quite caught up with the world, this is where you want to go....just do not look at the filth on the side of the roads, and carry lots of tissues!!!! Knowing Italian or Russian also helps.

We loved it and are planning, G-d willing, another trip with the "Breeza" tour company to either Georgia/Armenia or Tunis in the coming year....after a family/friends visit to Boston, Washington and Philadelphia this fall and my yearly fix of Beijing,." where Yosi represented Israel for a number of years.

Leaving Israel for Tirana Early in the Morning

Very early on the morning of May 10, described in novels as the dark hours of the morning, we met our fellow travelers at Ben Gurion Airport near Tel Aviv, boarded a flight to Vienna, changed planes and arrived in Tirana early afternoon, met our guides, Dorit from Israel and David from Albania, boarded our bus and were off to Berat where we were to spend the first night.

Although Albania is a small country in area, distances are meaningless. The narrow roads meander up and down and around the mountain sides. It always takes a long time to go from "here to there." Sitting on our bus looking at the scenery passing by or closing our eyes in fear as a truck tried to maneuver past our bus on a road that seemed to be impossibly narrow for this to happen without mishap took many hours of each day. And so the group became a family sharing lives and snacks and expectations.

Arriving at Berat, "City of One Thousand Windows"

Berat, a jewel, is one of the most ancient cities in Albania lying about 130 kilometers south of Tirana. The snowcapped Tomorr Mountain in the background added to the beauty. It was here that we visited the fortress area high in the sky, where two hundred families still live and got our first taste of climbing the roads.

(Homes dot the hillside of the ancient city of Berat, 130 kilometers south of Tirana)

Mind boggling… filled with history…beauty wherever the eye wanders. It was the perfect beginning of our visit. I personally was willing to stay here for the ten days and let the group go on. Deciding to be a good sheep and not the black sheep, I duly followed the flock down to the city, past churches, mosques, interesting people and homes to the riverside, where we saw why this city is also known as the "city of one thousand windows."

The second and third nights found us in the beautiful seaside town of Saranda in southern Albania. To get there we had to go through the city of Gjirokastra, which is considered the oldest and most beautiful city in Albania and known as the city of a thousand steps.

(This volleyball net could be anywhere in the world, but it is seen on the beach in Saranda, southern Albania, waiting for players)

We climbed every one of them and the views were heavenly. Then we were on our way to the coast. What can beat waking up in the morning to the blue water of the Adriatic? Saranda is an open gulf just opposite the Island of Corfu. Two kilometers from town situated high above the sea is the Castle of Lekursit, where we arrived in time for sunset. We were literally in heaven.

Visiting the Archaeological Center of Butrint

Dinner that evening was in the castle (more about food later). Using Saranda as a base, we visited the archaeological center of Butrint located on a peninsula between the strait of Corfu and Butrinti Lake. The ruins set in a beautiful natural setting of woods and water became alive through the explanations of our guides and our long walk from site to site. I must also mention that through the daily talks by our guide, David, who with passion took us through the history and culture of his homeland and whose love for his country is boundless, Albania became a personal reality.

(A lone sunbather enjoys the Albanian "Riviera")

David's stories and enthusiasm made me want to be an Albanian, too. Dorit, our Israeli guide, translated and added from her own vast knowledge of the country more facts and stories. But more than this her enthusiasm and spirit made us look forward to each adventure with glee.

Vlora, Where Albania Proclaimed Independence

The fourth night found us moving north and settling into the city of Vlora, which is where Albania was first proclaimed an independent state on November 28, 1912 and the first national government,headed by Ismail Quemali, was formed.

Vlora is a bustling city filled with history. It is here that we visited the Mosque of Muradie, the monument of Independence and a lovely museum showing the history and ethnographic highlights of this area.

(Friends in the countryside of Albania)

It was here that we also learned about the legendary Ali Pasha as we wended our way down the more than 150 kilometers of the Ionian coast with its ruggedly dramatic steep roads and backdrops, yielding splendid views of the sea and magnificent beaches. It is truly classic Mediterranean beauty.

Half way through our trip brought us to the capital city of Albania; to get there we drove thorough Durres, where we saw the largest Roman amphitheater in the Balkans. We unfortunately only got to spend one night in Tirana. Until now we had been totally immersed in nature, surrounded by the greens of the forests and the blues of the lakes and the sea.

(Tirana, the Albanian capital, is a bustling metropolitan area with vividly-painted buildings)

Now our eyes were treated to the riot of colors of the vividly-painted buildings of a bustling metropolitan area filled with people, traffic, and back streets, museums, shops and restaurants that begged to be visited.

Alas no time and the compromise of being on an organized tour once again sank in. What we did have time for was a walk on the Boulevard Deshmoret e Kombit off Scanderbeg Square, where our hotel was located and featuring all the government buildings, a memorial to Mother Theresa, charming Rinia Park and museums.

(Two ladies enjoy an outing in the park)

We entered a magnificent mosque, where we ladies were quickly ushered to the women's balcony followed by a fast look-see of the "Block," a former Soviet Party stronghold and now a posh residential and shopping area, watching the sun set on the colorful city from a revolving coffee bar restaurant in a tall building and going to a typical Albanian restaurant.

By Bus to the Beguiling Town of Kruja

Morning was spent in National History Museum. My dream of visiting the Fine Arts Museum was crushed by the time factor. Reluctantly, I climbed on the bus with my new extended family to continue north to the beguiling town of Kruja.

(A merchant offers colorful goods in a Kruja marketplace)

The uphill walk to the 6th-century fortress was made much easier by the unfolding panorama of the rooftops and scenery that changed with every bend in the road and the two charming museums we visited on top. As further compensation we had time to tour the famous Bazaar of Kruja, where one can buy traditional handcrafts.

(Shalhevet photographed these "nifty teenagers," who seem like teenagers you would find anywhere)

At last some of my fellow travelers relaxed with the opportunity to part with their money and take-home gifts to friends and family. I had a great cup of coffee and got to meet some nifty teenagers who wanted to practice their really fluent English. But it was soon time to get back on the bus and continue on to Shkoder, where we were to spend the night and awake at the crack of dawn in order to get on the ferry that would take us to Fierze, so that we could cross the border into Kosovo and spend the next two nights.

Refugee Camps from the War in Kosovo

But before we could relax, we visited a very blue and dazzling Shkoder Lake and witnessed some of the refugee camps from the war in Kosovo. And we just had to do another almost vertical climb. This time we slowly made our way to the top of the very steep hill overlooking the town to the magnificent Rozafa Fortress. It was definitely worth the effort. The fortress is filled with a beautiful statue of Rozafa nursing her baby and the local legend dedicated to the poignant story of the young woman.

According to legend, three brothers were building the walls of the fortress but discovered that everything they constructed collapsed during the night. An old seer told them that in order to succeed in building the walls they must make a human sacrifice. And so the brothers agreed to sacrifice which ever of their wives brought them their lunch the next day.

(Two friends converse at a cafe table in Tirana)

The two older brothers warned their wives so that lunch was brought by the wife of the youngest brother. The young woman Rosafa agreed to be immured within the walls, but only on the condition that holes be made through which she could feed her infant child. This was done, the walls were successfully constructed and the fortress stands till today. And it is said that until today milky water flows from a spring within the walls of the fortress and that it flows from the breast of the entombed young mother, Rosafa.

The golden glow of sunset added to the magic of the surroundings and the three rivers below, the Buna, Kiri and Drini flowing into the Adriatic.

It felt like the middle of the night. After four hours sleep we had to awake, shower, eat a hasty breakfast, get on two smaller mini-buses since the ferry would not accommodate our beloved big comfortable bus, and make haste for the ferry mooring, so that we could get in line and be assured of a place for all 24 of us and the buses for the sailing.

(The ferry boat makes its way from the pier)

The pier was a wonderful experience. I got to talk to locals at last (did I ever mention how well I speak body language since the only real words I managed to learn in Albanian were thank you, bottoms up, very, very important even for a tee toddler like me, yes, no, how much does it cost…needed for buying fresh yogurt at the grocery store on my own in order to preserve my independence and good morning and good night.).

And so as cars, trucks and buses jockeyed for position and families impatiently waited the ferry to unload its incoming passengers so they could climb aboard and get good places to sit on the top deck, I had yet another coffee with my new-found friends in the café and even managed to introduce them to my "old-found" tour friends who were curious about them.

The Ferry Was a Lot of Fun

The ferry was actually fun. Lots of children, grandmothers and characters for me to photograph, an American tourist who needed help with his camera , a cool breeze, and again the vibrant greens of the woods and blues of the water of Albania.

We disembarked in a most unorderly fashion, boarded our bus and made way for the town of Bajram Curri, where we finally had the opportunity to walk a bit on our own and explore, find a place for lunch, and make some connections with the open and charming people of this typical northern town.

(For Yosi, center, the visit to Bajram Curri was a chance to meet some friendly youngsters)

Then on to cross the border into Kosovo, where we spent the next two nights in the city of Pec by default (It was, believe it or not, the closest place the tour company managed to find a hotel large enough to accommodate our entire group). The downside was that it involved many more hours than we bargained for sitting on our bus, traveling on the same roads back and forth in and out of Albania to continue our tour.

Kosovo Takes on Great Importance

Was it worth it….yes. No, perhaps…a mélange of emotions? The most personally important moment of the entire trip took place for me in Kosovo. We stopped to visit a small memorial cemetery, where an International ceremony headed by former U.S. President Jimmy Carter had taken place several days earlier in honor of the Albanians of the area who had been murdered during war. There were heaps of flowers on the graves, creating a riot of happy colors in such a sad place. Near one of the markers stood a woman in black.

(Shalhevet consols a woman at a Kosovo cemetary)

Elesheva, a woman on the tour with whom I became quite friendly, went over to her. I, too, walked toward the woman who had tears in her eyes for her dead brother, and before I knew it we were two women silently hugging one another in consolation for the tragedy of war. It is a moment that will be forever engraved in my memory and perhaps what I will remember most from the entire trip.

Valbona is the birthplace of the owner of the company that partners with the company in Israel which organized the tour. Akim was so excited to personally escort us to this paradise of beauty located in the Albanian Alps.

It was almost worth the four-hour drive in each direction and the border crossing two more times. We boarded our baby buses early and started our ascent to what has to be one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. The ride took us through narrow canyons, where gushing streamed flowed in a riot of white foam and blue pools, trees and flowers abounded, snow-capped mountains captured our eyes and everyone we passed had to stop us to say hello to Akim.

(Albania's mountainous terrain offers an unsurpassed beauty)

We stopped to stretch our legs more than once,exploring a bit before reboarding our buses and continuing the almost vertical climb on one of the narrowest roads I have ever traveled. We even stopped at a tiny little shop along the way to say hello to Akim's best friend,and I was treated to a cup of steaming coffee and a bit of "family history." It was at this point that I asked Akim how he could ever have left all this peace and quiet of this almost totally isolated valley for life in the city. But we know the answer. He will retire here one day.

We were greeted with typical music of the area, a feast of the foods served to special guests, a folk dancing performance led by a ballet master who also comes from this region, and an incipient rain storm that did not deter us at all. Mesmerized by the beauty of the setting, all the dancing and food, it was difficult to accept the fact that we once again had to board our baby buses and return to the real world.

(A mosque is illuminated against the night sky in Tirana)

The ride back was quiet. I for one was fantasizing about living in this perfect place almost untouched physically by the modern world, where one could awake each morning to the sounds of mountain streams and a skyline filled with the majesty of the green forests and snow-capped mountains.

The last two nights were spent in Montenegro: the first in the mountain nature reserve of Zabliak and the next in the seaside town of Budva. Writing about this will fill another five pages, so it will just have to wait for another time. Montenegro is so stunningly beautiful that it takes your breath away. Just go there and see for yourself. On May 21 we returned to Israel…exhausted from our non-stop schedule and already planning our next adventure abroad.

Some Interesting Observations

Bunkers: There are millions of concrete bunkers dotting the landscape of Albania as a result of the ruler Hoya during the Communist regime who built one for every young man reaching the age of eighteen to defend against invaders. For some reason tourists go nuts over these relics of an Albania that was cut off from the world and have the need to take endless photographs of the bunkers.

The People: Outgoing, helpful friendly and easily approachable. I wish that I had more time to make contact with individuals and talk. The young people like young people everywhere are open, fashionable, and full of life, fun and speak great English.

(Shalhevet, a vegetarian, found the food in Albania much to her liking)

Food: Because we were in an organized tour and most meals were included I did not have the opportunity to wander and sample all those little interesting places that add to the authentic flavor of a trip. What is Albanian food? Well, it seems that it depends on what your ethnic background is, but perhaps it is safe to say that it is combination of Balkan and Greek with much Italian influence.

As a vegetarian, I must give high marks to some of the best tomatoes and cucumbers I have eaten in a decade, great home-made yogurts, boreks, filled and covered with baked dough, or served as a flat stuffed pancake (I always chose my favorite, spinach and salty white cheese) and believe it or not, French Fries to die for (there is not a fast food chain in sight and so the potatoes are cut and prepared fresh upon ordering).

(Yum, a tasty Albanian borek)

There is souvlaki, which is cut bits of meat roasted on a spit served in a flat bread like a wrap with yogurt, vegetables, salad and sauces, and if you leave the meat out it is also great, lots of fish, pasta grilled meats and chicken and fresh vegetable and salads that leave you craving for more. And we must thank Italy for the abundance of fantastic coffee.

Trooping into Little Grocery Shops

On the days that we had time we would all troop into the little grocery shops and buy things for picnic lunches getting to taste the local produce and products sharing with one another which added to the camaraderie of the group. Dinners were huge with Dorit our Israeli guide going more than out of her way as she did with everything to cater to the whims of 24 people.

(Shopping for food afforded a chance to taste local produce and products)

Would I have planned the itinerary differently? Yes. Less time sitting on the bus, more time to wander and explore, perhaps all ten days in Albania proper at a bit slower pace, more folklore and culture. Do I have any complaints about the trip? No. Even the difficulties here and there turned into adventures and became the subject of anecdotes that we will be able to tell to others over the years.

Here I must also add once again a few more words about our enthusiastic, intelligent, beautiful guide, Dorit, whose patience is legendary, whose concern make her the epitomy of a "Jewish Mother" and who made this a memorable experience and convinced me that I could go on an organized tour and have a great time. Thank you, Dorit!

The trip to Albania was arranged by www.breeza.co.il.